ECM-261A Topic is solved

[Vuym]

Hi everyone,

Anyone come across this ECM-261a code?

Have been working on an 03 Manual S60R and have just been doing general maintenance / stage 0 like sparks, coilpacks, vacuum lines etc.

Noticing that under heavy load the car smells like it's running quite rich and the fuel economy is awful (about 150 miles at best in a full tank). Car was initially not running the best but had a crack in the intercooler so I've managed to replace that. Replaced the MAF sensor already and going to smoke test it this weekend along with fitting a new fuel pressure sensor.

Any other ideas / advice in getting to the bottom of this? Thank you

[DavidE7]

You have a bunch of communication issues!

I would recommend running a smoke test on the intake manifold to find any leaks. There are YouTube videos with instructions for building a smoke generator with a soldering iron, glass jar, old sock, and baby oil. The smoke test saves a ton of guesswork and is the fastest way to find all the problems. The ECM-130A fault code is likely the same leak problem as the ECM-261A code.

I would also start cleaning electrical connectors at the CEM, REM, and other modules with a good electrical contact cleaner like Deoxit. Make sure you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the modules. Follow the Volvo procedure for re-connecting the battery when you are finished. Take pictures of the relays and their locations before pulling them out. I fixed a DDM-0025 fault by removing the door panel, cleaning the DDM contacts and inside the electrical plugs, and disconnecting and cleaning the other electrical connector contacts for the mirror. There was a bit of corrosion inside the connectors. (This doesn't work if you are missing the side mirror or if the adjustment motor is really broken...)

[Vuym]

You have a bunch of communication issues!

I would recommend running a smoke test on the intake manifold to find any leaks. There are YouTube videos with instructions for building a smoke generator with a soldering iron, glass jar, old sock, and baby oil. The smoke test saves a ton of guesswork and is the fastest way to find all the problems. The ECM-130A fault code is likely the same leak problem as the ECM-261A code.

I would also start cleaning electrical connectors at the CEM, REM, and other modules with a good electrical contact cleaner like Deoxit. Make sure you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the modules. Follow the Volvo procedure for re-connecting the battery when you are finished. Take pictures of the relays and their locations before pulling them out. I fixed a DDM-0025 fault by removing the door panel, cleaning the DDM contacts and inside the electrical plugs, and disconnecting and cleaning the other electrical connector contacts for the mirror. There was a bit of corrosion inside the connectors. (This doesn't work if you are missing the side mirror or if the adjustment motor is really broken...)

Hi Daniel,

Thank you for your advice! I happen to have a smoke generator, I was going to use one of the TCV lines but I'll use the one coming off the intake manifold. I'll make sure to give the connectors at the CEM a good clean too. Don't suppose the DEM-000B could be put down to old / dirty oil? I don't think this 150k mile car has had it's diff & haldex serviced at all!

[vtl]

DEM error is either bad pressure+temperature sensor or dead pump. Pump lasts about 10-11 years. Can be a bad DEM, too.

[Vuym]

DEM error is either bad pressure+temperature sensor or dead pump. Pump lasts about 10-11 years. Can be a bad DEM, too.

The AWD will work for about 30-90 minutes when I clear the code but the fault will return. VIDA displays appropriate logging for the temperature and pressure until it cuts out which makes me think it's either a faulty DEM or the oil is so degraded it's preventing function

[vtl]

The AWD will work for about 30-90 minutes when I clear the code but the fault will return. VIDA displays appropriate logging for the temperature and pressure until it cuts out which makes me think it's either a faulty DEM or the oil is so degraded it's preventing function

Can be pump. DEM shuts the system off once it convinced it does not work as designed.

[Vuym]

The AWD will work for about 30-90 minutes when I clear the code but the fault will return. VIDA displays appropriate logging for the temperature and pressure until it cuts out which makes me think it's either a faulty DEM or the oil is so degraded it's preventing function

Can be pump. DEM shuts the system off once it convinced it does not work as designed.

Hmm, sounds like this will be frustrating to solve. Is there an easy way to test the function of the pump?

[vtl]

Hmm, sounds like this will be frustrating to solve. Is there an easy way to test the function of the pump?

In temperate climate it dies reliably every 10-11 years, much sooner in cold climate. My car is 20 years old and I just put my third pump.

[Vuym]

Hmm, sounds like this will be frustrating to solve. Is there an easy way to test the function of the pump?

In temperate climate it dies reliably every 10-11 years, much sooner in cold climate. My car is 20 years old and I just put my third pump.

I'll keep an eye out for one, the AWD does work completely fine when the codes are cleared for at least an hour though, if it was the pump surely it would AWD would never work and there would be no pressure rise on VIDA?

[vtl]

I'll keep an eye out for one, the AWD does work completely fine when the codes are cleared for at least an hour though, if it was the pump surely it would AWD would never work and there would be no pressure rise on VIDA?

It's a delicate matter. I found that my old worn pump works fine with oil temp above 15ish degrees Celsius. Keep looking for ambient temps vs Haldex operation.

How old is your pump? Never replaced in 20+ years - it is guaranteed dead. Was replaced recently (5ish years) with Volvo or BorgWarner (OE) - could be that sensor.