760GLE '88 Possible HG Failure?

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 11 Mar 2009, 21:19

Hi all,

went to go check engine oil levels today, level was fine on the dipstick, but decided to take the breather cap off as well (PRV engine) and noticed a bit of milky stuff around the cap. I haven't noticed anything such as: loss of power, or extreme coolant loss, etc, this is the first time I've ever noticed anything like this. The weather has been wacky around here, snow one day, then 60+ degree weather, then snow again, don't know if that has anything to do with it. Generally, trips are made to and from work and campus, so at most 25 minutes but the car warms up to normal temp. Also, I filled the overflow tank with coolant up to the max line about 4 or 5 months ago when I did the thermostat and installed a new green cap. Today, I noticed it was almost down to min... haven't noticed any coolant in driveway or anything.

Thanks for the help!

Post by **billofdurham** » 12 Mar 2009, 13:11

The milky deposit is a sign of an engine used for mostly short runs in cold weather. It is condensation mixing with the oil.

To test the theory take the car for a much longer run and get it well warmed up then check the oil.

The loss from the coolant reservoir over a period of 4 - 5 months is probably down to evaporation. As a matter of interest I never fill mine to the Max mark but always aim for a point about 3/4 full. In the past I have noticed that several of the cars I have driven, not just owned, will throw out any coolant above 3/4 then settle down to that level for quite some time.

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 12 Mar 2009, 14:29

As always, thanks for the great tips at MVS! Will check and report back, that puts my mind at ease a bit!

I did have another question though, I noticed that there's a bit of a clicking from the engine when it's on. I've owned the car for a year, and have never done a valve adjustment, would doing one help much? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just wondering because "it ain't broke" but I do try to keep on top of maintenance, etc. If I were to do it, is there a guide somewhere for the PRV? or maybe it's in my Haynes manual, I will double check...

Thanks

Post by **billofdurham** » 12 Mar 2009, 16:28

It may be the valves which may never have been adjusted. Sometimes the timing chains develop a rattle but, unless it is very loud, that is not something to worry about.

If I were to do it, is there a guide somewhere for the PRV?

Of course there is:

760 valve adjustment.pdf: (990.38 KiB) Downloaded 133 times

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 13 Mar 2009, 17:32

Hi Bill, thanks for the guide. Just wondering, does the AC compressor have to come out of the way in order to take a valve covers off and adjust them?

Also, any harm in waiting for the snow to melt or should a valve adjustment be done post-haste?

Thanks again!

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Mar 2009, 12:44

Well, I guess I forgot to put that page in.

760 valve adjustment 2.pdf: (653.57 KiB) Downloaded 58 times

Also, any harm in waiting for the snow to melt or should a valve adjustment be done post-haste?

My son has just had a major engine job done on his Talbot Express (bet you don't have them over there). I know the mechanic who did it very well and he couldn't find any reference to the valve settings in any of his books, so he asked me. By this time the van was out on the road with a guesswork setting which was 3 thousands of an inch out. They rattle a little bit but the mech, whom I would trust with any of my or my family's vehicles, shrugged and said, "It won't harm it so bring it back after 6,000 miles and I'll adjust them."

No doubt he would tell you to let the snow melt.

Bill.

DeRail · Post by **DeRail** » 15 Mar 2009, 08:45

Once again, thanks for the help Bill! Will let everyone know how it turns out once I can get to it.