Expected maintenance at 200k miles

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » 26 May 2022, 20:07

With my 2004 xc70 reaching 197k miles, I'd like to know what maintenance can be expected down the road.
I'm also interested in how much life to be expected from the engine and transmission without major overhaul,
and maintenance items that can fail suddenly and leave me stranded.

I live in southern California, no rust problems, bolts are very easy to undo, and no electrical wiring issues either.
Car currently drives just fine, about 4000 miles annually, oil change probably once a year with FCP's liquid moly 5w40.

Since about 185k miles, I've replaced or serviced (a more detailed account at the end of the post):

transmission valve body,
oil pan gaskets, oil pump and gaskets,
timing and serpentine belt and pulley, water pump,
PCV, Nissens radiator, fuel sending unit (pump likely replaced at recall back then), struts, springs and spring seats, engine mounts, front rubber brake hose, blower motor, AC clutch reshim.

For beyond 200k, I've seem some on the forum:

VVT, valve stem seals, transmission internal filter clogging, parking brake shoe delamination.
And how long does the engine and transmission last without major overhaul? The valve stem seals and transmission filter are likely out of my comfort zone.

On the other hand, for buying used fwd p2 car with around 120k miles, southern California so rust free, can I expect them to be relatively trouble free after change the timing components, PCV, fuel pumps, radiator and suspension components? Asking since a friend is looking for a car, looking at around $3000~4000 for purchase price and maybe $2000~3000 to diy those services and then drive several years. Would appreciate opinion for or against this. We're considering this since I've already done most of those repairs, and my car have went past 180k without something major like oil pan job or transmission valve body.

Hope to get some ideas from this very helpful forum.

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More details on what I've done so far:

Transmission valve body with ACDelco GM ones, shifting is good with a small bump between 2-3 upshift and clunk into reverse, not very noticeable and my mechanic says not to worry about it.
I had a thread on this forum:
viewtopic.php?t=94052

Oil pan gaskets, oil pump and gaskets after flickering oil pressure light at idle after driving, now warm idle psi is 14.5 psi at idle, was 10psi before the work.
thread, with photo for oil pan condition:
viewtopic.php?t=96146

Timing and serpentine belt and pulleys, water pump, PCV, radiator
front and rear strut, springs and hardware, all engine mounts,
front rubber brake hoses, blower motor have been replaced.
Fuel sending unit replaced, the fuel pump should have been replaced under the recall since the car has always been in California, but not sure.

For things to expect, I've seen some on the forum, and would appreciate your input:

I've heard that the VVT hub and valve stem seals may need to be replaced at some point.
Is there any signs of these items or do they fail suddenly?
I did not check the play on the VVT hub when doing the timing belt job, unfortunately, though there seems to be a minor oil leak that accumulate on the passenger side subframe, next to the control arm. It's not dripping to the ground so I haven't dealt with that.
What about the rest of the engine, the crank bearings and such? It'd be bad to put in all those additional work just to find that perhaps an engine swap is around the corner.

For the transmission, vtl mentioned some mechanical wear that may apply to the symptom I described. There are also examples of clogged internal trans filter. Any signs that these problems are getting worse that can be monitored before complete failure? I drive timidly so hopefully not too hard on the transmission.

Heard that the parking brake shoes can delaminate and lock up the wheels. Are the other hardware, springs etc need to be changed? Cables? The parking brake still works currently.

How often does PCV need to be changed? I do a lot of short distance driving but the climate is warm.

The rest of the suspension components, like the control arm and ball joint may need to be replaced at some point.
The CV axles and boots are still ok at this points, as well as the wheel hubs.

The angle gear coupling has not failed yet, the driveshaft still couples (doesn't spin with car in park).

Will probably replace the subframe bushings at some point. Are the XC90 bushings better?

The alternator and starter could fail. I have found some <100k ones in junkyards. I think those items are relatively robust? Perhaps replace the regulator on the alternator?

I'm mostly concerned about the engine or transmission needing major overhaul, or something I'm not aware of can fail suddenly and get be stranded. Otherwise I think most items are not hard to work on or replace. Before I often read that those engines last a long time but seems like quite a few forum members are very handy with rebuilds, pulling the heads etc which is quite out of my comfort zone.

Post by **cn90** » 26 May 2022, 21:38

Best is to sell it. You can get $1500-$2000 for your car.

Then buy a low-mileage P2 with 100K miles or so, they are around $4000-$5000: more economical
this way bc your high-mileage vehicle will ask for a lot of dollars, labor at that mileage.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » 26 May 2022, 21:56

Thanks cn90, I have been keeping an eye on the market for those. So for something like 110k, 120k should be good for a while?

Anyone who know about the possible maintenances beyond 200k? As I'll still be driving this for a while before finding another one, would like to know if there is any sign that something expensive is going to happen. I do understand that cn90 would suggest selling it as a car that runs before it's completely toast.

Post by **abscate** » 26 May 2022, 23:16

4000 miles per year? You have another 10 years of life in that car before anything major. All of those issues you mention will give you 2 years warning before needing servicing if you keep up those service intervals.

I drove my noisy VVT for 20k miles before it coded , for example.

Reap the rewards of that car , keep it!

Oil leak probably a cam seal, not hard to do.

Do a series of three drain and fill of the ATF. See Gibbons method.

Post by **cn90** » 26 May 2022, 23:28

Back in 2018...
My 1998 S70 GLT blew the exhaust valve #3 at 189K miles.
I drove with fuel injector #3 disconnected for a while.
Then at 190K, the trans reverse feature is gone, I could only drive forward but not reverse.
Sold the car to the used car dealer for $400.
Traded it in for 2004 V70 with only 102K miles...so far so good.

