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Is this a good one?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Keshavsmith
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Is this a good one?

Post by Keshavsmith »

Hey guys. I’m looking into buying a 98 Volvo v70 glt… is there a way I could post the link to it so you guys could give it a look and tell me what you think? Is that allowed? My beloved 98 s70 is totaled. 😢 some lady plowed into me and busted up the bumper, side panel, and, apparently, the frame. I’m really sad as I loved that car. Anyway, looking to replace her but don’t want to get a lemon…

Keshavsmith
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Post by Keshavsmith »


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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Looks like the headliner was pulled out…

Dealers are very good at making cars look good, even so this car photographs well and looks good.

There could be a lot of concerns I wouldn’t know about without driving it. AWD for instance.

If you feel comfortable doing shade tree mechanic work I’d say check it out in person. If not, I wouldn’t bother.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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scot850
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Post by scot850 »

Interesting they list it as FWD when the badging on the rear clearly states AWD? So was it an AWD that no longer runs as one with the prop-shaft removed or do they just have no clue what they are selling.

As Matthew mentioned the headlining is missing (they come unglued with age and sag), there is a dent in the front LH fender behind the turn signal, and the usual door panel vinyl coming loose.

As to mechanicals I would be very cautious as it is an AWD. Similar to the V70XC but sits lower to the ground like a FWD car.

Do you do your own repairs or pay someone else? Either way the AWD cars are more complex at the rear with a rear subframe. They are more complex to repair and many parts at the rear are NLA from Volvo and aftermarket.

If you get a lot of salt and therefore rust on cars in Indiana, then really carefully check the rear subframe for aluminum corrosion below the rear fender and around the 3 mounting bolts either side. The subframes can corrode to the point of cracking (I have seen this on several).

Neil.
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You are in the rust belt so I would pass on that unless you are a serious level 4 /5 DIY or have a known hood Volvo independent nearby

Budget $2000 on top of purchase price to stage 0 it for long term daily driver use
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Keshavsmith
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Post by Keshavsmith »

Yeah, it’s weird, several sites showed it listed as a FWD when it says on the car AWD, so I don’t know what that’s about but I did read somewhere else that the AWD version can have more issues.. not sure if that’s correct. I did not notice the headliner issue, thanks for pointing that out…my first Volvo, a 91’ 740 had no headliner and it bothered me because when the windows were down, particles from the ceiling would swirl all through the car. I noticed the small dent, but figured I could live with it, but would obviously prefer no dents. I DID read that it’s a company fleet vehicle, which I guess likely means it’s had regular professional maintenance. Either way, sounds like I should keep looking. Thanks guys. If it’s okay I may share a few more options, should I find any, with you guys to get your opinions. I’m glad I did so with this one. Is it true that in 2001, they stopped making them in Sweden and the quality has since suffered? I’ve only driven a 91’ and 98’ and loved them both so I’m specifically looking for something pre 2000’s.
Thanks again, guys!

Keshavsmith
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Post by Keshavsmith »

Oh and to answer the questions…I do not do my own repairs. I’m a female, which I know does NOT matter, but in my case, my hobbies have always leaned towards the ‘gender norm’. That said, I do know a couple friends that work on cars, but they both balk at working on a Volvo, so… ha.

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

abscate wrote: 30 Mar 2023, 04:32 You are in the rust belt so I would pass on that unless you are a serious level 4 /5 DIY or have a known hood Volvo independent nearby

Budget $2000 on top of purchase price to stage 0 it for long term daily driver use
Abscate, I assume you missed a key and wrote hood instead of good. A hood Volvo independent would not be good. :lol:
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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

It has a TRACS switch on the dashboard. To my knowledge, AWD did not have a TRACS switch. That could potentially be a replacement tailgate. It does have the correct bumper for an AWD and the exhaust exits on the passenger side. I would pay a reputable independent mechanic to perform a prepurchase inspection. Should be $100-200. If the dealer won't consent to that, then they aren't worth dealing with.

If it's mechanical sound, has a FWD tranny, & doesn't need any other major maintenance, then it may be worth $3,000+. Especially with the third row seat. Of course you should always negotiate with dealers. I wouldn't pay that asking price regardless, but I drive junk. :lol:

Just decoded the vin, and it comes back as having a B5254T (correct for an AWD) and an M56 manual transmission. So either the listed VIN is wrong and/or that car has seen major surgery. Use that to dicker down the price.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
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rguzz
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Post by rguzz »

Buy one from a private party if at all possible. There appear to be lots of uncertainties with this one. Ohio is big time rust belt territory as someone pointed out. Keep looking, be patient for the right one. This ain't it I'd bet.

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