What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by **oragex** » 07 Jan 2018, 14:40

E Showell wrote: 03 Jan 2018, 06:04 How true. I am putting off changing cabin filter for the same reason. Those plastic bits don't need any encouragement to crumble in our hands.

I'll 3rd that indeed. Experiencing it at the scrapyard in a winter day, plenty of plastic pieces that are solid in warm weather, break so easily in freezing temps. Tried to remove the center console side trims, just a pull - two pieces! Wanted to look at the injectors but didn't had the torx socket, just pulled on the smaller top engine cover: two pieces! That place piece is quite solid in warm weather. Good to know.

Post by **oragex** » 07 Jan 2018, 15:43

Just replaced the cabin blower, the old one was getting noisy in cold weather. As you may know it's not a bad job the second time, but the first time it's quite a hassle to reach those rear screws (I've used a torx socket with the ratchet to reach it and tossed the floor carpet) and to pull the blower from there.

But if you think that was a hard-ish job, you may see if differently after watching this video showing how to remove the same poor quality blower that fails at low miles in cold climates on the P3 models.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Jan 2018, 17:33

P3....OMG!!

nickbw898 · Post by **nickbw898** » 17 Jan 2018, 11:37

: IMG_0134.jpg (21.29 KiB) Viewed 3380 times

Teach me to look at this excellent site at breakfast! Out and busy several times cross country about 30 miles. Parked up at home off loaded tools to garage and saw transmission fluid leaking (dripping) under front sole plate. So off with front bumper after engine bay inspection and inspected hoses attaching to external trans cooler mounted in front of climate condenser. Conclusion splitting hose on return side at hose clip. Simple fix but saved me loosing fluid. - I just flushed it again before Christmas.

Post by **oragex** » 20 Jan 2018, 04:59

Went on replacing the PCV box on my non turbo engine with 125K miles

Post by **cuhfs** » 21 Jan 2018, 13:33

2003 XC 70 AWD many many new parts.... Just did a leak down test on this car which I bought to restore after PO overheated it. I recently installed a new professionally rebuilt head on it. Car failed the leak down test which indicates bad bottom of engine. I never expected that... since usually a bad head gasket is all that is needed after an overheat. Now I am selling the car as I surrender. Just posted it for sale here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=84180&p=461166#p461166

Garaba · Post by **Garaba** » 22 Jan 2018, 09:24

I been steadily working on the Stage 0 replacements on the 1998 V70 XC I picked up. Got most of the electrical parts replaced, along with all the hoses for the turbo. I really want it to get above 60f soon so I can take the trim apart and install the Bluetooth grom into the stereo and run the wires for the headphone jack and microphone.

imaV70Rdriver · Post by **imaV70Rdriver** » 22 Jan 2018, 14:01

Excessive rear sidehop (side hop) and inner rear tire wear (after two sets of tires, and two alignments) necessitated finding the cause. Replaced "Rear Toe Control Arm To Hub Bushing" with (Powerflex PFR88-608B Viva $68.99) and "Rear Toe Control Arm Bushing Front" with (Powerflex PFR88-605B Viva $68.99), the black-hardest ones (indy shop (installation only), $200), installed new Conti Wintercontact SI tires 215/55R17 (a bit taller and skinnier than recommended, but no rubbing on stock springs, $118ea at TireRack), and got another alignment (Dealer $169).

What a huge difference! Previously, the car felt very unsettled in the rear over bumpy roads, almost floating around. For the first time in 5 years the butt end seems stable. The black bushings did not result in any noticeable ride harshness, actually the car feels smoother in the rear, probably due to the #5 bushing eliminating rear toe control arm movement. Hopefully the inner tire wear issue will be (somewhat) resolved. Rear toe is +0.04 deg left, and +0.07 right. Any thoughts or other suggestions?

Post by **Rattnalle** » 22 Jan 2018, 14:42

My last alignment protocol says +0,06 left and right so yours sound about right.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 23 Jan 2018, 19:26

Very fiddly and a PITA. My original mirror was 3/4 darkened and I have a vehicle inspection coming up.. I got a used mirror assembly from the parts yard, and removed the mirror - it was just clipped onto the PC board. I wish I had a chance to test it before I put it in, but I didn't know the operating voltage.

Of course, the PC boards cannot be swapped --- The deal with this job is this: That PC board is the heart of the security system. You have to keep it with the car- it can't be swapped because it is keyed to the rest of the security system. Mess it up and you are screwed and blued. If you don't disconnect the battery and give the car a few minutes, you can mess up the programming on the PC board. So be extra careful.

So I pulled the assembly out of my car, which involved removing the over light console and a couple of more connectors, plus a ground connector up by the windshield., at least, according to DIY youtube vids. Getting the fascia to release from the housing was a bit, but the use of a coupe of credit cards made the job tolerable. Work was going great until it came time to release the connector on the main PC board - nope, using a screwdriver through the small hole in the bottom wasn't working, but I managed to get enough slack on the harness to push the release from the inside. And out the PC board and mirror came. I desoldered the two red wire power leads and set about separating the mirror from the PC board. Which, on my 2001, was held on by double sided stick foam tape. A Real PITA and scary job, but using the two credit cards and a lot of patience, I separated the old mirror from its PC board. When I compared old and new PC boards, the old one had an extra assembly with a large coil on it, and a a board labelled ABS (?), while the replacement mirror had no foam and small clips on the edge. So no way to mount the ABS board. I had to cut away some of the plastic, which involved releasing a ribbon connector, which, if you are not careful can be put back in reversed. So if you do this, pay close attention. The replacement mirror also had two plastic alignment pins that go through the circuit board, that had to be cut off - the old mirror housing didn't have holes for the pins. What I should have done was used the replacement mirror housing, but it was not in as good a shape as my original. The new mirror clipped onto the original PC board, and I soldered the mirror power leads back in place. The rest of the job was very finicky making sure that everything lined up right and nothing was forced into place. Way too many plastic clips that could break off.

After reassembly, and hooking up the battery again, I held my breath, and the car started. And the remote worked, too. But the sunroof didn't operate and the push buttons on the light console did nothing, even though the overhead lights came on when the door was open. But, after a couple of restarts the sunroof switch and the lights started to working again. I guess the computer had to find them again. I think this job could be done without removing the overhead light console and the mirror housing. Just pop off the front mirror fascia, disconnect the PC board connector and the mirror and board assembly comes out. Bottom line is Volvo made small changes in the PC board and mirror housing that slow down the work, so check your original before you go parts hunting.