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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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foggydogg
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?

Post by foggydogg »

Did combat with the torque rod bushing, 9434263. After intense negotiations, and finishing with the Large Hammer, it yielded.
IMG_0097.JPG
IMG_0097.JPG (272.97 KiB) Viewed 431 times
And the warning Robert sent out some time ago still holds true; the Meyle bushing is too small, and rattles around in the bracket.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
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Post by scot850 »

Did you rotate it 10 degrees forward as recommended by Volvo!?? :D :lol: :lol:

Neil.
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Ocelot
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Post by Ocelot »

So yesterday, in the blistering heat, I changed the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner and "looprol" (don't know what that part is called in English). Everything went smooth, cars runs like a charm. There's this thing however, that bothers me. What is the actual interval? I've got a Haynes manual suggesting 120.000 kilometers or 8 years. I've got a Volvo dealer that suggests 165.000 kilometers or 10 years. And when I searched MVS, I even came across someone mentioning 75.000 kilometers or 5 years. Okay... :-)

My S70 has a 2.5 liter, 10 valve engine from august 1998. Enginecode B5252S. If someone would shed some light on this, I'd be very greatfull!
'Hij die zonder zonde is, werpe de eerste steen. Ik buk wel'. Simon Carmiggelt

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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

Ocelot wrote: 15 Aug 2022, 01:20 So yesterday, in the blistering heat, I changed the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner and "looprol" (don't know what that part is called in English). Everything went smooth, cars runs like a charm. There's this thing however, that bothers me. What is the actual interval? I've got a Haynes manual suggesting 120.000 kilometers or 8 years. I've got a Volvo dealer that suggests 165.000 kilometers or 10 years. And when I searched MVS, I even came across someone mentioning 75.000 kilometers or 5 years. Okay... :-)

My S70 has a 2.5 liter, 10 valve engine from august 1998. Enginecode B5252S. If someone would shed some light on this, I'd be very greatfull!
I have always thought 70,000 miles was prudent for our 20 valve motors ( around 115,000 km ? ), but I don't have an owners manual with me at the moment. Given the relatively small price for the parts, and the large price for a disaster, it probably isn't worth the wager on going more than ten years. The Volvo dealer is presuming Volvo Blue Box parts are used; your 10 valve non-turbo motor may be a bit gentler on the valve train.
Stay hydrated in the Tropical weather that has descended over you now, fall is coming.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

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bmdubya1198
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

Ocelot wrote: 15 Aug 2022, 01:20 So yesterday, in the blistering heat, I changed the timing belt, waterpump, tensioner and "looprol" (don't know what that part is called in English). Everything went smooth, cars runs like a charm. There's this thing however, that bothers me. What is the actual interval? I've got a Haynes manual suggesting 120.000 kilometers or 8 years. I've got a Volvo dealer that suggests 165.000 kilometers or 10 years. And when I searched MVS, I even came across someone mentioning 75.000 kilometers or 5 years. Okay... :-)

My S70 has a 2.5 liter, 10 valve engine from august 1998. Enginecode B5252S. If someone would shed some light on this, I'd be very greatfull!
75,000 KM seems too soon, 75,000 miles is a little more realistic. That was the initial recommendation on earlier cars, however the later cars (1999-2000) recommend either 100k or 120k miles (160k KM) or 10 years.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Time to look in the Service interval section in the manual. We don’t get the 10 valve car in the lower 50 provinces, the change from 75,000 miles to 105,000 miles intervals happened in mid 1998 with the change from hydraulic to mechanical tensioner
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454cid
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Post by 454cid »

abscate wrote: 16 Aug 2022, 00:07 Time to look in the Service interval section in the manual. We don’t get the 10 valve car in the lower 50 provinces, the change from 75,000 miles to 105,000 miles intervals happened in mid 1998 with the change from hydraulic to mechanical tensioner
Ah, so that's the difference. I have not had the mechanical part in hand, but from pictures/video describing how to adjust it, I've been glad not to have it. The hydraulic seems to work fine to me. In fact, the original I removed from my car seems to be in decent shape still.

I assume you've had both abscate, do you have a preference?
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bmdubya1198
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

The hydraulic tensioner seems to last longer too, which is why I find it interesting that Volvo extended the service interval with the mechanical tensioner. The pulley itself should be changed every timing belt service, but the hydraulic ram tends to go forever unless it's leaking.
00 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 214k
07 XC90 V8 AWD Sport Titanium Grey/Black 220k
92 245 White/Beige 249k
91 944 Turbo 175k
…and a bunch of other stuff
Sold-
03 S60 2.4T
00 S70 GLT
98 V70 GLT
93 944
98 S90
95 850 GLT
01 S60 2.4T
05 S60R M66
08 S40 2.4i
88 744 Turbo M46

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

454cid wrote: 16 Aug 2022, 07:31
abscate wrote: 16 Aug 2022, 00:07 Time to look in the Service interval section in the manual. We don’t get the 10 valve car in the lower 50 provinces, the change from 75,000 miles to 105,000 miles intervals happened in mid 1998 with the change from hydraulic to mechanical tensioner
Ah, so that's the difference. I have not had the mechanical part in hand, but from pictures/video describing how to adjust it, I've been glad not to have it. The hydraulic seems to work fine to me. In fact, the original I removed from my car seems to be in decent shape still.

I assume you've had both abscate, do you have a preference?
I prefer... the one that fits on the car. Its not a choice we make, the block is machined with holes for one or the other, at a chassis break.

It might be the temperature compensation on the mechanical allows a better set on the tension leading to the longer service life - or it might just be that the data supported a longer life. I would guess the latter. I ran my own experiment running my RN to 140k/ 14 years on its original belt, idler, pulley, and tensioner. :o
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Goupil
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Post by Goupil »

I'd rather have the hydraulic tensioner, purely because it takes 0 thinking to install :D the mechanical one is a bit fidly
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