87 740 ball joint question

nisan17 · Post by **nisan17** » 03 Sep 2007, 15:09

Group,
I have an 87 Volvo 740 with 177k that I believe needs new ball joints. Problem is, I have a lot of sources for the part, but the prices vary from $13. to $76. With the average part costing $40. The parts that I've seen listed seem to have all the hardware. Are they created equal? I'd loved to save the money, but I don't want inferior parts. Where do I draw the line?

Any input is much appreciated,

Kevin

paulfr · Post by **paulfr** » 04 Sep 2007, 07:14

Hiya,

I suggest calling FCPGroton (google search) out of CT. They have always provided me w/ good parts at a fair price and a very lenient return policy. I will sometimes buy a part and at install decide not to use. FCP always takes the return w/ no restock fees.

Now to your question re/ why the big difference in price. Check it out. Sometimes the "part" is strictly the ball joint and sometimes you're buying the ball joint AND control arm assembly (also called the A-Rod but being from Red Sox Nation I don't like to swear on Line

The ball joint attaches to the wheel and the control arm attaches the ball joint to the frame. On some model volvo's these are two parts that can be purchased separately and others they are one piece that are bought as a ball joint/control arm assembly costing more.

My advice is to replace the ball joint/control arm assembly. i just did my 93 850' PS wheel. It is much, much easier (to me) to replace the whole thing than try and replace just the ball joint. Especially if you are inexperienced w/ this. I also think the end result is better & safer.

THe separate ball joint only procedure requires removal of the ball joint from the control assmbly The three bolts connecting them usually break free and then "spin" and won't come off until you remove the control rod anyway so since it's off...Also the reassembly is easier (again to me)

There are write-ups on How-To. Try Bay 13 or this site too I believe.

If you're concerned re/ the ball joint check out your tie rods end play too. Sometimes one is mistaken for the other.

Not a huge task but you'll need to prep. Read the articles. Email w/ questions.

paulfr

nisan17 · Post by **nisan17** » 04 Sep 2007, 10:27

Paul,
I did my 79's last summer and they were a cinch, an hour each side and no special tools.

I got the ball joints from our local parts store. Since that time I have found numerous sources with various prices.
Just wanted to get the heads up on quality vs price.

Thanks,
Kevin

nisan17 · Post by **nisan17** » 21 Sep 2007, 09:07

This is an excerpt from a newsletter I received. Goes for all parts I guess.
Works for me.

> Some customers insist on "nothing but the best." Others say, "I just want something that will work." We try to satisfy all customers by offering parts at different price/quality levels.
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> "Professional Grade" brands like Wagner and Spicer are often identical to the parts that came on the vehicle originally. Sometimes they are even "better than new" because they're designed to solve problems the car manufacturer overlooked. They are made from top-quality materials that will last a long time.
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> "Economy" or "Service Grade" parts like Guardian and Spicer Red are usually made outside North America. Though they will fit the vehicle, they may look different than the OEM part they are designed to replace. They may lack features like grease fittings or chamfered edges. They may use lower-quality materials and wear out sooner. These parts are designed to meet, but probably not exceed, OEM requirements. They're functional parts at a great price.
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> If you're an aggressive driver, travel a lot of miles, use your truck to haul heavy loads, and plan to keep it a long time, it's probably worth the extra money for a "Professional Grade" part. If you're just running errands around town and your car has so many miles that the engine is likely to die before the brake pads or ball joints wear out, "Service Grade" is sufficient.
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