Buying 1986 240 - any words of wisdom/warning
Buying 1986 240 - any words of wisdom/warning
I am thinking about buying a 1986 240 wagon with 150000 miles for $1300. Body and interior are in excellent shape. Test drives fine. Just concerned about how long the engine's gonna last. Any words of experience would be appreciated
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Kmaniac in California USA
I have a 1986 740 GLE with 204,000 miles. The car runs great and passes California smog without issue. I would not hesitate to drive this car anywhere.
I know someone else with a late 1980's 240, with over 250,000 miles. He loves his car, as well, and drives it everywhere.
If you are one who works on your own cars and does not depend on a mechanic for routine maintenance and tune-ups, these are excellent cars. Beware of mechanics who can bleed you with nickle and dime issues.
I know someone else with a late 1980's 240, with over 250,000 miles. He loves his car, as well, and drives it everywhere.
If you are one who works on your own cars and does not depend on a mechanic for routine maintenance and tune-ups, these are excellent cars. Beware of mechanics who can bleed you with nickle and dime issues.
I have a low-mileage (164,000) 1985 245 GL. Runs great. Doesn't leak oil and the oil consumption is about 1 pint between oil changes (3000 mile intervals). It has never failed an emissions test at inspection (Pennsylvania).
Here are some issues you may encounter with this car:
The original main engine wiring harness was insulated with some kind of biodegrable insulation that deteriorated after about 7 years, leading to all sorts of weird electrical problems. I don't know if this same material was used in the 1986 model year. After replacing the wiring harness (with $ help from Volvo after I complained), there have been no electrical problems with the engine/charging/ignition systems.
On automatics, the overdrive relay tends to fail every four years or so.
The ball joints are teflon-lined and cannot be lubed. Mine need to be replaced every 30 to 40K miles. This is not a difficult DIY job if you buy the ball joints as a "kit".
The engine mounts tend to crack every three years or so.
An oft-overlooked maintenance item is the PCV flame trap. Be sure to clean the flame trap at least twice a year or every 7500 miles. If this trap gets clogged, pressure builds up in the crankcase and the engine/camshaft seals will start leaking oil. When oil leaks from the camshaft seals onto the timing belt, you'll have to replace the timing belt. Also, there have been reports of mechanics replacing leaking engine seals without correcting the clogged PCV system. Guess what... the seals will start leaking again within a few days.
On the wagons, the wiring to the tailgate comes through the hinges and is exposed to the weather. I think I've replaced these wires twice.
So, what's good?:
Mechanically rock-solid engine. No issues.
Transmission rebuilt at 127,000 miles. It's been fine since.
Suspension has been good except for the ball joint issue. Shocks and struts have held up well.
Brakes and exhaust system have had no real problems.
Car still has the original starter, alternator, fuel pumps, power steering pump, and A/C compressor.
I'm a boy scout leader and this is my "scout car". I regularly drive it on weekend trips (fully loaded with scouts and gear) of anywhere from 50 to 200 miles each way. It has never broken down (knock wood) in its entire life.
Here are some issues you may encounter with this car:
The original main engine wiring harness was insulated with some kind of biodegrable insulation that deteriorated after about 7 years, leading to all sorts of weird electrical problems. I don't know if this same material was used in the 1986 model year. After replacing the wiring harness (with $ help from Volvo after I complained), there have been no electrical problems with the engine/charging/ignition systems.
On automatics, the overdrive relay tends to fail every four years or so.
The ball joints are teflon-lined and cannot be lubed. Mine need to be replaced every 30 to 40K miles. This is not a difficult DIY job if you buy the ball joints as a "kit".
The engine mounts tend to crack every three years or so.
An oft-overlooked maintenance item is the PCV flame trap. Be sure to clean the flame trap at least twice a year or every 7500 miles. If this trap gets clogged, pressure builds up in the crankcase and the engine/camshaft seals will start leaking oil. When oil leaks from the camshaft seals onto the timing belt, you'll have to replace the timing belt. Also, there have been reports of mechanics replacing leaking engine seals without correcting the clogged PCV system. Guess what... the seals will start leaking again within a few days.
On the wagons, the wiring to the tailgate comes through the hinges and is exposed to the weather. I think I've replaced these wires twice.
So, what's good?:
Mechanically rock-solid engine. No issues.
Transmission rebuilt at 127,000 miles. It's been fine since.
Suspension has been good except for the ball joint issue. Shocks and struts have held up well.
Brakes and exhaust system have had no real problems.
Car still has the original starter, alternator, fuel pumps, power steering pump, and A/C compressor.
I'm a boy scout leader and this is my "scout car". I regularly drive it on weekend trips (fully loaded with scouts and gear) of anywhere from 50 to 200 miles each way. It has never broken down (knock wood) in its entire life.
Tom Finley
'97 854 T-5
'85 245 GL
'97 854 T-5
'85 245 GL
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Julia Greenwood
I agree with the previous comments. My '88 240 had over 200,000 miles on her when an idiot who shouldn't have been on the road killed her (and tried to kill me--I thank my Volvo for my life.) That car NEVER broke down even ONCE in all the years (6) I owned her, and I drove all over the US of A. Can't praise those 240s highly enough around here! 
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