I disconnected my battery to clean off some corrosion on my 1994 940 wagon automatic and it would not start after i reconnected it. Could I have blown a fuse or disturbed something by disconnecting the battery? The starter turns the engine over but it acts like it is not getting a spark. Any ideas?
Joe
1994 940 wagon automatic won't start
tripleb,
It is running now for some strange reason. I removed a few fuses and put them back, I checked to see if the fuel pump fuses were bad. I checked the shraider? valve on the fuel rail to see if there was fuel pressure. Volvos are new to me but I have no idea why it runs now. Feel free to tell me where you were headed on the MAP sensor. Thanks,
Joe
It is running now for some strange reason. I removed a few fuses and put them back, I checked to see if the fuel pump fuses were bad. I checked the shraider? valve on the fuel rail to see if there was fuel pressure. Volvos are new to me but I have no idea why it runs now. Feel free to tell me where you were headed on the MAP sensor. Thanks,
Joe
Joe,
These engine management systems can make adjustments to the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing based on vac. leaks and other things to keep the engine running properly. It's called fuel adaptation.
The MAF (MAP) sensor can be failing, but the engine can still run fairly OK. The system adjusts to this failing MAF and all is fairly OK, until you reset the adaptation, by disconnecting the battery. Then you try to start the car and it wont run!
Hope that makes sense.
3B
These engine management systems can make adjustments to the air/fuel mixture and ignition timing based on vac. leaks and other things to keep the engine running properly. It's called fuel adaptation.
The MAF (MAP) sensor can be failing, but the engine can still run fairly OK. The system adjusts to this failing MAF and all is fairly OK, until you reset the adaptation, by disconnecting the battery. Then you try to start the car and it wont run!
Hope that makes sense.
3B
I'm back again after about 1 week of the car running. It did not die on me but it did not start after we turned the car off. I tried disconnecting the MAF sensor but it did not make a difference.
Am I going to damage anything on the ignition if I take a spark plug out and connect it back to the wire and turn the engine over and look for a spark?(with someone helping me obviously) I don't have any expensive diagnostic tools.
I think I am getting gas because I have pressure on the shraider valve on the fuel rail. Is this the proper way to test for fuel? what meters and pulses the injectors? (I'm really old school but do understand the basics.)
I know there is about 4 things I need to look for, gas, spark, air and timing.
It almost sounds like it may be slightly off with the timing, any other ideas ?
remember, this all started after I disconnected the battery to clean the corrosion off, I caused this to happen the first time and it mysteriously started working again. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
joe
Am I going to damage anything on the ignition if I take a spark plug out and connect it back to the wire and turn the engine over and look for a spark?(with someone helping me obviously) I don't have any expensive diagnostic tools.
I think I am getting gas because I have pressure on the shraider valve on the fuel rail. Is this the proper way to test for fuel? what meters and pulses the injectors? (I'm really old school but do understand the basics.)
I know there is about 4 things I need to look for, gas, spark, air and timing.
It almost sounds like it may be slightly off with the timing, any other ideas ?
remember, this all started after I disconnected the battery to clean the corrosion off, I caused this to happen the first time and it mysteriously started working again. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
joe
Joe,
Sorry I missed that last post. Sounds like you figured out where the MAF is.
You will not damage anything with spark plug, but there is an easier way. Just pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold the end of it near a grounded area, like the valve cover nut on the back of the valve cover, have someone crank the engine, and see if you have spark.
The chances are you are having problems with the RPM sensor or the Fuel Pump relay, but there are other possibilities too.
You really should check the codes. Check out this info. You only have an A socket, read #2 for fuel system, and #6 for the ignition system.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/a2.html
Here is a good list of the codes
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=10758
I recommend erasing the codes by pulling the engine module fuse. I believe it is fuse # 1 but I'm not positive. Look at the fuse box cover, it will tell you. It is a 25 amp fuse.
Be aware that when you pulled the connector off the MAF, you set a code, but check the codes anyway and let me know what you have.
And lastly, are you hearing the fuel pump run when it isn't starting?
B
Sorry I missed that last post. Sounds like you figured out where the MAF is.
You will not damage anything with spark plug, but there is an easier way. Just pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and hold the end of it near a grounded area, like the valve cover nut on the back of the valve cover, have someone crank the engine, and see if you have spark.
The chances are you are having problems with the RPM sensor or the Fuel Pump relay, but there are other possibilities too.
You really should check the codes. Check out this info. You only have an A socket, read #2 for fuel system, and #6 for the ignition system.
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/a2.html
Here is a good list of the codes
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=10758
I recommend erasing the codes by pulling the engine module fuse. I believe it is fuse # 1 but I'm not positive. Look at the fuse box cover, it will tell you. It is a 25 amp fuse.
Be aware that when you pulled the connector off the MAF, you set a code, but check the codes anyway and let me know what you have.
And lastly, are you hearing the fuel pump run when it isn't starting?
B
Joe,
The RPM sensor is at the back of the engine, on top of the transmission.
Here is a picture of what it looks like.
http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... sorgf2.jpg
You don't have a B diagnostic socket on your car.
It's fairly tight getting to the bolt that holds it on, but not too bad. You should use a long extension and a 10mm swivel socket, but you can make other tools work. It helps if the car is not warmed up when you do it.
Make sure you erase the codes when your done.
B
The RPM sensor is at the back of the engine, on top of the transmission.
Here is a picture of what it looks like.
http://img134.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... sorgf2.jpg
You don't have a B diagnostic socket on your car.
It's fairly tight getting to the bolt that holds it on, but not too bad. You should use a long extension and a 10mm swivel socket, but you can make other tools work. It helps if the car is not warmed up when you do it.
Make sure you erase the codes when your done.
B
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