S40 2001: Looking for reliable service provider in s. sfbay

myonmine · Post by **myonmine** » 22 Dec 2008, 00:43

Hello,

I have a S40 2001 and it has about 80,000 miles. The car seems to work nicely, but recently, both the "check engine" light and "service" light are on.

I recently moved to Mountain View/Palo Alto area. I would like to locate a reliable auto service provider and repair the problems of my car. Any good suggestions?

Thanks,
-m

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 22 Dec 2008, 05:09

Welcome to MVS.
The service light is easily turned off (it is just to inform you that it's time for an oil change). To turn it off, before inserting your key, push in your trip counter button and then as you hold it in, insert your key to the ignition and turn your key to position II. Continue to hold the trip reset button until you get a dash light to blink, then immediately let go of the reset button. Now, when you start the car, the service light should be off. For the other problem, you'll have to have your trouble code read to see what's up. AutoZone or other parts stores should do this for you for free. Make sure and write down the codes you get so you can post them back here (we'll tell you what's going on).

In regards to SF area shops, I really don't know, but other sites have mentioned that Fremont Volvo is good. Some swore by Carlsen Volvo and others have said, they were condescending. Royal Motors has a good reputation but is expensive. My suggestion is have these dealers bid against each other for your work- when you find out what needs to be done, call them and ask them what their charge is (hourly rates, etc.) My own opinion is to find other Volvo driver's in your area and ask them who they use. I tend to shy away from dealers and use knowledgeable independent mechanics, personally.

myonmine · Post by **myonmine** » 28 Dec 2008, 18:06

Thank you so much for replying! I am still out of town and I will have my trouble code read as soon as possible.

Also on the dashboard, there is a red light of a passenger and a seatbelt. Do you know what that means?

Thanks a lot!
-m

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Dec 2008, 18:30

Probably means that the car is sensing that your "passenger" doesn't have his seat belt on. I have heard that the sensor in the seat can become too sensitive and need recalibration by the dealer. I'm assuming you don't have a passenger sitting in that seat, right?

myonmine · Post by **myonmine** » 28 Dec 2008, 19:10

I thought the same too, but I would still get the light even when there were 5 people in the car. Do you think the problem could come from the back seat too?

I forgot to note that the red light signal also includes an airbag in front of the passenger.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Dec 2008, 19:19

Ah...not sure as I don't own that car, but it certainly sounds like there's a trip to the dealer involved to get this sorted. It's too much a safety feature to tackle this yourself.

myonmine · Post by **myonmine** » 02 Jan 2009, 23:28

I managed to get the code. Do anyone know what ECM-A1 means?

Thanks!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 00:56

You must have gotten this read at the dealer? Anyway, whoever did, read off a Volvo specific code (a little unusual, so I had to look it up- most of the time, people get generic codes that start with P). This code typically means that you either have a defective thermostat, defective ECT sensor, or bad contact resistance at the ECT sensor terminals (the ECT is your coolant or antifreeze temperature sensor).

Is the temperature gauge on your dash low? It should be right in the middle between hot and cold after the car warms up if everything is working right.

Here's what you need to do (or have someone do for you):
1. pull the cable loose from the ECT sensor (on your car, the connection itself is located on top of the radiator where the cooling collar attaches, even though the sensor itself is screwed into the thermostat housing. Because of its location, it is vulnerable to being bumped during any kind of engine maintenance) and clean the contacts on both the ECT sensor connector and the part that plugs into it with electrical cleaner and plug the sensor back in. Then get in your car, start it and after you've warmed it up for about 5 minutes see if the the temperature gauge is still off.
2. If #1 didn't do it, then you probably need a new ECT sensor and/or new thermostat. It is best that while you're in to replace one, you also replace the other. This is a very simple procedure which doesn't cost much money.
3. Once #2 is done, reset the check engine light...the same guy who read your codes can do this with his scan tool...or if you had to pay for someone to read your code, don't do that again- just go to an Auto Zone or other auto parts store and ask them to read and reset your code for you. If everything is fixed, the code shouldn't come back and your engine light should stay off.

