2001 S60 2,4T Crank No Start

[Tisa]

Hi! Warning long post!

And Hi again! i had to Edit my post since i realised its my first post ever on MVS! ive apparently been a Lurker since 2013. Im Tisa from Sweden and ive driven Volvos since The 240 series was new. i consider myself to be an adept mechanic and decent troubleshooter and had so much help from the forum and pretty much always found an answer by searching the forums that i apparently never have had the need to post anytning before BUT this time i had no luck in searching so im hoping on your collective expertis to nudge me in the right direction.

anywhoo...

Ive recently bought a 2001 s60 with the B5244t3 and m56L from a friend who’s name we shall not reveal , the car is a non runner due to some handy DIY work that my friend carried out on the car not long ago. I dont know why i bought it from him, im really not in need of it, maybe i did it just to lighten his burden this close to christmas? or maybe im just a sucker for self punishment?

The Saga begins one autum evening when my friend decides to mount an LED bar on the front of his newly MOT:ed 100% rustfree, black paint, full leather, business ++ , coils. Etc.etc. Bery nice car basically. In his endevour he decided to take 30+ battery power to the LED bar from the Jump start connection. But as he tightend the nut for the JSC the bolt broke off.. no foul that can happen to anyone right? And what anyone else probably would do is to buy a spare fusebox holder from the scrapyard and replace the broken one in the car right? Well my friend didnt

Since he is a licensed welder and has access to welding equipment he simply pulled out his Mig welder and welded both battery cabels and the fusebox 30+ feed to what was left of the stud. At the same same moment the pushed roughly ( as he states) 55-60A of welding current through the windshield wipers turned on for a brief moment, the headlights flashed and the car honked once before going quiet. He claims to have had both battery terminals off before welding, cant say if that statement is true or not.

This has resulted in a Crank no start situation with the car. Vida scan shows a faultcode list worthy of an nobel prize in literature. Unfortunatley i didnt save the primary scan i did.

As it sits today:
it cranks but does not start,
fuel pump works with Key On
No external light besides flashers.
Alarm seems to be working. But not central locking.
DIM is warning for ABS failure but lights upp with all warning lights with Key On although the backlight is very dim.
SRS light goes out after a couple of seconds with Key ON.
No relay in the main fusebox clicks when key is turned to ON position. Only starter relay clicks when cranking.
Also wipers work but only single speed. And no intermittent speeds at all

What has been done?: (il update here whenever ihave tried something new)

Main fuse box in engine compartment has been switched out to a used known good one with matching numbers although from a v70 if that matters?
All fuses swapped for new ones,
A relays in 3 fuseboxes and CEM swapped for new one or known good ones (Tested
Good)
Currently im trying to find pinouts for all modules so i can check power and ground circuits. any tips?

Questions.
Is there a way to test the alternator in situ in the engine bay? Without being able to start the engine?

Any tips Or trix to get the engine running and in the long term everything else in order is much appreciated.

/Tisa

[jonesg]

He disconnected the battery, then essentially pumped full welding current through the battery cables.
It also sounds as if the ignition was turned on, the wipers don't work if the key is off.

I'm not computer savvy enough to nail it but I'm thinking the upper module behind the rear view mirror. Others here will know more.
Maybe read the car with VIDA to see how many computer modules are indicating red.

[Tisa]

Hi and thanks for your answer! im not sure if he disconnected the battery or not but hopefully he did. Either way im wondering how much and where that current went. In a normal mig welder the ground clamp is the positive side and the elektrode the negative side with the flow of electrons going from the electrode to the ground clamp, but in a car with chassi negative the electron flow is the opposite. So that means
That at the time of welding he pushed 55A of current the wrong way, im thinking the same scenario as mounting a battery backwards. Although if the battery in the car was indeed disconnected that would still force welding current straight into the alternator rectifier bridge and the main fusebox’s main 60 amp fuses wich btw were all fine, none of them where blown but many more in the 11B fusebox wich leads mento belive that the ignition key was in on at the time of welding and therefore allowing current to pass backwards into the circuits.

From what if found so far is that the PHM is shorted in the module. But wiring to it seems ok giving battery voltage and ground at corresponding pins. CCM wiring and AUM wiring also seems to have Ok ground and voltage. Although they are dead as a brick when connected. Perhaps they need an signal on CAN L to turn on?

ECM, ETM, UEM, DDM, LSM, CCM, ABS, PHM, and now also SRS apparently although it responded at an earlier scan, but since then i have removed and reinstalled the CEM so i might have disturbed something in the wiring.

Using VIDa i checked if the CEM got any response from the TCM via the vehicle communication tab. And to my surprise it says Ok on immo relay, ECM start signal and Data recived among others which to me seems to indicate that the ECM isnt fully dead yet.

Tomorrow ( its 00:51 here in sweden right now) il try a resistance and power check on the CAN L and CAN H network to see if there is a fault there that prevents the modules from firing up (hoping its that easy…but usually it never is)

I have done a new VIDA scan and im attaching a screenshot of it here :

[jonesg]

Its all CEM codes, I think I'd try inspecting the circuit board lands. Beyond that...
xemodex has a troubleshooting flowchart ( I can't find it) on their website for the CEM, it might need repairing.

Or watch some videos for canbus problems.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... s+problems+