Hi, I've been struggling with my dealer on this problem for about 9 months. My '99 V70 periodically stalls and won't restart. Sometimes when this happens I can pump the accelerator and keep it going, but sometimes it just won't restart until I wait about 10 minutes. Then it's fine for a day or a week or a month.
The only code this car has ever shown is 4308, and the dealer has read it perhaps 8 times, tried 3 different fixes - all to no avail. The light sill comes on again. But the stalling problem sometimes happens when the light is off and it does not throw a code.
The car does restart, but only momentarily. When the key is in the start position, gas is being delivered to the engine and it starts. But immediately upon releasing the key [from start to run], the car stalls. This can go on for 20+ starts. The only solution has been to wait.
Sometimes vigorously pumping the accelerator will make the car sort of keep running for a few seconds, but eventually it stalls.
It acts like it is not getting fuel. I have wondered whether it is a faulty throttle position sensor or connection to the TPS [if there is such a thing]. None of the other symptoms for failure of the throttle body seem to apply. The dealer did do a thorough cleaning of the throttle.
Any thoughts?
Paul
Minneapolis
1999 V70 - stalls and won't restart - throttle positon?
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Wrenchinjoe
- Posts: 75
- Joined: 15 May 2009
- Year and Model: V70 1999
- Location: Knoxville, TN
- Been thanked: 1 time
Lohma004,
I have been struggling with a similar problem lately. I am no expert, but I will share some info given to me in the event it helps you.
Ozark Lee recommended checking the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail the next time it exhibits the problem. That could help point to a failing fuel pump and/or a fuel pump relay. If your car starts then stalls immediately as you have described, and the OBDII throws no codes, that is another indicator of a failing fuel pump according to a local mechanic. There is a way to jump the terminals for the relay that can help determine whether the relay is bad or the pump itself is bad.
There is also an "Immobilizer" feature associated with your key and ignition switch. The key has a chip and the ignition switch has an antenna of sorts. If the the key/chip or antenna go bad, a faulty signal (or perhaps no signal) is sent to the computer, which then prevents the car from starting. My local mechanic suggested this as a likelihood if the fuel pump and relay check out ok. I have read that some have had success locking/unlocking the car with the remote 5 consecutive times to reset the immobilizer if that is the issue.
I'm not sure what code 4308 means... perhaps others could help with this. My V70 was throwing code P1081. My local mechanic's code reader detailed a fuel mixture/air mass error, so he now believes the MAF sensor is going bad. (However, that same code also points to the immobilizer when I researched checked it online.)
I tried the easy thing first. Volvomileage suggested that I clean my MAF sensor. Nothing lost in trying to clean it first, if it is bad then replacement is needed anyway. So far the stalling issue has not come back. (Keeping my fingers crossed on that one!) Although now the OBDII persistently throws a code P0135 for the front O2 sensor's heater going bad... still working out the kinks obviously.
Good luck with your V70, let me know what you find out.
WJ
I have been struggling with a similar problem lately. I am no expert, but I will share some info given to me in the event it helps you.
Ozark Lee recommended checking the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail the next time it exhibits the problem. That could help point to a failing fuel pump and/or a fuel pump relay. If your car starts then stalls immediately as you have described, and the OBDII throws no codes, that is another indicator of a failing fuel pump according to a local mechanic. There is a way to jump the terminals for the relay that can help determine whether the relay is bad or the pump itself is bad.
There is also an "Immobilizer" feature associated with your key and ignition switch. The key has a chip and the ignition switch has an antenna of sorts. If the the key/chip or antenna go bad, a faulty signal (or perhaps no signal) is sent to the computer, which then prevents the car from starting. My local mechanic suggested this as a likelihood if the fuel pump and relay check out ok. I have read that some have had success locking/unlocking the car with the remote 5 consecutive times to reset the immobilizer if that is the issue.
I'm not sure what code 4308 means... perhaps others could help with this. My V70 was throwing code P1081. My local mechanic's code reader detailed a fuel mixture/air mass error, so he now believes the MAF sensor is going bad. (However, that same code also points to the immobilizer when I researched checked it online.)
I tried the easy thing first. Volvomileage suggested that I clean my MAF sensor. Nothing lost in trying to clean it first, if it is bad then replacement is needed anyway. So far the stalling issue has not come back. (Keeping my fingers crossed on that one!) Although now the OBDII persistently throws a code P0135 for the front O2 sensor's heater going bad... still working out the kinks obviously.
Good luck with your V70, let me know what you find out.
WJ
Base model V70, Silver Sand Metallic, vinyl seats, 132K miles, IPD HD spring seats
WJ,
Thanks for the reply. I will check the key/antenna angle.
The 4308 code indicates that the fuel system is not pressurizing or has a leak somewhere. This can be as simple as a loose gas cap or a vacuum leak. My dealer has changed the sensor, replaced a vacuum hose and also told me that my gas cap was loose. This has been going on for at least the last 7 years.
The easiest way to reset the code is to disconnect the battery for awhile. The code gets reset and often stays off for months at a time.
Hopefully someone else has come up against this stalling issue and can provide some insight ... assuming it's not the key.
Thanks.
Paul
Thanks for the reply. I will check the key/antenna angle.
