Monroe 182263 + 64 Mazda 3 Strut for V50 and P1 models? Topic is solved

[GreenMagicMan]

As title.

Read same year / era Mazda 3 front suspension parts will fit our Volvo P1 cars.
(Also read rears are interchangeable except in the AWD case they are not. I've likely got to get some rear camber arms to replace mine).
I've got a V50 T5 and have a broken front passenger spring. Causing extreme vibration at 40-75 mph. EXTREME. Smooths out after 75mph (didn't know it was broken while driving it higher speeds). Also making horrible single THUNK noise at low speed turns and pulling car severely either left or right on the road depending on the THUNK you've just done.

I can get these locally on hand extremely cheap from someone who bought them and isn't using them.
I've read the are same fit. Hoping that's so and wanted to hear what people think.

Unless I'm talked out of it, I will very likely get these and update how it goes.
It doesn't have to be 1000% perfect but I need to get this car drivable quickly. Most places are special order and several days delay around here.

Thanks.

[MoVolvos]

.
Assuming Amazon's info is correct for the front struts? We've had the 1AAuto Adjustable Camber Arm Set on our 08 C30 T5 2.0 M66 for 5 years and 25K miles. The Fitment Guide shows the Camber Arms work for Mazda and Ford. We are also using the Mazda 3 27mm rear sway bar from Whiteline which was purchased off eBay. You can try eBay's Fitment Guide for the front struts.
.
For Mazda 3 5 & Volvo S40 V50 C70 Pair Bilstein B4 Front Shocks Struts - BuyAutoParts 75-85835B0 New
https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-Front-S ... B075RJ4M3S
.
2008 Volvo C30 Rear Driver & Passenger Side Upper & Lower 4 Piece Control Arm Set TRQ PSA62119
https://www.1aauto.com/ford-mazda-volvo ... 07765/2008
.

[GreenMagicMan]

Thanks for the links! A1 looks like a great solution and as I see now the job should be easy as pie, it's nice they had those videos that were short and clear about what exactly to do (as it happens I've only done a fair bit of front end work - pretty much all that could be done up there, and not rear suspension work).

Seems like I will give the Mazda 3 struts a shot. Best quick solution I can find. Seller wants $50 for pair Monroes plus new brake pads and brake line. Can't beat the price.

[MoVolvos]

Thanks for the links! A1 looks like a great solution and as I see now the job should be easy as pie, it's nice they had those videos that were short and clear about what exactly to do (as it happens I've only done a fair bit of front end work - pretty much all that could be done up there, and not rear suspension work).

Seems like I will give the Mazda 3 struts a shot. Best quick solution I can find. Seller wants $50 for pair Monroes plus new brake pads and brake line. Can't beat the price.

.
Let us know how it works out for you.
.

[MoVolvos]

Thanks for the links! A1 looks like a great solution and as I see now the job should be easy as pie, it's nice they had those videos that were short and clear about what exactly to do (as it happens I've only done a fair bit of front end work - pretty much all that could be done up there, and not rear suspension work).

Seems like I will give the Mazda 3 struts a shot. Best quick solution I can find. Seller wants $50 for pair Monroes plus new brake pads and brake line. Can't beat the price.

.
Here are a couple more videos. I had never noticed the C30 when I purchased it let alone knew anything about P1's. Parents wanted to purchase a manual for the grand kids to learn how to use the clutch. No cheap soft clutched Honda's at the time to be found.

I had replaced the front struts twice. Not knowing the car wasn't sure if I wanted to dump a lot of money so found a pair of new front struts on eBay for $20 . The passenger OE Sach was blown so those worked great. Did changed it to KONI later on. On the second install I purchased 3/8 sockets with a spreader tip. It was a kit of 2 and they failed to do the work. If you can make one like the video it is literally that easy. We spent hours the first time and with a mallet on the knuckle. Second time wasn't much easier as the tool didn't spread the knuckle and kept slipping and the KONI's had a real thick coat of paint.

After purchasing the rear camber arms and you decide you would like to attempt a DIY alignment, I'll do another write up. Although I been doing DYI alignments for probably over 25 years the C30 was my first attempt at a proper 4 wheel alignment. It's been 5 years and tire wear was fine when they were replace. It would be best to do this in a garage.
.

.
First video I saw for the rear camber arm. Later found these others.
.



.

[GreenMagicMan]

I can separate that shock from the knuckle without too much drama. Did the other side. Did the cheat trick of a hex head Allen key and twisted in in the gap and popped that right out. A mini sledge works too to hammer on the knuckle.
Well... except that since I must be stronger than He-Man I snapped the pinch bolt right off. So that was off to a neighbor with a welder and 30 min of labor and he had the snapped off left behind all thread out.
I used a replacement bolt to get it all back together (front wheel bearing job). If you need a write up of how to do a press fit front wheel bearing on the P1 let me know and I will post. Didn't use a press or take it to shop just used a free loaner tool that I use for Honda front wheel bearings as well.

