What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[- Pete -]

No lever problems prior to engine replacement.

See second part of my last post.

Could be as simple as it being pinched under radiator support, that black flat metal bar under which your hood latches & horns are mounted to. The cable snakes it’s way back on the drivers side, several places it could be pinched. Gonna have to investigate Go Go Gadget.

One very cold winter I could not open OR fully close the hood on our dirty Volvo. We had no garage or place I could work on it & was too cold outside to work on it anyhow. Went several months with it just in the “safety latch” position.

[Mike Langlois]

Took the 2002 V 70 X/C in for a smog check; second time, as the computer had not reset. After putting 70 miles on the car, the ODB computer still had not re-set. I guess I'll drive around and try again.. as soon as I fix the A/C.

[abscate]

Keep it under 60 mph, easy in LA, and don't use AC.

P2s usually aren't as picky asP80s though

[GlennG2759]

Did my first Volvo timing belt,idler, tensioner replacement on my '06 V70 at 101,600 miles. Not as bad a job as I expected, but damn, those cam sprocket marks (lines) are small. There were some other marks (a dot and a makers mark) that had me going, but all went well, new accessory belt, buttoned everything and took her out for 40 mile highway run and ran good. Thanks to all who posted info on this job "Couldnt have done it without ya".

[abscate]

That’s a $500-700 job locally. Take the rest of the week off, and have a Swedish meatball

[a3inverter]

Nice work Glenn!

[GlennG2759]

Thank you a3inverter for the tip with the x-long T40 for t-stat housing on PCV job, made the job go smoothly.

[- Pete -]

Congratulations Glenn. Got yer cherry popped!

That's a daunting task the first time 'round. Great job on it. First time I did it I had codes upon restart. Thankfully there's a 3ish tooth variance for fudging.
Really freaks you out the first time you hit the key.



Finally got around to relocating boost/vacuum gauges. FYI, they DO fit in the little "toothpick/cigarette/tampon etc" pocket left of the radio. Just gotta shove them in there. It's no beauty contest winner. I ended up hating having a gauge on the dash, pod or podless (ie 2-sided tape), the light it gives off at night is just too close to your field of vision. With it at the top of the "toothpick" pocket you get to see your boost/vacuum activity, doesn't impede on your front visuals, and doesn't take away your pocket completely. I see Ortiz Bros make a gauge inset for this pocket, but if I'm gonna pay $75 or whatever it is and then wait 2 months to get it, I'll just get my cheap drill bits out and punch a hole & use what I got for free.

Also, the IPD gauge isn't worth it (R or non). It looks appealing, but after having run one for several weeks I actually like my cheap ebay one that came with a pod and all needed tubing etc for $14. The IPD gauge's "action" is noticeably "notchy" as the needle climbs/descends. The other thing that bugs me is between 1-5, 5-10, 10-15 etc, there aren't an appropriate number of dashes, hashes, whatever you want to call them. In every increment of 5, there should be no less than 4 dashes/hashes so at a glance you know exactly where you are at. With the IPD gauge there are 3 See pic & you'll get it.

It drives me nuts, but the gauge is nice to look at. Good wife joke setup there

[E Showell]

OK, so here's the latest after engine replacement. Over the engine charge pipe replaced with Erie VoVo supplied unit from a T5 (black, not silver -- no biggie, but no hole in it). Steering column baffle position checked and adjusted as necessary. Fuel injectors swapped over from old to replacement engine. Could wastegate position on replacement engine be giving me the whooshing sound if not properly adjusted?

I haven't driven it yet since the above-noted adjustments were made. Forgot to ask about the hood release cable.

[matthew1]

The other thing that bugs me is between 1-5, 5-10, 10-15 etc, there aren't an appropriate number of dashes, hashes, whatever you want to call them. In every increment of 5, there should be no less than 4 dashes/hashes so at a glance you know exactly where you are at. With the IPD gauge there are 3 See pic & you'll get it.

Whoa. My iPD gauge had proper markings. The problem with those is that you couldn't see them Boost gauge install

I didn't notice any notchy action.

Like you, I struggled with placement. Headliner, A-pillar, instrument cluster... I tried them all.