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98 V70 non turbo Oil Pump Replacement - need some help

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
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98v70dad
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Re: 98 V70 non turbo Oil Pump Replacement - need some help

Post by 98v70dad »

erikv11 wrote: 01 Jan 2018, 09:30 TCM (from any P80) and ECM (from an NA) are almost completely worthless, don't bother with those. Remember, the problem is never the ECU ... But turbo ECU's have a market because they are so easy to tune.

How the scrap yard works, when the vehicle gets to their location, they weigh it and give you the value on the spot. There's no way to fool them. You just take what you want from it, then get rid of it. If you have them pick up the car, you will pay for that. I doubt any yard will do that for free, certainly not around here. I've scrapped two of them recently, scrap value was about $250 and I shelled out another $50 to have it pulled onto a flatbed and towed across town (very short distance so low towing expense).
Well, yeah. I'm not trying to fool them. It was just suggested to me that I could pull some stuff right before the tow came and that didn't make sense to me. Maybe the comment was made because I said the neighborhood association wouldn't put up with a non-running car with no tires/wheels in the driveway. I still don't see how they'll load a car with no wheels onto a flatbed (even if its the tilt type) without tearing the crap out of my driveway. How do they do that- I'm guessing that they dont? I have a nice new concrete driveway and scarring it up won't be repairable.

The $500 scrap figure people have been throwing around seems way high. There may $500 in scrap materials in the car but the scrap yard is going to pay you less than that. I got a quote for 150 with a free tow yesterday. That seemed low but within the realm of reason.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

150 per ton up here. Use AAA to tow to yard

:-)

Harvest battery , cat, easy parts
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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

The $500 scrap figure people have been throwing around seems way high.

High as scrap but not as used parts.
There maybe $500 worth of used parts in it, if you want to go through the trouble of finding buyers.

Harvest battery , cat, easy parts.

Here in the U.S.A, it is illegal to sell a use cat, unless you are in the recycling chain.
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

$150 including tow is on the mark, yes, there is very little scrap value. If you are really curious then call them up and find out how manny pennies they are giving per round right now. It won't be very many.

If the car has no wheels they will just drag it across the concrete onto a tilt flatbed, you've got that right too. The front end of the vehicle can usually start out on the ramp so it won't get dragged, but the rear gets dragged for sure. I have been told you can use those harbor freight furniture dollies as rollers at the rear, but never tried it. The cars I disposed of had wheels on the rear only. I had pulled the front axles and had the car on blocks when the flatbed arrived, with a couple of those factory undersize spares on the rear. Or you might be able to find steel wheels for very cheap, however that is a CL crap shoot and that always sucks up time. The car I have in the back of the house now (alley access) has no rear trailing arms, I used them when my 850 wagon got hit last year, so this spring it will be a challenge to get rid of it without scarring the concrete.

Harvest the cat if you want to sell it yourself to a metal recycler, where you can get up to $100 for these large Euro cats depending on current rates. But if you leave it on the car you only get the per pound price.
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Post by cn90 »

In my area, the Pick-and-Pull places buy the 3500-lb for about $450 or so. They go by the tons (I forget but it is about $125/ton or something like that).

Condition of the car is not too relevant for them as they let the car sit on the lot for about 2-3 months. During that time, people come and pick whatever they want: a radio here, a door there (door sells for $60), a hood there etc.

Avoid the junk yard that takes the car straight to the crushing machine: that kind of jy pays the least. The jy that keeps cars for months so people can pick the parts pays more for obvious reasons.

So, you can see that jy makes some money selling parts before sending it to the crusher.

PS: If you are worried about driveway damage, then push the car to some place else, near the end of the driveway or a cul-de-sac (LOL), put a piece of plywood under it. Then remove the wheels/tires. Then tow it away, sliding on plywood.
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98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

cn90 wrote: 01 Jan 2018, 12:53
PS: If you are worried about driveway damage, then push the car to some place else, near the end of the driveway or a cul-de-sac (LOL), put a piece of plywood under it. Then remove the wheels/tires. Then tow it away, sliding on plywood.
I can push it off the end of the driveway by about 5 feet and put it up on blocks in the back yard area to save the driveway scarring. Its also far enough back that the neighborhood association probably wont give me any grief for many months. Plywood is a good idea.

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

erikv11 wrote: 01 Jan 2018, 12:20 $150 including tow is on the mark, yes, there is very little scrap value. If you are really curious then call them up and find out how manny pennies they are giving per round right now. It won't be very many.

If the car has no wheels they will just drag it across the concrete onto a tilt flatbed, you've got that right too. The front end of the vehicle can usually start out on the ramp so it won't get dragged, but the rear gets dragged for sure. I have been told you can use those harbor freight furniture dollies as rollers at the rear, but never tried it. The cars I disposed of had wheels on the rear only. I had pulled the front axles and had the car on blocks when the flatbed arrived, with a couple of those factory undersize spares on the rear. Or you might be able to find steel wheels for very cheap, however that is a CL crap shoot and that always sucks up time. The car I have in the back of the house now (alley access) has no rear trailing arms, I used them when my 850 wagon got hit last year, so this spring it will be a challenge to get rid of it without scarring the concrete.

Harvest the cat if you want to sell it yourself to a metal recycler, where you can get up to $100 for these large Euro cats depending on current rates. But if you leave it on the car you only get the per pound price.
Thanks. Today I took a few hours and did an ebay search on parts on sale for a used 98 V70 automatic non turbo. I started a spreadsheet using roughly average prices or below and so far the tally is about $3500. I only included stuff that is easy to get off - I've got other stuff to do. I don't think that everything would sell quickly but the good thing is that most of it wouldn't take up much room so when it sells it sells. Whenever I replaced anything on the car I put in OE parts and saved the original if it was still serviceable. I have lots of OE dealer parts with only about 2 years of use on them plus many original used OE parts that were serviceable when I removed them.

When I get around to it I'll give the matthewsvolvo site community first shot in the for sale section and stuff that doesn't sell will go on ebay. If I decide to go ahead with a parting out I'll donate a percentage back to the website after I reach a threshold sales number. Also, I'll donate some funds to Rspi's helping tour since I offered to give him some of my use parts next time he came through Atlanta. I'm thinking cash is at least as good as used volvo parts.

I'm considering that approach - parting out the easy stuff and selling the hulk for scrap. My plans may change but if I could get 3500 out of the car (optimistic - not likely) I actually drove it for 10 years almost free.

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