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Alternator question

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MissouriJim
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Year and Model: 2000 S70
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Alternator question

Post by MissouriJim »

Hi Folks,

The symptom is no charge from the alternator.

- Charge dash light does NOT illuminate with the others when I key-on before starting - does not come on at all.
- Charge dash light WILL illuminate if I manually ground the exciter wire (small red/white wire normally attached to the alt.)

Does this mean the alternator is somehow internally fried? I understand enough to know the exciter is supposed to somehow kick-start the alternator, but nothing more than that.

TIA,
-Jim

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Has your car been jump started recently? That can sometimes damage the alternator if the wires were reversed.

The dash warning light should come on at position II with the ignition key. If it does not then the bulb may be out or the alternator is bad. Normally the alternators are good if the bearings are not rumbling. It is the internal voltage regulator that wears out/fails.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

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Chuck W
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Post by Chuck W »

Sounds like the bulb is good, but the alternator/regulator is bad.
'97 854 T5 - Manual Swap/M4.4/COP/NA cams/P2R Brakes/16T/ chassis bracing/ XC70 nose swap
'97 855 GLT - Hers. RN swap/16T/COP/VVT/exhaust/302s/Flashed M4.4/ chassis bracing/ 2 kid seats
'78 GLE - Waiting in the wings. Future whiteblock/T5 swap.

The Others- '83 TBird turbo, '85 Mercury Marquis LTS (1 of 134), '86 LTD Wagon, '81 Granada GL, '76 Beetle, '93 F-150 I6

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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

Usually the voltage regulator fails. As long as the bearings are still good, Can be replaced without removing the alternator if you have enough patience. You will have to remove the regulator anyway to test the alternator windings /stator for shorts.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
Knows enough to be dangerous :wink:

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BEJinFbk
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Post by BEJinFbk »

Start the car.

Measure the voltage between ground
and the big post on the alternator.

What does it read?
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

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MrAl
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Post by MrAl »

Hey i'll check mine too. Maybe i have a semi bad wire (higher resistance than normal).

I had several alternators go on my old Hyundai. After replacing the ground connection has to be tight.
I really think they should use four wire power and sense. Maybe they are afraid if the sense wires get broken the alternator will fry the battery, but with all the other gadgets i would think they could have a fail safe and indicator light for that.
If i had my way i would install such a setup, but i cant seem to get to my alternator. It's really buried (see pics).

Dont know what all the terminals are for either.
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I’ve been driving a Volvo long before anyone ever paid me to drive one.
That's probably because I've been driving one since 2015 and nobody has offered to pay me yet.
1998 v70, non turbo, FWD, base model, on the road from April 2nd, 2015 to July 26, 2023.

MissouriJim
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Post by MissouriJim »

Great advice, all.

Since my power steering pump makes a lot of noise, I'll change it at the same time. So that makes removing the alt. clearly the best approach.

I'll remove the pump and alt. in the next cpl days, then I'll take a look at the regulator and see if there's clear damage I can repair or not. Then, I'll visit the yard for the appropriate bits this weekend.

-Jim

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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

MissouriJim wrote: 06 Feb 2023, 08:27 Great advice, all.

Since my power steering pump makes a lot of noise, I'll change it at the same time. So that makes removing the alt. clearly the best approach.

I'll remove the pump and alt. in the next cpl days, then I'll take a look at the regulator and see if there's clear damage I can repair or not. Then, I'll visit the yard for the appropriate bits this weekend.

-Jim
I would just order a new voltage regulator, ~$40. Reduced the risk of having to do it again.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
Knows enough to be dangerous :wink:

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BEJinFbk
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Post by BEJinFbk »

Have you confirmed the problem?

Step 1 - Check the power supply.
Step 2 - Refer to Step 1.

What is the voltage at the alternator
when the car is running?
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

MissouriJim
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Post by MissouriJim »

WhatAmIDoing wrote: 06 Feb 2023, 11:10 I would just order a new voltage regulator, ~$40. Reduced the risk of having to do it again.
Can you advise where I can source this? The only inexpensive ones were Chinese-made on Ebay from relatively unknown sellers.

IPDUSA has them for around $200

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