YES! would love some info / write up on how to try to tackle an alignment. that would be really excellent especially for the P1.
I have never attempted to do one at home but want to with this car and maybe my primary ride (Honda Accord Coupe - love it).

[MoVolvos]

I can separate that shock from the knuckle without too much drama. Did the other side. Did the cheat trick of a hex head Allen key and twisted in in the gap and popped that right out. A mini sledge works too to hammer on the knuckle.
Well... except that since I must be stronger than He-Man I snapped the pinch bolt right off. So that was off to a neighbor with a welder and 30 min of labor and he had the snapped off left behind all thread out.
I used a replacement bolt to get it all back together (front wheel bearing job). If you need a write up of how to do a press fit front wheel bearing on the P1 let me know and I will post. Didn't use a press or take it to shop just used a free loaner tool that I use for Honda front wheel bearings as well.

YES! would love some info / write up on how to try to tackle an alignment. that would be really excellent especially for the P1.
I have never attempted to do one at home but want to with this car and maybe my primary ride (Honda Accord Coupe - love it).

.
Did you grind down the Allen key per video? I will most likely be replacing the 08 C30 T5 wheel bearings and so far have found most write ups still requires a lot of work. If you have a short cut with a specific tool that would be great to know. I'll put together a write up for the 4 wheel alignment and post.
.

[MoVolvos]

.
Here is my input into a 4 wheel alignment.

viewtopic.php?p=653534#p653534
.
When making adjustments it's always Caster, Camber the Toe. With the P1 you have Camber in the back and Toe upfront. You have to install the adjustable camber arm first and adjust the rear camber before the 4 wheel alignment.

With the car on the ground before unloading the spring to work on it. Using a 2 foot level standing in the horizontal position at the center of the rim measure the distance of the upper lip of the rim at 12 o'clock then the lower lip at 6 o'clock. Be sure the rim is not heavily curb rashed. If it has a negative camber of more than 1/4" you should lengthened the camber arm by around 3/16" before installation. Check by stacking the two on top of the other.

Just snug down the adjuster as you'll fine tune it while on the ground. Most alignment shops will adjust, lower and check and raise the car again to further adjust but I prefer to have the car loaded on the ground while doing this. It is more difficult however. The best would be no more than an 1/8" negative camber as the car will settle more as you drive.

You can use some grocery bags on the ground beneath the tires to help the wheel slide or while making the adjustment on the ground. Some people use several layers with grease in the middle to minimize any tire binding due to the concrete.

After you're done proceed with the 4 wheel Toe alignment.
.

[GreenMagicMan]

I don't think it's a lot of work per se. It depends if things break is mostly the issue.
At one point, when a bolt wouldn't budge I just figured I'd take the whole strut out and work on the pinch bolt on the bench. I snapped off the bolt with the corroded nut on the very first shock upper bolt I tried to remove. That stopped that.
I then snapped off the strut pinch bolt. I knew great fun would ensue.
If things actually let go like they should it shouldn't be that big of a job.

The loaner tool in fact I used some people say you shouldn't or can't use. You can. There is the concern when you push the new bearing in it could push the race out as it doesn't have a specific fussy bracket the expensive bearing press tool kits have (and the basic one is what the auto big box parts store have to loan).

I did the P1 V50 front bearing pretty much like I did the Honda Accord front bearing. I have a 32 min video posted to YouTubes on that with a lot of hits:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDJdaaUP7Ss

I could make a write up specific to the V50 with some pics.

[MoVolvos]

I don't think it's a lot of work per se. It depends if things break is mostly the issue.
At one point, when a bolt wouldn't budge I just figured I'd take the whole strut out and work on the pinch bolt on the bench. I snapped off the bolt with the corroded nut on the very first shock upper bolt I tried to remove. That stopped that.
I then snapped off the strut pinch bolt. I knew great fun would ensue.
If things actually let go like they should it shouldn't be that big of a job.

The loaner tool in fact I used some people say you shouldn't or can't use. You can. There is the concern when you push the new bearing in it could push the race out as it doesn't have a specific fussy bracket the expensive bearing press tool kits have (and the basic one is what the auto big box parts store have to loan).

I did the P1 V50 front bearing pretty much like I did the Honda Accord front bearing. I have a 32 min video posted to YouTubes on that with a lot of hits:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDJdaaUP7Ss

I could make a write up specific to the V50 with some pics.

.
You should be able to do the alignment. As for the bearing your video is excellent. I saw several videos and people struggling with a press with one video using an alternate press tool like yours. You do make it look easy and knowing that kit would work gives me a little more confidence to tackle it when the time comes. Thanks.
.