Installation of control arm question

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 18 Nov 2009, 15:44

I installed my control arm and I had to wedge it in to get it to fit.

I did not have a press to move the bushings in the control arm, otherwise it would have just slid in fine.
I did use scan tech (a no-no and I may go ahead and pony up for the OEM).

My first question is this: Should the control arm be so difficult to put in the subframe?

Second:
I got an alignment done and it steers straight when you hold the steering wheel straight. However when you let go, the steering wheel turns right.
Any ideas what maybe causing this?

thx.

loub · Post by **loub** » 18 Nov 2009, 17:04

I have only replaced two control arms.The first one was Volvo OEM and I did have to pry it in with a large pinch bar.The second one was from Dorman for one third of the price,this one I had even a harder time getting it to fit in the subframe.The Dorman was installed after the 96 850 had been in a front side minor collision [replaced fender,header panel,headlight assembly] I believe that is why it was harder to get the arm in. As far as your alignment problem,I would take it back to the shop. In my opinion it should not drift after an alignment.

xb corp · Post by **xb corp** » 18 Nov 2009, 18:09

outdoor man,
if everything's fine, but the car still pull to side, check the position of the subframe. because the control arms are mounted to it, and if its not correctly mounted to the chasis, it might give you bad alignment.

you will see there are 4 points of the subframe, bolted to the body by 4.5" long size 18 bolts.check if these bolts are at the center of the subframe mounting. if it is not, loose it up and use hydraulic to pull it to the correct position.

but usually the subframe only moves due to heavy impact (collision etc)..other than that i dont think it can easily shifted..

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Nov 2009, 18:14

They can be tough to get in and out since it is very difficult to line them up at precisely the perfect angle at both bushings and put them in simultaneously. I just wind up walking mine on from side to side until I get close and then use a screwdriver to bring the holes to center.

If you put on the Scan Techs you will get another opportunity to perfect your skills quite soon.

...Lee

Post by **confused_al** » 18 Nov 2009, 18:35

outdoor7or24 wrote:Should the control arm be so difficult to put in the subframe?

I had to struggle quite bit to put my pass side control arm n ( I think it has alot to do w/ my wife's ironing curbs on this side a few times). Since you'll do this again soon, check the brackets on the subframe and see they are straight and lined up.

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 18 Nov 2009, 21:16

Thanks for the tips, I will check the subframe bushings and see what they look like and report back.

Maybe it is just related to something in the suspension.

Madspeed · Post by **Madspeed** » 19 Nov 2009, 00:48

I think your all of track. the problem is tires or a poor alignment. My vote is poor alignment as your alignment tech should have NEVER let it leave without a test drive. Did you get an before and after printout? ,ale sure your tires are properly inflated and not seperating. you really just need a quality technician

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 19 Nov 2009, 04:12

Madspeed wrote:I think your all of track. the problem is tires or a poor alignment. My vote is poor alignment as your alignment tech should have NEVER let it leave without a test drive. Did you get an before and after printout? ,ale sure your tires are properly inflated and not seperating. you really just need a quality technician

new tires, inflation checked, tire shop has done several alignments for me just fine before...

I'll post back what i find out.