96 850 Questions

[sldhd7]

Hello there people, I just purchased a 96 855 Base model with 190,000 miles on it. It runs really good and shifts fine.
But i want to do some maintenance on it. I plan on changing the timing belt and probably the water pump while I'm in there. I was also considering changing the trans filter. But here's the thing, the dip stick shows some clutch material on it when i wipe it across a towel. I have heard horror storied about changing the filter and fluid and then it starts acting up because of who knows. Common sense tells me to change it, even though the fluid smells fine I don't want the clutch material plugging up the filter. So should I change it or not?
I also want to do a tune up because it can take up to 3-4 seconds before it will start sometimes. while I am at it I have a brand new Accel coil that is universal E-core design and was wondering if hooking it up would burn anything out like the hall effect amplifier? I am not sure how picky these cars are to aftermarket items.
Then have any of you used the Sea Foam product(de-carbon) on these 5 cylinder engines? I have used it many of times on American cars with high miles and have had very good results.
Also how much more of a job is it to replace the valve seals while I am in there replacing the timing belt. Having 20 valves doesn't sound like too much fun to me! But it will smoke a little when it is first started up after it sits over night.
Is there any difference between Volvo antifreeze and NAPA antifreeze?.
Thanks for your help!!! Tom.

[Ozark Lee]

Tom,

Welcome to Volvo world! To the best of my knowledge - limited since I picked up my first 850 with an auto tranny 6 days ago - there is no transmission filter on the car hence it will be very difficult to change it.

If the fluid is at all dark do a site search and flush per the MIJ method. Since I drank the chunks of milk when I was in 4th grade I have very few milk bottles of milk in my house. I am waiting for my kids to gather a few bottles to make the flush on the "new" car.

You cannot hurt yourself changing the idlers and the water pump but it should have been done at 140K. Standard procedure is to change them on every other timing belt change ( 140k, 280k....). Without evidence of a change go ahead and do it.

Sea Foam is good. Suck it into the vacuum lines and let it "percolate" for a while. Then start the car again. No more mosquitoes for a while after the cloud of smoke that it will let off.

I don't know about the coil change. The OEM Bosch coil makes sparks on both of my 850's so I have not tried it. If you do install it, let us know how it works.

I am not sure how picky these cars are to aftermarket items.

Very picky!

Particularly with ignition parts and oil filters. Do not buy Bosch Platinum plugs (Bosch Coppers are great at .028), do not buy Bosch plug wires, only OEM Bougicord, and do not buy Fram oil filters only Mann W-917's.

The valve seals are a quantum leap from the timing belt. To get to the seals you need to remove the upper half of the camshaft housing. To replace the belt the camshaft housing does not need to come off at all, only the Serpentine belt and the timing belt cover.

Lastly, on the anti freeze, I suppose it depends on what anti freeze you buy from NAPA. NAPA was the only place I could buy Zerex G-05. I actually think any antifreeze would work just fine but the manual calls for a phosphate free formulation so I have my choice of Zerex G-05 or OEM Volvo.

It is like the line I heard this weekend