You aren't going to kill your car even if you drive it for a few days like it is unless you're over heating. I suspect that the opposite is probably happening and you aren't even warming up in the cabin very well with the current condition. The thermostat opening to allow hot coolant into the engine is what ultimately warms the cabin and with the ECT sensor code, this isn't happening. Anyway, the reason I said all of that is because these parts are cheaper ordered through an online vendor rather than through the dealer, and you really shouldn't use generic parts from your auto parts store. So, it will take a few days for you to get the parts sent to you if you decide to save some money and avoid the dealer's parts department.

I've searched around and here are your best deals on these parts:
1. For the thermostat: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDeta ... ?id=271417
2. For the ECT sensor: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDeta ... d=9125463A

All orders of $40 or more from Eeuroparts qualifies for free shipping so that should save you some more money. Personally, when I buy from them or anyone else on line I get a few oil filters, oil nut nut, aluminum washers, etc.- things I would typically need for maintenance because prices are so good compared to the dealer. You can do what you want.

Hope the information I've provided is helpful.
Wish I was closer, I would help you install these.
Btw, I read on another site that Scandia Auto Service in Sunnyvale is suppose to be pretty good. I can't attest to them personally as I'm in Tennessee. Another btw- did you ever figure out what was up with the seat belt light? A code for that would be so specific that a Volvo dealer or a good independent shop that deals with Volvo would be the only ones able to read the codes for this.

Regards,
David

myonmine · Post by **myonmine** » 03 Jan 2009, 01:58

Hello David,

Thank you very much for your kind reply!

I read the code for free from an independent shop called Say Ray in Palo Alto. Peter there basically reset all the lights and asked me to check if any lights would be on again. The car ran without any lights for a few days; however the check engine light came back after I started my car this morning (it was a cold day and I started my car quite quickly). Also, I have been watching the temperature gauge. The car does not seem to overheat because the pointer points right in the middle of the meter. So.. do you think the sensor is broken? Or do you think I just need to have some new coolant?

By the way, I went to 2 different Auto Zone's around my area and they no longer offered free code reading. I am not sure if it applies to everywhere.

Have a wonderful 2009,
Chi-Wai

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 03 Jan 2009, 08:24

That is interesting that the temp. gauge is right in the middle where it is suppose to be. I would get Peter to read your code(s) for you again now that your CEL (check engine light) is back on (or is it possible that you're confusing the service interval light that goes off after 2 minutes of driving with the CEL?). If it's truly the CEL, I'm thinking you've got some other code now (which was masked by the previous one which is now fixed...thinking out loud- maybe Say Ray pushed your ECT connector back in or just cleaned it for you routinely?), but then again, for some odd reason, when the ECT sensor goes out (at least on my car and other Volvo's that I'm more familiar with), all kinds of strange things happen. Certainly, check your antifreeze to see if it is still good. The auto parts store sells (very cheap- a couple of bucks) a little device with little colored balls in it that you suck up your fluid into and it will read how low your coolant is good for as well as the boiling point. If the coolant is bad, then get Peter to flush your coolant out for you and replace it. Only replace Volvo coolant with Ethylene Glycol (the green fluorescent stuff). Prestone is pretty good (they even make a 50/50 mixture so you don't have to add distilled water to the more concentrated stuff), but best seems to be a phosphate free antifreeze made by Zerex called G-05, if you can find it in your area.

Good luck and let us know what comes up.

P.S. Thanks for the link to Say Ray... seems like a very reputable shop- great reviews. These shops for Volvo's are hard to find (and good dealers, even more so). Many tell you wrong information just to get your money, at least in my case....one reason I got involved in this forum....so if Peter is going out of his way to do some free stuff for you, keep this relationship going- take him some pastries or some Starbucks or something, especially if you go by the shop in the morning....anyway, probably not necessary, but just a thought. Just trying to say, do whatever it takes to keep up a good relationship with someone you trust and can work on your car- they are few and far between.