My project car is not running as it should, even after rebuilding ETM to contactless, and I need to try replacing the ETM with a used one.
I have on hand an ETM from T6 engine, can this one be used?
ETM interchangable, Magneti marelli, S60 2.0T
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dikidera
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As far as I know, and I have not delved much, before you remove the old sensor there are voltages that need to be measured so that the new sensor can be adjusted.
Anywho, it all depends on software, other than that it will run as they are 1:1.
But it's better to say what the issue is specifically and what was revealed with a code scan or fuel trims.
Anywho, it all depends on software, other than that it will run as they are 1:1.
But it's better to say what the issue is specifically and what was revealed with a code scan or fuel trims.
- firstv70volvo
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Can you provide more details about the car and the symptoms you're having? Is the car NA or turbo, what was the original problem and the reason you rebuilt the ETM with a contactless sensor? What are the symptoms after the rebuild? Did you do the rebuild with the contactless sensor and if so did you use the Sacer sensor? Do you have VIDA/DICE? Wondering if you really need another ETM or not at this point.
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MagneB
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I rebuild the ETM as it was creating several codes related to faulty ETM, and throwing it into limp mode. The engine had a rough idling and strange lambda sensor readings (reading extremely lean at idle, actually running super rich).firstv70volvo wrote: ↑08 Dec 2024, 19:33Can you provide more details about the car and the symptoms you're having? Is the car NA or turbo, what was the original problem and the reason you rebuilt the ETM with a contactless sensor? What are the symptoms after the rebuild? Did you do the rebuild with the contactless sensor and if so did you use the Sacer sensor? Do you have VIDA/DICE? Wondering if you really need another ETM or not at this point.
After rebuild is it still creating error codes, and limp mode.
ECM-91B7
ECM-903F
ECM-913F
ECM-914F
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MagneB
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No, I did not calibrate before rebuilding. Just presumed it was the position sensor, and that a rebuild to contactless may make it work. When I opened it I found that it was exposed to water internally, so I need to test another ETM.
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dikidera
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From memory I remember there was an adjustment that could be made to the contactless sensor prior to assembly to be more compatible. Probably idle position or reference position, I can't remember specifically so forum members will need to chime in with the correct information.
Beyond that, it's not always just the sensor, it is after all a whole board and could have a whole slew of failures.
Beyond that, it's not always just the sensor, it is after all a whole board and could have a whole slew of failures.
- firstv70volvo
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These are throttle position codes. Are these the codes before or after the rebuild, did the codes change? Are the symptoms, the rough idle, running rich from before or after the rebuild, have the symptoms changed?MagneB wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 07:02I rebuild the ETM as it was creating several codes related to faulty ETM, and throwing it into limp mode. The engine had a rough idling and strange lambda sensor readings (reading extremely lean at idle, actually running super rich).firstv70volvo wrote: ↑08 Dec 2024, 19:33Can you provide more details about the car and the symptoms you're having? Is the car NA or turbo, what was the original problem and the reason you rebuilt the ETM with a contactless sensor? What are the symptoms after the rebuild? Did you do the rebuild with the contactless sensor and if so did you use the Sacer sensor? Do you have VIDA/DICE? Wondering if you really need another ETM or not at this point.
After rebuild is it still creating error codes, and limp mode.
ECM-91B7
ECM-903F
ECM-913F
ECM-914F
When you did the rebuilt the ETM did you measure the output voltages of the new sensor after install, there's a default resting throttle position sensor voltage ~1.35V to 1.4V after power up and self-test, a fully closed ~0.65V and a fully open throttle position voltage ~4.5V that are expected voltages. In my case, I needed to adjust the sensor position after install to get the expected voltages. When the ETM is powered up it does a self-test mode for a few seconds, buzzing and closing the throttle then releases the throttle to the default position, which is about 20% open. If the voltages are off by too much it fails the self-test and you can hear the difference during the test.
