Log of intermittent crank but no start | 08 S60 2.5T

[yanga001]

Hi everyone,

Well it seems that my intermittent no start has started to become a consistent no start. It only happens when its very cold out and the engine is cold. After reading the forums i believe it is the crank position sensor.

When i checked my car with a scantool i noted the following:
-fuel pressure appeared to be correct, 403kpa reported (may have the unit wrong).
-long term and short term fuel trims are correct
-spark is good
-battery is good
-is not an issue after the car has warmed up.

Intermittently i have received codes relating to faulty RPM signal. I have also noticed the RPM's fluctuating a lot when trying to crank the car.

I have changed the PEM with the spare i had in the trunk and i suspect that made no difference.

Will see if i can pull a used crank position senor from a p2 at my mechanic or a yard.

[dikidera]

Be careful changing the CPS. That plastic bracket has a stud embedded in the plastic to which the new CPS is tightened via a nut. The problem is that as soon as you attempt to tighten it, it snaps off the bracket.

[scot850]

I can attest to that! Also the replacement bracket at $40 CDN or do from Volvo of Toronto, cannot be fitted without pulling the transmission.

Now I don't know if someone had fitted the wrong nut on the stud in the case of the 02 XC70 I was working on, but it had one of those self locking nuts which is not round. On old plastic with a stud bonded to it, it makes no sense. I swapped it for on of the Volvo nuts with the serrated bottom faces on it and after gluing the stud in place with JB weld high temp epoxy, it works for now. I think in the future we will re-address the issue. I think I will take a die-grinder and grind a slot in the top of the trans bell housing to allow access to the 6?mm hex Allen bolt to be able to remove it.

Neil.

[dikidera]

The bracket can in fact be fitted without removing the transmission, as long as you are willing to make a compromise. You can create slits in the new bracket(as vtl suggested) so it fits over the bolts OR you can use a chisel and lightly hammer the part of the transmission that prevents the bolts to go in the new bracket, this method has one huge drawback and that is that, that specific part of the transmission bellhousing is very thin and you can in fact do more damage than good.

[jonesg]

Hi everyone,

Well it seems that my intermittent no start has started to become a consistent no start. It only happens when its very cold out and the engine is cold. After reading the forums i believe it is the crank position sensor.

When i checked my car with a scantool i noted the following:
-fuel pressure appeared to be correct, 403kpa reported (may have the unit wrong).
-long term and short term fuel trims are correct
-spark is good
-battery is good
-is not an issue after the car has warmed up.

Intermittently i have received codes relating to faulty RPM signal. I have also noticed the RPM's fluctuating a lot when trying to crank the car.

I have changed the PEM with the spare i had in the trunk and i suspect that made no difference.

Will see if i can pull a used crank position senor from a p2 at my mechanic or a yard.

That can also be RF interference from an old "noisey" starter motor, the crank sensor loom passes behind the starter and picks up RF and confusing the ecm with a corrupted signal. You can try re-routing the loom by pulling the starter and bracket, if that fixes it then the starter is the problem. THe tip off is if it only happens on startup, especially when cold because the starter is drawing more voltage and amps to overcome a cold engine. The harder it has to work the more it sparks internally.

[abscate]

Make a quick measurement if the cold resistance of the engine Coolant temperature sensor. These sensors age and then don’t tell the ECU to inject correct cold start fuel. You will have to pull the right part number and scour here for the right values, I’m not sure a 2008 S60 is a p2 or P3 chassis

[jonesg]

Make a quick measurement if the cold resistance of the engine Coolant temperature sensor. These sensors age and then don’t tell the ECU to inject correct cold start fuel. You will have to pull the right part number and scour here for the right values, I’m not sure a 2008 S60 is a p2 or P3 chassis

if you have vida it will show what the ecm is reporting for temp from the sensor.
My new thermostat housing came with a new sensor, it was 70 degsF out of whack from actual temps.
Reinstalled the old sensor and it worked fine.

[yanga001]

Hey guys, benn a while.

O8 S60 is still a P2, i can check with my code scanner for the temperature sensor reading.

The interference could be a viable reason as the car will disengage the starter randomly while trying to crank, this is accompanied by fluctuating speed needles on the dash. Maybe ill insulate with aluminium foil to start and see if that helps.

At -19 C my Interstate MTP battery is pulling hard duty, glad i picked one with much higher CCA . She will keep cranking for 2-3 minutes and be right as rain.

Maybe ill try some contact cleaners too on the connectors and see if that helps.

[vtl]

Add another ground strap to one of alternator's bolts.

[imaV70Rdriver]

A new antenna ring might be worth a try. I bought part No.8621509 last Feb from FCP for $70. It solved my very troublesome intermittent no start issue. BTW, the price has gone way up!

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 90-8621509 $209.69

It's much cheaper here...and is cheap enough to take-a-chance.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ ... 621509-VOL $63.75

or...
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/13854/4 ... hdY1gxZP-Z $264.95

I thought it was a starter issue, and installed a new starter motor for no reason. It was the antenna ring that caused my woes.