airbags deployed; how do I repair it?

dudlo · Post by **dudlo** » 13 Oct 2009, 16:17

Thanks to all that frequent this forum and help strangers. I've benefited from reading the posts here for quite some time.

I've hit a pothole with my '96 850. It was a dip at at he end of an incline (think exiting a commercial garage). Both airbags deployed, burned my hand (not requiring doctor's visit), badly cracked the windshield on passenger side, and busted the dashboard vents and speakers. I see no damage on the bumper or the underbelly (even the splash pan looks fine!)

When I turn the key on the car honks all the time. I did not try to turn the engine on. When I coasted after the airbags deployed the engine was revving very high for a few seconds before I realized it and turned it off.

How do I repair it? The stealer claims I need everything replaced (body shop and all). I'd like to approach it in stages:
- start the car and see if everything works. I hope the high-revving was a fluke and did not cause engine damage
- replace things that really need to be replaced. I see that there are plenty airbags (driver and passenger) and control modules on eBay. I understand I may need seat belts and the airbag sensor (in the bumper?).

However, I'd like to bypass the system first to make sure there is no mechanical damage done to the car. Is there a way to "reset" something so that I can drive the car? I have somewhat old OBD scan system ("Car Code OBD-2") that can read and reset some codes but I am not sure if it can handle this.

Thank you for any advice/links,
Peter

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 13 Oct 2009, 16:36

If the air bags have deployed they can't deploy again. The SIPS bags are on a completely different system so you should have no fear of them deploying unless you happen to be in the car when someone slams into the side.

You can pick up new air bags and seatbelt reels on eBay or from a salvage yard like Erie Vovo, replace them all, and have the code reset. If the stealership gives you static about resetting the SIPS you can buy VOL-FCR software and a VAG-COM cable and reset it yourself.

Go ahead and start the car without fear and see what happens. If it revs high check the throttle to make sure it isn't stuck.

...Lee

dudlo · Post by **dudlo** » 13 Oct 2009, 18:24

Lee,

Thank you very much for your response.

I unplugged the horns to get rid of the annoying noise (it may be that the blown bag keeps the horn button on all the time). The car started right up but went into high revving. I shut it off at 4,000 - after about a second. I tried to put it into reverse and it lowered it to some 1,500-2,000 but I do not want to experiment too much in this condition.

The throttle looks good - it is clean and it moves fine; it rests in the closed position.

The engine underframe is whacked pretty badly - to the point I may have hard time removing the oil filter. Perhaps I damaged some sensor? But I do not recall any sensor down there. All fluids - engine, tranny oil, coolant are fine and full (no leaks). Perhaps I need to treat the high revving as a separate problem.

Thanks for your advice,
Peter

iselloil · Post by **iselloil** » 13 Oct 2009, 18:41

Find a independdant body shop that does volvo repair.Go in and talk to the owner.Most small shops dont mind giving some advice.

Post by **holler1** » 14 Oct 2009, 17:49

Two suggestions. Sounds like you got the hood open OK. I would check around the throttle and intake area to see if something is bent or broken or moved out of place or stuck. I can't think of many other things that would keep the throttle wide open, although I suppose there could be some ECU damage. I would look for mechanical things first. You might also want to check to make sure the timing belt is intact before running it too much. Secondly, the horn "always on" makes me wonder if something is grounded that shouldn't be on the lower side of the engine or around the grille area.

dudlo · Post by **dudlo** » 15 Oct 2009, 16:22

holler1,

Thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I'll definitely investigate the electrical/ground issue - it is a great advice.

I need to drag the car inside my garage over the weekend, see the underside, and check all sensors and connectors. Like I said earlier the engine underframe took a beating.

I am pretty sure the engine is OK mechanically - it starts right up and sounds OK (other than immediately climbing to 4,000+ rpm). I spent three weekends over summer doing head job - replacing burnt exhaust valves. So the head, timing gear and all that stuff is pretty new. In fact, if it weren't for that sweat equity I would have given up - replacing both airbags, seat belts (one or both?), windshield... this is a mess. After so much work I've invested into the engine I plan to stick with the car.

Thank you for the advice,
Peter

dudlo · Post by **dudlo** » 26 Oct 2009, 14:43

Thanks to all that provided help and advice. I have fixed the problem over this weekend. It was mechanical - I had to adjust the throttle cable using the plastic adjustment screw near the throttle body.

The engine subframe is badly bent. The front part is bent by 90 degrees and crushed. It ruined the engine mounts. Most likely it pushed the whole engine some 1" back - that's why the cable needed adjustment. The throttle was partially opened all the time. Once I adjusted the cable length it worked fine (started and idled normally).

Now I need to add engine subframe replacement to the list of my projects. Stupid me for messing it so badly.

Thanks again for all advice,
Peter