122S 1967 Coil

kshale · Post by **kshale** » 08 Oct 2009, 11:29

i have a 67 122s with 60 K original miles. i use it only in summer and put on about 500 per year. Took it out of storage and it started fine. Then it would not start. Traced it back to the distributor which had a badly broken rotor. i fished out all pieces and replace rotor, cap, points, plugs, wires, but it still is not getting spark. A parts guy suggested I replace the coil with a "new" replacement by sawing through the armored cable of the old one so as to keep the dash key housing and use a new bosch coil. Did all that but still no spark. Any ideas? Anyone know where i can get an original coil? i hate having a new one, which didn't solve my problem. I hate not being able to start my 122 which has never not started!

thanks

Post by **JDS60R** » 08 Oct 2009, 11:49

I am not aware of an armoured cable but I can help you trouble shoot a spark issue.

I am assuming the primary resistance of the new coil is the same as the old on and that you replaced or checked any inline resistors.

Given that, its time to check the coil for voltage and signal. Take a test light and find if their is voltage going to the coil while the ignition switch is on.

If not - trace backwards and find where you lost voltage. Restor voltage and try to restart car.

If voltage at coil put test light on the negative side of the coil (no voltage with ignition on). Keep in mind you need positive B+ to the test light and the tip on the negative side of the coil. While turning over (cranking) the car you should see the light flash. This is the trigger signal. If you have voltage and a trigger signal then the coill should be sparking.

Test for spark with a spare spark lug on the coil wire while grounding the outside of the spark plug to the body of the car.

Let me know what you find

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 09 Jan 2010, 13:32

I am surprised that you would even listen to a part guy, most of them don't even know what a carb is and were born after your car was made.

If you still have a generator, you need a specific coil not a generic. No wires should have been cut/spliced. The voltage coming out of the coil should have been steady and tested with either a light or VOM.

When you cleaned out the distributer, did you check the gap of the points? Even a small piece of plastic could have been enough to keep the points apart.

Most of the 122s have a starter button installed because the ignition switch no longer turns to the start position. Check the wires at the starter switch and the ignition for continuity.

My favorite web site for the Amazon is www.brickboard.com which is down at the present time due to a technical difficulty. In the 120-130 forum, you will find expert help and leads to parts suppliers.

virg · Post by **virg** » 10 Apr 2010, 09:34

A 67 coil includes a resistor cable, which is inside that metal flex tube and a part of that assembly. 140 coils are without the flex cable arrangement, but the coils include proper resistance: that's how I beat this prob last time around. I'd rather use an ancient coil out of a junker (Bosch cables, too) than whatever generic parts stores supply.