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1999 S70 T5M Parasitic Draw

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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afranke
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5M
Location: Raleigh, NC
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1999 S70 T5M Parasitic Draw

Post by afranke »

Hey everyone,

I'm having a bit of a head-scratcher with a parasitic drain on my relatively new-to-me '99 S70 T5M, and I'm hoping you might have some insights or suggestions on what to try next.

What I’ve Observed & Done So Far:
  • Parasitic Drain:
    • The car is drawing about 132–148 mA when off.
    • I disconnected all fuses and relays (even some hidden ones under the cover next to the fuses), but the drain didn’t drop.
  • Aftermarket Modifications:
    • The car had an aftermarket subwoofer connected directly to the battery—I've since removed it.
    • There's also a modified aftermarket ECU, which I pulled out of its socket, yet the current draw remained the same.
  • Voltage Measurements:
    • Battery Terminals: Measuring across the battery (with the negative cable connected and positive cable disconnected) shows 12.81V.
    • Fuse Box Circuit: Measuring from the positive battery terminal to the bundle (four wires) going to the fuse box gives about 12.80V—this branch appears solid.
    • Starter/Alternator Circuit: However, measuring from the positive terminal to the wire that goes to the starter (and then to the alternator’s B+ terminal) reads 11.68V, which is roughly a 1.13V drop.
    My Thoughts:
    The voltage drop on the starter/alternator branch suggests there’s extra resistance or a load in that circuit that's causing the parasitic drain. I’m wondering what could be drawing power on that specific circuit when the car is off. Could it be a failing alternator (maybe a bad diode in the rectifier), a loose or corroded connection, or something else? I was able to get a meter on the B+ terminal directly, but having some trouble disconnecting things to get a proper test on it.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

I think YourThought is totally on point. Rectifier diode in the alternator is bad and drawing some current
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misha
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Post by misha »

Since everything else is covered...i also vote for bad diodes in alternator.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

afranke
Posts: 10
Joined: 14 February 2014
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5M
Location: Raleigh, NC
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by afranke »

Perfect, good to know I'm on the right path. The next question, can I get away with just replacing the regulator ( https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... h-30667899 ) , or do I need to replace the entire unit?

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misha
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Post by misha »

First...you need to remove the alternator and bench test it at some good car electrician.
Then you will know for sure what is wrong with it.
Maybe the battery have short cell inside.

Before you remove it...check alternator output when engine is running.
Healthy charging system must have 14-14.2v at battery terminals and alternator directly(+ on b+ & - on alternator housing) after about 30 min of driving.Do not turn the engine off before testing.
Perform a voltage drop test.
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS

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