1998 V70 not running after timing belt change Topic is solved

Cuyguy · Post by **Cuyguy** » 30 Mar 2025, 20:36

Just bought this 1998 s70 glt down in Florida. 84k miles. Ran fine on the way home, but was leaking oil like crazy. I decided to change the pcv system and vacuum lines. That repair was a success. The car started up and ran well on the test drive.

Given the mileage of the car I decided to also do the timing belt service with a kit from IPD. I also changed the rear cam seals and the crank seal.

I timed the cams and the crank up and locked the cams with the ipd cam lock tool. When I attempted to remove the harmonic balancer the crank slipped time and was no longer in sync with the cams. At the advice of IPD I removed the cam lock tool and attempted to re time, I got about 5 teeth forward before hitting a wall. I decided not to proceed any further. I spoke to Robert Spinner and he advised me to turn it backwards 5 teeth to get the cams back on the mark. So I did thatand then locked the cams back up. Then I removed the belt and realigned the crank with the mark. I marked all of the timing marks with white paint. Now that all marks were in alignment, I finished the service as normal. I also installed a new cam sensor as the old one had broke at the connector. I spun the engine over several times and did not feel anything concerning, all of the marks stayed perfectly lined up with each other.

I put everything back together minus the spark plug cover and the timing cover. Tried to start the car. It will crank and crank but will not start.

I've checked the distributor cap and it is in the correct keyed position, as is the cam sensor. Battery is fully charged. Seem to be getting spark and fuel but still no start.

I removed the spark plug from cylinder one and spun the motor over by hand and I can feel the air blow out from the compression.

I haven't done an official compression test on it yet, but I will tomorrow.

I also tried to do the "lawn mower" treatment on it with no luck. The spark plugs appear to be original and pretty fouled out, but they worked fine before the timing belt change so I find it hard to believe they'd be my issue.

I am out of ideas on this one. Hoping someone here might have some advice... Otherwise it'll be up for sale or headed to the scrap heap.

Post by **matthew1** » 30 Mar 2025, 21:12

Welcome to MVS. Pull a plug and wire out so it can ground to the block, and in a dark garage look for the spark. Test fuel pressure with a gauge. I can't remember what psi it should be but that's somewhere here in the forum... 46 or so.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 30 Mar 2025, 22:24

I would take a "day off" from this project and try to relax. If possible, bring a second pair of eyes who know a little about cars to help you. Sometimes we are missing something small and through frustration are not able to see it(" I checked it several times, I can't be that..." ).
1. Take time to check the timing marks again.
2. Disconnect fuel pump relay and check compression on all 5 cylinder. If all nice and even-install back fuel pump relay.
3. The new cam sensor..was it ebay or Amazon or Dorman? Any chance to obtain a used oem sensor(with amount of counteract and junk quality of the part(ipd home brand parts included)everything is possible.
4. Check connection at the cam shaft sensor(if it broke before, maybe pin tension is loose?).
5. Check fuel pressure.
6. Recheck if all intake hoses are connected properly included turbo and Intercooler.
Good luck.

your compression is top notch.

Post by **misha** » 31 Mar 2025, 00:56

Cam sensor & distributor plate can go in two ways...one way is a no start.
Re-position them.

Cuyguy · Post by **Cuyguy** » 31 Mar 2025, 07:05

Thank you guys! She's running!!!!

Turns out I didn't have the distributor lined up in the cam slot properly.

Post by **scot850** » 31 Mar 2025, 08:29

Great team effort guys! Well done!

Neil