Catalytic Converter for 2001 S60 NON-Turbo

Freshfeda · Post by **Freshfeda** » 11 Feb 2009, 11:29

My Engine size is B5244S-Does anyone know where I can find one online or in retail stores? I'm only receiving answers informing me to purchase it at a dealer for $1,100-1,400...There has to be one out there! I need an alternative.
Thanks

Wildman · Post by **Wildman** » 11 Feb 2009, 13:59

What if you found one from a salvage yard off a low mileage car?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 11 Feb 2009, 20:06

I guess my question would be, how are you convinced that the CAT is really bad- this is actually pretty rare on these cars.

Freshfeda · Post by **Freshfeda** » 12 Feb 2009, 07:50

The "check engine" light cam on last year around this time. I took it to 2 different dealers and they said the same error message was due to the CAT. I live in MA. I have failed my inspection & emissions to receive a sticker.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 12 Feb 2009, 18:51

Dealers want the money and codes will point towards a CAT even if it's not (although it could be)...I would get it looked at by an independent who knows your car for a third, non-biased opinion.

cclee76 · Post by **cclee76** » 18 Feb 2009, 17:09

Hi, I am new to the site as far as posting, but have used this site extensively to get info regarding issues with my 2001 S60. I love this site! Anyway, my check engine light is on as well and I took it to Auto Zone and had them read the codes. They came up with the following: P0455, P0446, and P0420. I have been told it could be a vacuum leak, O2 sensor, or catalytic converter. I took it to my mechanic this week and he cleared the codes and told me to come back when the light comes on so he could read them fresh. He didnt tell me the exact code, but said it was the O2 sensor, about a $280 fix. Hey, better that than the catalytic converter from what I see that costs, but after searching around on this site, I am concerned maybe it isnt the O2 sensor and maybe a vacuum leak which could trigger the O2 sensor codes right? I am no car expert and have just been learning about things as I need repairs and research them to make sure I dont get ripped off as I am a female.
I read advice on how to check for a leak with the carb spray which I will have my husband help me try. The car has about 114,500 miles on it and is a US car. We bought it used in 2005. When we bought it, it did (and still does) do this strange surging thing where while accelerating, the RPM's will rev up but the car doesnt really go much faster until it stops. I had the dealer look at it and they found nothing, so we just ignored it. Now about 3 years later it still does it and I just dont like that this happens. It is a sporadic thing. Also the idle was running a little rough and going up and down when the air was on. I had the throttle body cleaned this summer. It seems a little better than it was. Could a vacuum leak cause that as well? I had a new alternator put in a year and a half ago as that went out. This is my first Volvo and it is nice, but I am not liking all the expensive repairs and things that keep coming up on it, although at the mileage it has now, I expect them. Also my modulator on my driver's side window needs to be replaced and would have to get that part from the dealer as no salvage places have it here in Buffalo. That is the least of my concern right now. I want to keep this car running like it should as I want it to last. I wish I knew how to fix cars myself as it would save a lot of money, ha ha! We do what we can, but we just dont have the know how for big things.
Sorry this is so much info, but I know you guys know your stuff and may be able to help me out and save me a ton of money and from getting a repair I may not need. Anyone know a good import repair shop in the Buffalo,NY area. My guy is not an import specialist.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 18 Feb 2009, 20:16

At this point, if you've done the spraying to see if there is a leak and you don't find one but surging continues, then I would definitely suspect the ETM- the symptoms you mention certainly fit the profile. In regards to the window regulator- you may have to just bite the bullet on this one. Good luck and please let us know how things go. I believe the window regulator, you can buy from the internet (even eBay) and install it yourself- it's not that hard. The other (ETM), if you get no cooperation from the dealer, you might want to go ahead and consider the non-contacting ETM posted about in the sections above in this forum- a bit expensive but it will go sooner or later anyway, and you can eliminate possible future issues by just swapping out to one that Volvo won't hassle you over (even though it's suppose to be under warranty still).

cclee76 · Post by **cclee76** » 18 Feb 2009, 20:32

I lost you a little on the ETM stuff, but I did see the forum where Volvo is supposed to replace it if supposedly only if all the other involved parts are in working order (I dont know what those would be). I never go to the dealer for any repairs, only for bulbs and other easy replacement parts. I dont want to go to the dealer if they are going to charge me to look at it right now (who knows how much that will be). My repair guy said he had never fixed a window modulator on a Volvo and didnt feel comfortable doing it, so I would be afraid to attempt it as I definitely dont know what I am doing or all the parts needed. Wish I could though. I think he told me of another place to take it. Maybe I should ask them about the other possible repairs. I will let you know how the carb spray thing goes. Thanks! By the way, I am originally from Nashville.

ctrobk · Post by **ctrobk** » 20 Feb 2009, 09:05

I went through the same thing with my '03 V70 non-turbo. I purchased it used from a dealer with about 60k. The check engine light appeared @ about 65k. I went to Autozone to read the code with the OBD. I was getting the P-0420, cataylst below threshold or something. I thought it could have been a product of some off brand gas which I happen to have used right around the first occurence. I just kept returning to Autozone to reset. Eventually the light stayed off. I saw no difference in mpg or performance at the time.
For the past few months I noticed the car was having trouble going up hill. Then it started sputtering uphill. I thought maybe it was a tranny issue. It got so bad I had to bring the car in (local guy specializing in Vovlo). After 4 hours of diagnositics, the mechanic disconnected the exhaust and the problem was corrected. OEM part is around $1100, direct replacement aftermarket was around $850. We were able to find one off of a wreck with 45k on it. He charged me $450 for the part and 1.5 hours of labor. Volvo will warranty it for 8 years, 80k. I had 90k so I was out of luck. I think CA is 10 years, 100k. Good luck. I have seen OEM on the net for about $850, but the shipping brings it right back to the price of your local dealer.

Not sure about MA, but I am in CT, and there are Volvos all over here. Try for a salvaged unit.

db130 · Post by **db130** » 20 Feb 2009, 09:10

MadeInJapan wrote:Dealers want the money and codes will point towards a CAT even if it's not (although it could be).

truer words were never spoken and i'd like to thank the MA volvo dealer who quoted $1300 for a cat replacement to the previous owner of my car, who in turn did not want to spend the money to fix it and subsequently sold it to me cheaply. the correct fix in my case ended up being 2 new o2 sensors. a variety of factors can trigger codes for a bad cat even if the cat itself is fine.

whereabouts in MA do you live? contact me if you'd like a diag with my scanner that can read live engine data.