I am done with 200K miles car, I am getting older (don't we all) and really not interested in major repair such as trans or engine work. I know how to do these repairs but not interested. I rather spend time with my family/kids.
So I am back to basic repair: oil change, brake, suspension etc. etc. but stay away from heavy duty stuff.

Trust me sell the car before it has no value.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » 26 May 2022, 23:32

abscate wrote: ↑26 May 2022, 23:16 4000 miles per year? You have another 10 years of life in that car before anything major. All of those issues you mention will give you 2 years warning before needing servicing if you keep up those service intervals.

I drove my noisy VVT for 20k miles before it coded , for example.

Reap the rewards of that car , keep it!

Oil leak probably a cam seal, not hard to do.

Do a series of three drain and fill of the ATF. See Gibbons method.

Thanks abscate. I saw some older threads where you and cn90 are at the two ends of the spectrum, and believe you both have your point.

Indeed I'd be satisfied if the car can make 250k. I'll drive around for now, while looking at the market at the same time.

So the VVT will first leak, then get noisy, then throw a code I suppose? And when the codes appear it needs to be changed? Only genuine part available? Anyway to prolong its life? I'll keep an eye on that.

What about other internal engine parts, like the valve stem seals that I saw in some other post? I suppose the rod bearings will show sign in oil pressure. If these things show up is it time for new engine or car? Or can they be remedied by e.g. accessing the rod bearing by pulling the oil pan? For the valve stem seals RobertDIY on Youtube recommends not to do it.

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » 26 May 2022, 23:40

cn90 wrote: ↑26 May 2022, 23:28 Back in 2018...
My 1998 S70 GLT blew the exhaust valve #3 at 189K miles.
I drove with fuel injector #3 disconnected for a while.
Then at 190K, the trans reverse feature is gone, I could only drive forward but not reverse.
Sold the car to the used car dealer for $400.
Traded it in for 2004 V70 with only 102K miles...so far so good.

I am done with 200K miles car, I am getting older (don't we all) and really not interested in major repair such as trans or engine work. I know how to do these repairs but not interested. I rather spend time with my family/kids.
So I am back to basic repair: oil change, brake, suspension etc. etc. but stay away from heavy duty stuff.

Trust me sell the car before it has no value.

Yeah I do see your point. I suppose these issues, the exhaust valve and loss of reverse, have no warnings? Otherwise you would have sold the car before that.

How long did it take you to find a 2004 V70 with 102k miles? They do popup in my area from time to time but not very often, and a lot of them look like some sort of title jumping.

Willber · Post by **Willber** » 27 May 2022, 00:10

The transmission is clunky on my 2003 V70 2. 4t with 160k miles on. It could be valve body or something more serious. Ive done lots of flushes to it and Lubegard.

It also smokes after long periods of strong engine braking (stem seals) but not enough to bother me.

With both of these issue i have no doubt it will plod on to 200k, its just whether I want to spend the money trying to make it better. Otherwise it is a good car and suspension has been overhauled.

I always said I would run it to 200k and see where to go from there. Only another 3 years to go!

arrrxivvv · Post by **arrrxivvv** » 27 May 2022, 00:30

Willber wrote: ↑27 May 2022, 00:10 The transmission is clunky on my 2003 V70 2. 4t with 160k miles on. It could be valve body or something more serious. Ive done lots of flushes to it and Lubegard.

It also smokes after long periods of strong engine braking (stem seals) but not enough to bother me.

With both of these issue i have no doubt it will plod on to 200k, its just whether I want to spend the money trying to make it better. Otherwise it is a good car and suspension has been overhauled.

I always said I would run it to 200k and see where to go from there. Only another 3 years to go!

Cool, I saw your post on the transmission, since mine is almost reaching 200k I'd assume you'd probably be fine.

I'm just curious about what internal engine work may surface past that. Hopefully the car still and I'll keep you posted.

Post by **abscate** » 27 May 2022, 00:36

arrrxivvv wrote: ↑26 May 2022, 23:32
abscate wrote: ↑26 May 2022, 23:16 4000 miles per year? You have another 10 years of life in that car before anything major. All of those issues you mention will give you 2 years warning before needing servicing if you keep up those service intervals.

I drove my noisy VVT for 20k miles before it coded , for example.

Reap the rewards of that car , keep it!

Oil leak probably a cam seal, not hard to do.

Do a series of three drain and fill of the ATF. See Gibbons method.
Thanks abscate. I saw some older threads where you and cn90 are at the two ends of the spectrum, and believe you both have your point.

Indeed I'd be satisfied if the car can make 250k. I'll drive around for now, while looking at the market at the same time.

So the VVT will first leak, then get noisy, then throw a code I suppose? And when the codes appear it needs to be changed? Only genuine part available? Anyway to prolong its life? I'll keep an eye on that.

What about other internal engine parts, like the valve stem seals that I saw in some other post? I suppose the rod bearings will show sign in oil pressure. If these things show up is it time for new engine or car? Or can they be remedied by e.g. accessing the rod bearing by pulling the oil pan? For the valve stem seals RobertDIY on Youtube recommends not to do it.

The cam seal leak and the VVT are probably unrelated. You can use a pick and pull part for the VVT instead of new.

Keep those with annual oil changes with quality stuff like you are using.

Bottom ends of these engines are really, really tough. By far, most go 500k miles without needing attention, unless you….

Clog up your intake with paper towels and idle it for 15 minutes without oil pressure…..I dropped the pan, replaced orings, resealed , and am still driving it.

The stem seals give you warning. That puff of smoke on startup is the telltale of oil leaking down. Eventually it will burn a valve so once you see that, it’s time. I’ve got two 250k smokers, one of them got the valve job last year, the other slated for this fall