The 4308 code indicates that the fuel system is not pressurizing or has a leak somewhere. This can be as simple as a loose gas cap or a vacuum leak. My dealer has changed the sensor, replaced a vacuum hose and also told me that my gas cap was loose. This has been going on for at least the last 7 years.
The easiest way to reset the code is to disconnect the battery for awhile. The code gets reset and often stays off for months at a time.
Hopefully someone else has come up against this stalling issue and can provide some insight ... assuming it's not the key.
Thanks.
Paul
I'm going to take one more stab at running through my thinking on this. I hope someone can poke a hole to two in my rationale.
I don't think this can be a key chip/antenna problem (though I will check that theory next time this happens) because the car does restart. It just won't stay running. It also leads me to think that this is not a fuel pump issue.
The car does restart each and every time I try to restart the car. Fuel is delivered and the car fires up. The problem comes when I release the key from the "start" position back to the "run" position. This is where it stalls over and over again. So, it seems like the fuel pump is working as the car is getting fuel to restart.
My guess is that when the key is in the start position, the computer instructs the car to send fuel and spark and overrides other systems in the car. When in the "run" position, the computer then looks for the various sensors to tell it what is actually happening. This is why I wonder if this is a throttle-position sensor issue, though my understanding is that the car should be tripping a code if that sensor is not working. If the car can't find the position of the throttle, it may be shutting off fuel.
There has been no rhyme or reason to "when" this problem occurs though it always begins to occur when the car is running, not when I'm starting it for the first time. This has happened a couple of times after I have hit a large bump in the road. It has happened when driving down the road with the cruise control on at 70 mph. It has happened sitting idling at a stop light.
It seems to be a situation where fuel is no longer being delivered though I can imagine that the same result would occur if no spark was present.
So: Key - I don't think so.
Fuel pump itself - I don't think so.
Fuel pump relay - perhaps, but only if it is out of the system on start-up and I don't think that that is true.
Other ideas are more than welcome.
Paul
I don't think this can be a key chip/antenna problem (though I will check that theory next time this happens) because the car does restart. It just won't stay running. It also leads me to think that this is not a fuel pump issue.
The car does restart each and every time I try to restart the car. Fuel is delivered and the car fires up. The problem comes when I release the key from the "start" position back to the "run" position. This is where it stalls over and over again. So, it seems like the fuel pump is working as the car is getting fuel to restart.
My guess is that when the key is in the start position, the computer instructs the car to send fuel and spark and overrides other systems in the car. When in the "run" position, the computer then looks for the various sensors to tell it what is actually happening. This is why I wonder if this is a throttle-position sensor issue, though my understanding is that the car should be tripping a code if that sensor is not working. If the car can't find the position of the throttle, it may be shutting off fuel.
There has been no rhyme or reason to "when" this problem occurs though it always begins to occur when the car is running, not when I'm starting it for the first time. This has happened a couple of times after I have hit a large bump in the road. It has happened when driving down the road with the cruise control on at 70 mph. It has happened sitting idling at a stop light.
It seems to be a situation where fuel is no longer being delivered though I can imagine that the same result would occur if no spark was present.
So: Key - I don't think so.
Fuel pump itself - I don't think so.
Fuel pump relay - perhaps, but only if it is out of the system on start-up and I don't think that that is true.
Other ideas are more than welcome.
Paul
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tboothe33
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 6 July 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: Northern Virginia
- Been thanked: 1 time
I have a 99 V70 and experienced the same problem. We spent $1800 and it just would not fix. Finally, and this sounds strange - we figured out that the botton on the shift stick sticks. If that button is stuck in when you turn the car off, the car will not start until it is popped out again. Also, we found it would not start if the wheels were not straight when we parked it. We found this out last January and have been paying attention ever since and have not had one start problem since. Not very technical, I know, but I swear it worked!
07 V70 XC (mine!)
I have a similar problem with my 1999 V70. It starts if the car has been parked for a while. I can drive for about 5 to 10 min and then suddenly it turnes off. It may turn off while in motion or stopped. Seems to me this happens when the car warms up. I also get the P0135 Code. Any ideas how to fix?
The dealer replaced the throttle which "seems" to have cured the problem though it has stuttered and couple of times and stopped once. In that instance though it started right back up and ran fine. The fact that you are having this problem with the car warms up is familiar. I could always drive the car when it was cold and the only times it wouldn't restart were after it had been running for awhile. I don't know what the P0135 code is. Do you?
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egads
- Posts: 89
- Joined: 31 March 2009
- Year and Model: S70 98 XC90 08 C40
- Location: Canberra, Australia
I had something similar that was very intermittent due to running cold air intake ant cooling thermostat stuck open, would happen if temps hit around 95 degrees C.
New ETM, new MAF and new cooling system thermostat and has not happened since. My MAF only probably needed a clean but had been dirty for some time so though it might as well be replaced while I was getting the throttle from FCP.
To test you can probably clean the MAF with MAF/Electrical contact cleaner and if that does not help then clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush.
New ETM, new MAF and new cooling system thermostat and has not happened since. My MAF only probably needed a clean but had been dirty for some time so though it might as well be replaced while I was getting the throttle from FCP.
To test you can probably clean the MAF with MAF/Electrical contact cleaner and if that does not help then clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush.
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