I was clunking the other day on the right side. So, I tightened up my sway bar link nuts. Did the trick. As I had the time, I also tightened up on the left side. Those were on the loose side too, so it's good I checked. However, while tightening the left bottom sway bar link nut, I reached a point where I had okay torque, but the nut just kept turning and turning without getting tighter. I guess that means the nut and/or bolt is toast. But I felt it was tight enough for the next couple days until I could get a new one. Well, two-days later, hit a small bump, and I could feel that bolt lurch loose and now the sway bar link really clunks on the left side now.
Questions
1. How can I take the nut/bolt off now. I loosen and loosen but it just turns. Same goes for when I tighten. (I'm making sure the bolt does not move with the nut). Is there a good method for cutting it off, or is there a much simpler way?
2. I can torque it just enough to where I can hear only a faint clunk. Is the car safe to drive slowly (<60 mph)? Let's even imagine that the sway bar link bolt becomes totally dislodged?
I hope to learn plenty from your answers. I've already learned that loctite could have saved me all this trouble.
v70 awd '98 sway bar link bolt
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terrencekeenan
- Posts: 40
- Joined: 9 February 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: St. Louis
If you're sure the bolt is not spinning then yeah, the threads are stripped, probably on both the nut and bolt. I would say the link is toast because the bolt is part of the link. So get a new link (or 2). If you have a 4 inch angle grinder, just cut the nut off. If not, a hacksaw would work, i guess, but that would not be fun. Or you could go to a shop with a six pack in hand and let them use an impact gun or grinder on it. You can drive it home without the link attached, but not much more than that.
I happen to have two spare sets of the end links for the same car. I replaced mine last month with IPD heavy duty ones when I replaced a bad sway bar. I had replaced one of the old ones with Volvo OEM links back in the summer. So I have two that came off the car (and still seem tight), one OEM link that was never installed, and one OEM link that was on the car for 6 months. I'll send you the old ones for shipping cost only, or let's say $25 each for the newer OEMs ($39 at FCP Groton. I hate to see good parts go unused. Let me know. Paypal should work although I have not sold anything that way.
I drove mine for a couple of weeks w/o end links; was just careful not go go around turns too fast.
I drove mine for a couple of weeks w/o end links; was just careful not go go around turns too fast.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
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martz010185
- Posts: 40
- Joined: 1 January 2007
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 non-turbo
- Location:
I am working on my sway end links at the same time, and I know that there's an area right by the rubber boot on the end link that's flat where you can grab onto with an open end wrench that will allow you to tighten it down. Have you tried this? I believe you'll need a 17 or 18mm wrench.
Here's a write-up with a picture of it, if it helps any more.
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/3.htm
Here's a write-up with a picture of it, if it helps any more.
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/3.htm
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Marco
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 18 December 2008
- Year and Model: V70 XC, 1998
- Location: South Carolina Sea Islands
I'm not a mechanic or a Volvo expert, but I do spend a fair amount of time at work removing stripped bolts and such.
If you have room a good method is to grasp the nut firmly with vice grips, and pull the nut down while turning it. Obviously the bolt must be kept from turning. Just keep a good constant pulling pressure on the nut while you turn it and it will come off.
Do not attempt to reuse the nut or bolt.
If you have room a good method is to grasp the nut firmly with vice grips, and pull the nut down while turning it. Obviously the bolt must be kept from turning. Just keep a good constant pulling pressure on the nut while you turn it and it will come off.
Do not attempt to reuse the nut or bolt.
-- Marco
- Volvo wagon
Chevy pickup
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terrencekeenan
- Posts: 40
- Joined: 9 February 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location: St. Louis
Larry,
just a couple hours too late - I already ordered a new link bar from Groton before I saw your post.
It's my only car, so I have been driving it with the loose link (still hanging on there). It's good to hear that it's been done before, and my wife especially, likes my new driving habit of going slow in the corners.
Speaking of loctite - does anyone have any opinions as to the blue or red, is the red overkill for just a link bolt. I'm asking because I have some unused blue loctite in the basement.
just a couple hours too late - I already ordered a new link bar from Groton before I saw your post.
It's my only car, so I have been driving it with the loose link (still hanging on there). It's good to hear that it's been done before, and my wife especially, likes my new driving habit of going slow in the corners.
Speaking of loctite - does anyone have any opinions as to the blue or red, is the red overkill for just a link bolt. I'm asking because I have some unused blue loctite in the basement.
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
I just use the blue...
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo
When you get the new one, I recommend trying to get a wrench on the back in order to get it tight, as Martz010185 said. I think the new ones have a small Torx opening on the end of the bolt, but I could not get a lot of torque on the nut turning it against the Torx socket. Try putting on the back wrench before installing the link. Also, you'll need to jack up the wheel a little to get the link lined up well with the strut before you finish tightening it up.
Larry
Larry
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
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