No Sparks... No Idea what to do... Topic is solved

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 14 Jul 2018, 07:35

No spark testing coil by itself. You need a new coil.

One last test to make sure you did everything correctly. Make sure both positive and negative connections are removed from coil. Take a piece of wire and short the 2 coil terminals together for a second. This makes sure all voltage is drained from the coil. Put ohm meter across 2 terminals. If you get a high number (ie. 1kohm or greater), coil is fried and that is why there is no spark). If this test passes, coil can still be bad. Spark test is definitive, just was hoping for 2nd confirmation.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Jul 2018, 08:03

Are there any more Volvo coils at your junkyard? PM me if you need one.

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 14 Jul 2018, 20:03

Okay so here's how everything went down today. This morning we took the coil and headed to the junkyard. We went there, exchanged it, and while we were there, I pulled off a Throttle Position Sensor, and also one of those grey relays (not even sure what they do... oh well). Then we came home, hooked them up, and cranked him up. We got some signs of life. It was struggling, and smoke started coming out of the camshaft position sensor...

Then my dad noticed that the one that was originally in the car, and the one that we swapped out with it, were slightly different. So we went back to the junkyard, and grabbed one that looked more like ours. (Oddly, it came out of a Turbo 850... And mines doesn't have a Turbo... science?) Anyways we brought that guy home and threw him in. Then she started properly.

So that's how I did it. I replaced the Ignition coil, the Throttle Position Sensor, and some relay. And then the camshaft sensor. Which one was bad? I don't know, and I don't plan on finding out. As long as it starts.

But there's still one more problem. It cranks for about 3-4 seconds before it starts up. After starting, it will rev at about 2k for a few seconds. After that, everything's back to normal. (better than the normal I'm used to, if I say so myself...

)

What do I do now?

Dmck · Post by **Dmck** » 14 Jul 2018, 22:44

Congrats on getting the car going.

The high rev could be a lot of things.. but I would guess it's your cars air fuel mix trying to find a balance.

That could be a vacuum leak
Idle air control valve
Thottle position sensor
Fuel leak creating an air pocket in the fuel line
Bad purge can/valve

Dmck · Post by **Dmck** » 14 Jul 2018, 23:23

Also since now you have the car running do the pvc glove test. You can use a piece of plastic bag too.

Take off oil cap and stick glove on it sealed around the the lip where the oil cap rests and see if it inflates

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 15 Jul 2018, 05:14

Dmck wrote: 14 Jul 2018, 23:23 Also since now you have the car running do the pvc glove test. You can use a piece of plastic bag too.

Take off oil cap and stick glove on it sealed around the the lip where the oil cap rests and see if it inflates

It sucks it in, yayy!

Post by **abscate** » 15 Jul 2018, 05:21

You revel in solving your first Big problem and saving yourself about $1000 in diagnostics Labour and parts that a tech would have thrown at the car. We are proud of you here,too. Dad is too, but’s might not let on as much as we do.

Stage zero is the process of getting an old car to its proper running state,so start a thread with your year model make and some pictures, and let’s get it done.

Fluid changes

Evaluate brakes

ATF drain and fills

Cooling group hoses

Vacuum hoses, IAC hoses...I really can’t say too much about these. Many, many hours/ dollars are wasted on old Volvo’s with 23 year old rubber hoses that have failed in dark corners of the engine causing running problems that Can avoided by replacing these proactively

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 15 Jul 2018, 05:53

abscate wrote: 15 Jul 2018, 05:21 You revel in solving your first Big problem and saving yourself about $1000 in diagnostics Labour and parts that a tech would have thrown at the car. We are proud of you here,too. Dad is too, but’s might not let on as much as we do.

Oh yes... He definitely doesn't show it as much as I do

I've realized that working on cars is like playing a giant, real life version of Sudoku. Sometimes it gets very challenging, but that's part of the fun...

Post by **abscate** » 15 Jul 2018, 07:07

The real masters on this board...we have maybe four or five of them on this Board .....will play Car Soduku in about 60:seconds. The mastery is learning the diagnostic path, not the symptom path.

“My car feels like it loses power at speed, so I changed my fuel filter since people told me it’s plugged”

Frustration, expense , and anger follow.

The masters don’t replace anything until the let the symptoms guide them To root cause, then test the part, then replace. The experience they have let’s the: rule things out much faster than you and me.

Stumbling at speed, check fuel pressure to spec, it’s ok. It could be a fuel injector delivery problem, except masters know that those almost never fail. If you ask them to check the ECU,they will weld your toolbox shut and then throw it into the lake.

Sniperboy80123 · Post by **Sniperboy80123** » 28 Aug 2018, 18:24

So what was the problem after all