New owner of a 2007 V70, big problems? The oil is real.

[FinnishFirst]

Okay, long story and short as possible here. Picked up an '07 V70 with 80k miles on it, first Volvo (which I'm kind of ashamed of since I'm Finnish and Swedish). In pretty decent shape but owned by an older lady and sat around for a bit. Car drove well when I did a short test drive around town.

A day later as I'm driving it, I notice an oil burning smell. Okay, no big deal has a small leak somewhere. Took it out on the highway for a short 5 mile run at 75-80 mph and on the return trip when I was stopped at the light off the highway, the car was smoking like the Batmobile from the exhaust. Runs fine, has power, starts and idles correctly but you can smell oil burning on/in the exhaust.

Start it up the next morning, no smoke, no oil burning nothing. Drive it to work and back about 7 miles round trip, very faintly can smell oil burning but nothing alarming.

The harder it's driven and the more vacuum it pulls (like highway driving), the worse the smell is so I assume it leaks more when under boost.

My first thoughts were bad turbo but I keep reading about how these turbos don't fail often (which I'll leave alone for now as a former DSM and Scoobie owner I have a different opinion).

Next on the list were bad valve stem seals but everything I've done tells me they're fine, plus I should get a little blue on cold start if the stem seals were bad but there's nothing.

I've been reading about the PCV system on these Volvos and how they're a convoluted pile of dodoo. Did the glove test and it sucked in the glove. PCV system should be fine, but I went ahead and I replaced the entire PCV system including hard line that's attached below the rear of the camshafts.

I went to replace the lower subframe to body mount and removed the splash shield to get a better look at things, which I hadn't done yet.

This thing is still leaking and still burning oil on/in the turbo. I'm still thinking bad turbo. Return line looks dry and feed line looks dry. Cold side o-ring bad from sitting is my theory at this point but I wanted to post this here to pick your guys brains before I have the agony of removing this turbo and replacing it.

Any help is appreciated.

Ben

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[jonesg]

I would check the compressor rotor for play.
or just go ahead and drop the turbo.
You only need to pull the front alum half with the cartridge.
swap a new cartridge in and reassemble.

[FinnishFirst]

jonesg, thank you for the response.

When I had the boost pipes and intake off to do the PCV I visually inspected the compressor rotor and it had very minimal carbon buildup, I also tried moving the rotor back and forth I didn't detect any movement. This thing has me stumped, maybe because subconsciously I don't want to remove the turbo, hahaha.

As far as pulling the front half, you're talking about removing the housing via loosening the band clamp, correct? I haven't seen a definitive walk through on an 2007 V70 or S60 so the procedure is foreign to me.

Thanks again, jonesg.

[FinnishFirst]

Oh also forget to mention, I had to remove the top torque strut mount in order to access the banjo bolt on the side of the block for the new PCV system, and I didn't see any signs of oil leakage from the rear cam seals.

[jonesg]

The band clamp secures the front alum housing to the hot cast iron rear section.

Drain half the coolant, disconnect all the feed and return pipes....some from up top and some from below.
The coolant pipe will still give you a shower as coolant is trapped in the feed pipe, be ready with a cloth.

Disconnect intake and charge pipes, disconnect the wastegate, tiny tiny circlip.

Before undoing the collar clamp mark to clock both sides with something for reference, theres supposed to be an alignment pin but it was broken on mine. A small punch mark on both halves.

The cartridge is usually held in the alum housing by a large circlip. Thats all there is to it.

You can get new cartridge complete and balanced on ebay, mine came from the UK $180. 5 years ago.
You need the model number thats on the turbo to be sure its the right one. like this,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/404981996327?c ... iqEALw_wcB

order new copper washers for the banjo bolts from fcp, 2 washers on each bolt for reassembly.
and order a new o ring seal for the bottom of the oil drain pipe.

i did it with the front wheels on ramps.

[FinnishFirst]

Awesome, you rock jonesg. I'll go ahead and order the Mellet CHRA from the UK via their website, it's $199 shipped which is cheaper than getting the same one on eBay.

TD04L-14T if my research is correct.

[jonesg]

i would remove and examine it first, you need the numbers on the plate anyway.

[abscate]

You’ve correctly identified those red circled drain pipe torx hardware as a problem point on this job.

You can release the m6 bolt on that clamp, and then remove the turbo with that drain pipe attached, it just pulls out of the block. On the bench, bring heat and a good torx bit to that fastener party

[jonesg]

You’ve correctly identified those red circled drain pipe torx hardware as a problem point on this job.

You can release the m6 bolt on that clamp, and then remove the turbo with that drain pipe attached, it just pulls out of the block. On the bench, bring heat and a good torx bit to that fastener party

thats what i did, required some pretzel moves but it will come out, getting it back the same way wasn't so easy.

[FinnishFirst]

I want to thank you, jonesg and abscate, for your help on this. I will be ordering the new CHRA once I get the turbo off, which might be next weekend depending on how my schedule aligns. Luckily, I have a motorcycle and another vehicle that I can drive. Unfortunately, my wife needs the garage to charge her Chevy Volt in so I can't occupy the space for too long!

I also have to replace the AC condenser as it has a hole in it (I've watched it) and leaks out all the refrigerant. I've read conflicting reports on the removal of the AC condenser, as in you can remove it alone by removal of the front bumper and some other items or the other angle where it has to be dropped from the bottom in an assembly along with the intercooler and radiator.

Do either of you have experience or knowledge about this job as well? Thank you again, enjoy the last of the weekend!