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MagneB
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I did not have the equipment needed to test and measure after rebuild, but from my memory the ETM codes are the same, but the idling has improved and I don't get any "emission warning/service warning". Possibly because I also cleared the PCV systemfirstv70volvo wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 10:24These are throttle position codes. Are these the codes before or after the rebuild, did the codes change? Are the symptoms, the rough idle, running rich from before or after the rebuild, have the symptoms changed?MagneB wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 07:02I rebuild the ETM as it was creating several codes related to faulty ETM, and throwing it into limp mode. The engine had a rough idling and strange lambda sensor readings (reading extremely lean at idle, actually running super rich).firstv70volvo wrote: ↑08 Dec 2024, 19:33
Can you provide more details about the car and the symptoms you're having? Is the car NA or turbo, what was the original problem and the reason you rebuilt the ETM with a contactless sensor? What are the symptoms after the rebuild? Did you do the rebuild with the contactless sensor and if so did you use the Sacer sensor? Do you have VIDA/DICE? Wondering if you really need another ETM or not at this point.
After rebuild is it still creating error codes, and limp mode.
ECM-91B7
ECM-903F
ECM-913F
ECM-914F
When you did the rebuilt the ETM did you measure the output voltages of the new sensor after install, there's a default resting throttle position sensor voltage ~1.35V to 1.4V after power up and self-test, a fully closed ~0.65V and a fully open throttle position voltage ~4.5V that are expected voltages. In my case, I needed to adjust the sensor position after install to get the expected voltages. When the ETM is powered up it does a self-test mode for a few seconds, buzzing and closing the throttle then releases the throttle to the default position, which is about 20% open. If the voltages are off by too much it fails the self-test and you can hear the difference during the test.
- firstv70volvo
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If the codes were cleared and the same codes came back after the new sensor was installed then it may be a problem other than the throttle position sensor(s) with the ETM, like dikidera mentioned. The TP sensors are a common problem but not the only problem with the ETM. I'm not too sure about the software compatibility, such as with an ETM from a T6 car.MagneB wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 11:50I did not have the equipment needed to test and measure after rebuild, but from my memory the ETM codes are the same, but the idling has improved and I don't get any "emission warning/service warning". Possibly because I also cleared the PCV systemfirstv70volvo wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 10:24These are throttle position codes. Are these the codes before or after the rebuild, did the codes change? Are the symptoms, the rough idle, running rich from before or after the rebuild, have the symptoms changed?MagneB wrote: ↑09 Dec 2024, 07:02
I rebuild the ETM as it was creating several codes related to faulty ETM, and throwing it into limp mode. The engine had a rough idling and strange lambda sensor readings (reading extremely lean at idle, actually running super rich).
After rebuild is it still creating error codes, and limp mode.
ECM-91B7
ECM-903F
ECM-913F
ECM-914F
When you did the rebuilt the ETM did you measure the output voltages of the new sensor after install, there's a default resting throttle position sensor voltage ~1.35V to 1.4V after power up and self-test, a fully closed ~0.65V and a fully open throttle position voltage ~4.5V that are expected voltages. In my case, I needed to adjust the sensor position after install to get the expected voltages. When the ETM is powered up it does a self-test mode for a few seconds, buzzing and closing the throttle then releases the throttle to the default position, which is about 20% open. If the voltages are off by too much it fails the self-test and you can hear the difference during the test.![]()
Just some information about checking the TP sensor voltages. You only need a 12V power source and a meter to check the voltages. You connect power to the ETM (see photo), let it do its self-test and then measure the default resting position TP sensor voltage, then manually close the throttle plate and manually open the throttle plate and measure voltages at each position. I have a small 12V lead acid battery for bench power but you can also plug in the ETM into the car connector or use small jumper cables to power it up. You do have to have access to the TP sensor pins by removing the plate. In a couple of the photos I've attached you'll see them I'm measuring the voltages on the outside plates, I ground the plastic to get to the metal contacts since I was experimenting with a retrofit. If you measured the voltages you would do so on the inside once the plate was removed
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