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Automatic gear selector - request or command?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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FireFox31
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Automatic gear selector - request or command?

Post by FireFox31 »

On a V70 (98-00), does the transmission shift into the gear you select on the selector (2, 3, 4) when you select it? Or are you simply issuing a request to shift into that gear if the car feels it's available?

Specifically, how can I force the transmission into each of the gears while doing a transmission fluid flush when the car is not moving? With the engine running and my foot on the break, will selecting 4 really move into 4th gear at 0 mph? Or would the car ignore that request since it would stall?

I really want to expel all of my terrible transmission fluid. Doing multiple drain and fills would add so much time repeatedly lifting the car and perfectly setting the level, leading to potential problems if the level isn't right each time, and the end result would be dilution instead of replacement. The power flush seems great if it could really access all gears.
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Post by abscate »

It changes the accessible gear range , not the actual gear. The operation is covered in the owner manual, and also changes with the depression if the W mode button

There is no escaping the multiple tasks of a three drain and fill protocol , but the Gibbons method can be done on the ground , conveniently.
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Post by foggydogg »

If the wheels are off the ground, just put it in gear and let it shift on its own; that exercises the valve body enough. It won't need a lot of throttle to get into top gear, and don't worry about lockup, that's a function of the torque converter. It's standard procedure in transmission shops to test their work while still in the air before a test drive.
Doing the fluid change by pulling the return line at the cooler is the way I've always done it, four quarts at a time, although the last one I did I took out the drain plug first to replace the washer, so started with a load of fresh juice, then the pumpout step.
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Post by FireFox31 »

foggydogg wrote: 24 May 2023, 11:47 If the wheels are off the ground, just put it in gear and let it shift on its own; that exercises the valve body enough. It won't need a lot of throttle to get into top gear
I thought the presence of the differential made it problematic to accelerate with the wheels off the ground. Each wheel spinning in different directions and all. Will it cause any damage to accelerate the car with the wheels in the air?
foggydogg wrote: 24 May 2023, 11:47 and don't worry about lockup, that's a function of the torque converter.
I recently did a transmission fluid change on my 2016 Mercedes E350. Apparently Mercedes shops don't drain the torque converter (it's too hard) but the forum users said there's tons of fluid in there. Sure enough, I drained the TC and it contained multiple Liters of fluid. Can the V70 torque converter be drained? Does it contain a similarly large amount of fluid to make it worth while?

I really want to get all of my bad fluid out. I'm strongly considering removing the cover to clean it, maybe even sending the valve body away to get examined and rebuilt if necessary. I have the valve body removal PDF, I believe written by precopster. This poor car shifts so poorly that I want to make it healthy again.
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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Post by abscate »

The ATF gets circulated through the torque converter so three drain and fills will result in roughly 87% Fresh fluid. If that doesn’t help your transmission performance the last bit likely won’t help, either.
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Post by foggydogg »

+1 with the Doctor, look at this as a science experiment. A mostly-fluid change will either help or it won't, and doing all that extra work won't make an impression on the final result.
As mentioned, transmission shops routinely run the cars in the air after a rebuild. You won't need much throttle - if any - to get it to shift.
(I've lost track here, I'm presuming it's not AWD.)
Have the wheels off if you're concerned about kinetic energy events.
Since there is no load on the drivetrain the diff doesn't care.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
00 V70xc x2, both now dead
62 122s, gone to live in Richmond
56 445 Duett basket project
1950 Studebaker 2R10 flatbed, T9 crashbox

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Post by abscate »

It’s fun to grab spinning wheels under drive on a rack and watch the differential transfer power to the other side. Wear proper safety gear , leather gloves , glasses, and a condom if so equipped
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