Is there an affordable lower ball joint separator tool for a 2007 XC70?

AylmerQc · Post by **AylmerQc** » 05 Oct 2022, 16:03

While I struggle with an aforementioned fob issue with my 07 XC70, I thought I'd replace the ABS ring. I can't remove the splined shaft from the knuckle, it just won't budge so I thought I'd take the knuckle and shaft to a machine shop, or garage, but now I'm struggling with the lower ball joint. I've watched videos where they use a brass punch and a bit of prying, after removing the two bolts on the BJ flange but I'm not having any luck. Even loosening the lower BJ nut and using a jack to push up on the BJ threaded bolt doesn't free it from the control arm.
I do have a fork-type ball joint separator tool but it would more than likely damage the boot on the ball joint.
Do other types of separators work on this model car or does it need a specific OEM separator?

Addendum:
OK, I just saw a short video online in which the mechanic uses a modified S Hook, which might have saved me a lot of work. Maybe next time...

https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-6007-Lower-Co ... 3007&psc=1

Post by **br0dy519** » 05 Oct 2022, 18:22

If I’m understanding : You aren’t replacing the balljoint. All you need to do is pry the control arm down after removing the nut and it should pop out of the control arm. I like this video for demonstration.

Replacing the balljoint required me to clamp the knuckle to my bench. Then strike with a massive sledgehammer on a huge hardened chisel. I’m a big guy and I had to hit the thing a lot harder than I felt comfortable doing. I did the job last week. I had no issues prying the control arm down, but I had a 6 foot long pry that i wedged between the control arm and chassis and pushed like hell down. I found it a lot more difficult to get it seated back correctly. Need a helper to align it all and ensure axle sits right. Use a bungee on axle to spring to make sure it doesn’t flop down and free it from the hub first so when you pop the arm off the balljoint it doesnt pull the axle with it.

Post by **jonesg** » 06 Oct 2022, 09:14

AylmerQc wrote: ↑05 Oct 2022, 16:03 While I struggle with an aforementioned fob issue with my 07 XC70, I thought I'd replace the ABS ring. I can't remove the splined shaft from the knuckle, it just won't budge so I thought I'd take the knuckle and shaft to a machine shop, or garage, but now I'm struggling with the lower ball joint. I've watched videos where they use a brass punch and a bit of prying, after removing the two bolts on the BJ flange but I'm not having any luck. Even loosening the lower BJ nut and using a jack to push up on the BJ threaded bolt doesn't free it from the control arm.
I do have a fork-type ball joint separator tool but it would more than likely damage the boot on the ball joint.
Do other types of separators work on this model car or does it need a specific OEM separator?

drench the driveshaft with your favourite spray, front and back.
Drive the splined shaft out with a 3 lb mini sledge hammer and punch.
A 1/2 inch ratchet wrench extension is ideal as a punch.

then use a chisel and the same 3 lb hammer to drive the balljoint out.

: 20221006_103720.jpg (290.8 KiB) Viewed 934 times

AylmerQc · Post by **AylmerQc** » 11 Oct 2022, 17:58

OK. here's an update...
I managed to free up the lower ball joint from the control arm by spraying plenty of every penetrating spray I had, loosening up the "frozen" ball joint stem bolt by banging its housing in the control arm with a brass hammer and then hammering downwards with a 2-foot long steel rod and bigger brass hammer.
Nothing else worked, working from the front, no pry bar (I couldn't go underneath the car as in the video to get the leverage since the car is only about 10 inches off the ground), or even a 5-foot-long 20-pound iron bar with my full weight.

Pulling the axle out of the tranny ( after removing the 2 bolts and cap that hold it in place) I took the entire unit to a garage to have them press the axle out of the hub.
As soon as I showed it to them, and especially when I said it was from a Volvo, they warned me that the knuckle might break. I said let's try and sure enough, the knuckle broke while the shaft didn't even budge a millimeter.
So it was off to a Euro car auto recycler for a whole kit and caboodle axle, hub, knuckle, and ball joint.
All this started when I wanted to change the ABS rig on the passenger side.
Maybe I should have lived with it the way it was...

Post by **jonesg** » 11 Oct 2022, 19:38

Soak with penetrant, heat, soak, heat , soak etc etc.

I just did this, but mine wasn't stuck , swapped out the bearing and used anti seize when reassembling.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Oct 2022, 08:04

I know you said cheap but the ball joint takes about 7 seconds with an air hammer. A cheap one!

However that is most easily done after popping the axle out of the hub ...

Post by **br0dy519** » 12 Oct 2022, 09:03

I had no luck with an airhammer

albeit was my first time using one and on a terrible small 3gal compressor. User error most likely.

I’ve popped out probably 7 of these axles. Never had an issue like above. It’s humbling to hear about that, something else to watch for a try preventative measures.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Oct 2022, 10:58

It sounds like even though I am in the upper midwest, you all up north are dealing with next level corrosion compared to what I deal with.

AylmerQc · Post by **AylmerQc** » 12 Oct 2022, 19:56

I've just added a couple of links to my original post. There is a modified S hook type tool that I saw on a video and it might have saved me a lot of time and effort had I known about it earlier. Then again, that would have involved buying the tool and waiting for delivery...

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Oct 2022, 23:12

There are many videos out there for how to do this for the P2 cars. The S hook looks cool but if those basic methods aren't working, I doubt the S hook would help at all. In the video that ball joint looks almost shiny new, there is no corrosion.

Maybe more to the point the S hook would not have helped with the axle stuck in the hub either, that seems to be the real issue in your case. You could have alternatively released the control arm at the subframe instead of at the ball joint, or the knuckle at the strut, then released the axle. If the axle would budge ...