Seeking swarm knowledge as I do my M56 swap 97 855 R Topic is solved

[NC855R]

Hi all,

I am in the process of doing a M56 swap into my 97 855 R. I have been thinking about this for a long time, gathering parts etc. This will be a long process as I have a backup car to use (93 245 +T ). In addition to the swap I'll be doing an oil cooler delete, timing belt, water pump and refresh of the sub-frame bushings. I'm posting this to gather answers to questions I may have along the way. I have tons of research on the various approaches (engine out, engine in, etc.). The M56 in question is from a 98 S70 T5M.

Plan:
1. Approach is to drop sub-frame (supporting engine of course and disconnecting steering rack from sub-frame). Dropping engine a bit to remove via driver's side wheel well.

I am in the process of clearing to components from the top before I start on the axles and under bits.

I recall removing the clutch master cylinder from the donor car was a pain (ABS pump, brake booster etc.) as there was no/little clearance. Since it was a donor car in the yard I could be more "forceful" in the removal. I plan to remove the ABS pump and brake booster on my car to gain clear access to the clutch master cylinder mounting location.

Question - Is there a write up of removing these components (ABS pump/brake booster) as I have not found one. All I find is removing the ABS module. Any pointer to a description of this procedure would be greatly appreciated.

I'll keep this thread alive with more questions as I go and hope you all can provide guidance.

Thanks - Tim

[NC855R]

OK, got the ABS pump off the car. Needed to undo all the brake lines. There are 3 10mm bolts holding the bracket onto the wheel well. 2 Are pretty accessible, the 3rd not so much. For the 2 on the top of the bracket you don't need to remove the bolts as the bracket will slide forward as the holes are really slots. The third bolt needs to be removed. 1 layer down, not for the brake servo/booster.

[foggydogg]

OK, got the ABS pump off the car. Needed to undo all the brake lines. There are 3 10mm bolts holding the bracket onto the wheel well. 2 Are pretty accessible, the 3rd not so much. For the 2 on the top of the bracket you don't need to remove the bolts as the bracket will slide forward as the holes are really slots. The third bolt needs to be removed. 1 layer down, not for the brake servo/booster.

A suggestion would be to call Robert, he lives for this stuff and has done at least a dozen. He's likely just back in Cincinnati from a Michigan parts run. He answered a text I sent him in mere seconds this morning.
www.robertdiy.com shows his cell number.

[yanga001]

I assume we are against an engine out the top with transmission method? Its a far more common technique from what ive looked into and should make the "nice to do things" such as the rear main seal, timing belt, water pump, and other steps quite a bit easier.

If the environment promotes it then an engine out would let you do a lot more maintenance on the engine itself (valve stem seals, PCV, etc) far easier and in a more controlled environment.

If the 97 855 uses ME4.4 then i would take a look at this forum as well https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/M44_Wiki

I dont recall well if the ME4.4 vehicles needed a lot for the manual swap. Your vehicle is older than the V70's so it may be different from what i was looking into. I seem to recall a need to jumper the transmission computer for the 98's if you were doing an M56 swap.

[NC855R]

I assume we are against an engine out the top with transmission method? Its a far more common technique from what ive looked into and should make the "nice to do things" such as the rear main seal, timing belt, water pump, and other steps quite a bit easier.

If the environment promotes it then an engine out would let you do a lot more maintenance on the engine itself (valve stem seals, PCV, etc) far easier and in a more controlled environment.

If the 97 855 uses ME4.4 then i would take a look at this forum as well https://m44.fandom.com/wiki/M44_Wiki

I dont recall well if the ME4.4 vehicles needed a lot for the manual swap. Your vehicle is older than the V70's so it may be different from what i was looking into. I seem to recall a need to jumper the transmission computer for the 98's if you were doing an M56 swap.

Yeah, the engine out of the top would be nice but I don't have an engine lift and I need to keep the work area tidy as it is on my parking pad. I'm doing this slowly, meaning over many weeks so I can have things sitting around in piles. I will be doing the rear main seal, the water pump and timing belt as well since I'll be on that side doing the oil cooler block off plate. As for the computer I have a new unit from Vast tuning for the european manual tune, so it is just plug and play.

[NC855R]

OK on the next challenge. The gear selector is from an S70 so I needed to remove the boot. Removed the handle and then proceeded with doing it the way RobertDIY recommended. Guess I didn't pay enough attention to the "trouble" areas and managed to crack of the retaining clips for the shift ball seat Now I can't find a replacement, looked on ebay, etc. Guess I'll post up in the classifieds to see if anyone has one squirreled away they are willing to part with.

[NC855R]

So I'm in the re-assembly phase. Making good progress. Next question, for the radiator where the auto cooler lines were attached, I'd like to plug the holes. I will investigate today and see if the brass fittings can be removed. Does anyone know if there is a plug available for these holes? I've looked and can't see to find anything.

[Chuck W]

I wouldn't worry with it. If you're worried about old ATF seeping, just flush the coils out with brake cleaner or what have you and run it.

I did that on my manual swap in the T5 and then when I needed to replace the radiator, I just got one for a manual car.

When I did the swap, I also swapped an RN oil pan, with the attached cooler, and got rid of the oil cooler lines as well.

[scot850]

Or just blank off the engine oil cooler lines as Robert suggests and others have done.

Neil.

[NC855R]

Or just blank off the engine oil cooler lines as Robert suggests and others have done.

Neil.

Did that got the oil block off plate and installed.