Intro: I went looking for 'cheap used cars' online after seeing one too many ads, and that led me to Copart auctions. After some cautious looking, I found the 2002 S60 in "runs and drives" condition for a Buy It Now price of $400. I needed a car for my two teen daughters and liked the idea of the Volvo brand. Copart delivered to my house for $95! It ran once, to get to the gas station, where I noticed the radiator leaking; I got home with just a little overheating.
Stage 1:
-replaced the cracked radiator
-took off the instrument panel which has no lights at all, but did not see any bad solder joints. After cleaning and reconnecting, some of the lights come on dimly, revealing the car has 225,000 miles (!)
-RESULT: car will not start, but 'flubbers' when I turn the key. When I test compression, water comes shooting out of the spark plug hole.
Stage 2:
- break down to install new head gasket
- replaced PCV hoses and oil trap box
- other gaskets in the kit (intake manifold, exhaust manifold, throttle body, piston o-rings)
- installed new thermostat housing (can't just get the thermostat!)
- checked bank account, and this car, plus the other two I'm working on have cost $2000 so far (still a good deal, I think)
Paused now on the timing of this odd engine, getting way too many different stories on how to time it. Some people on YouTube say don't even look at the timing marks. Some people say go by the timing marks. I have the cam holding tool, but why would I use that if I can line up the timing marks? What is the process with the exhaust VVT sprocket? ...the descriptions are never complete.
For later: new headlight wipers, new headlight lens, new hood lifters, oil change, cabin filter change, new lights for instrument panel. If I like this car too much, my daughters are getting something else!
Chad's 2002 S60 from Copart 😮
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chadCorem
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 29 February 2024
- Year and Model: 2002
- Location: Utah, USA
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Update: When the cam locking tool is on, the cams are in the correct timing location... So maybe I'm too scattered to have heard that from all of the various posts, but I don't remember hearing that directly. This eliminates my question from the OP. Hope that helps someone in their plans for engine work!
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abscate
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Going to move you from the maintenance thread into the p2 forum. This forum is for single post use, not discussion, and sounds like you need some guidance on timing VVT. Some of that advice is bad
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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volvolugnut
- Posts: 6233
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- Year and Model: 2001 V70
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Chad, MVS (Matthew's Volvo Site where you are now) is the place you need to learn how to repair this cheap Volvo. YOU will have to decide if the car is worth saving.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
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jonesg
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if the cam hubs were not removed from the cam shaft you don't need the rear cam lock tool.chadCorem wrote: ↑02 Mar 2024, 17:29 Update: When the cam locking tool is on, the cams are in the correct timing location... So maybe I'm too scattered to have heard that from all of the various posts, but I don't remember hearing that directly. This eliminates my question from the OP. Hope that helps someone in their plans for engine work!
if you are just changing the timing belt I lock the cams at the front in any position and swap the belt.
if it was running before it will run the same after the swap.
cheap $10 tool,
https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.html ... YYQAvD_BwE
snapon version $100
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Timing- ... %29/ML6000
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BlackBart
- Posts: 6500
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- Year and Model: 2004 XC70 BlackBetty
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You lock the cam wheels somehow so the VVT springs don't rotate when the belt comes loose?
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
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jonesg
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yes, exactly that. ...some vvt hubs are spring loaded.
I had a mechanic describe the quick way he does it,
lock the cams, cut the old belt with a knife, remove the tensioner,
install new tensioner and belt. Set the tensioner and remove the cam lock.
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chadCorem
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 29 February 2024
- Year and Model: 2002
- Location: Utah, USA
- Has thanked: 5 times
In the end, I just marked the heck out of the belt, had the cams locked with the tool (since I bought it), and put it back on like it was originally. I think I double-verified myself, which is okay in my book. The engine runs great now with the new head gasket and other parts. I was able to get most of the other parts in, and I sent the instrument panel away to Missouri to get the re-soldering done. It works fine now, though a little dim. I'm pretty happy with it, at around $3000 total, though I still have some more to do. Thanks for the great help everyone!
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cn90
- Posts: 8257
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
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This car is not even worth it. I'd sell it back to junk yard for $400.
These days, you can get a 2004 (Avoid 2002, 2003 etc) or 2005 S60 with 100K miles for $2,500-$3,000.
On the long run, it is cheaper that way.
These days, you can get a 2004 (Avoid 2002, 2003 etc) or 2005 S60 with 100K miles for $2,500-$3,000.
On the long run, it is cheaper that way.
Last edited by cn90 on 30 Mar 2024, 10:32, edited 3 times in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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