98 S70 GLT Turbo Valve Job - Need Manual

2bad · Post by **2bad** » 03 Dec 2009, 19:35

My volvo repair guys say I have two burnt exhaust valves in one cylinder on my 98 S70 Turbo. It runs on four but, of course, not anything you can put up with. I decided no way on paying them $1400 labor on top of the unavoidable $700 machine shop charge to fix the head. I've never gone this far into a motor but I have decided to take the plunge and take the head off myself. My best mechanical adviser says start by reading the manual. Probably a good idea. I would like to get a factory engine repair manual if I could. I know volvo breaks (or used to) their factory repair manuals down into a bunch of specific systems. I guess everything I need would be under engine or motor.

Anybody know where I can download an engine repair manual for a 98 S70 GLT Turbo? Or, if not, where a good source would be to order one? I am hoping to find something with as much detail as possible. I assume the Volvo factory manual would have the most detail if I can get one somehow. This is all going to be new information to me - the more the better.

Thanks for your suggestions!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 03 Dec 2009, 20:29

The Haynes 850 manual is 99% accurate for your car. I know of no S/V series manuals for your car from Haynes and even if Chiltons does have an manual, why bother - they are worthless. The procedure in the Haynes 850 manual will get you through a head replacement.

Advance Auto Parts can get you a Haynes manual within 24 hours on special order, at least the store in Mission did for me.

The $700 to get the head reworked seems harsh. You can buy a re-manufactured head from Clearwater Cylinder Heads for around $450.00 but there is some freight involved. Many of our members have had excellent reviews on the quality of the Clearwater heads. I have no personal knowledge with them though.

If the car never overheated you might even be able to lap in a couple of new exhaust valves in the bad cylinder but I would be very suspect of that approach since this job isn't like changing spark plugs, it is labor intensive and the cost of the head gasket kit ands the new head bolts adds up quickly.

What shop are you using? If your diagnosis came from KC Autosport I would totally believe it, they have proven themselves to be honest and trustworthy to me. Anything from Superior is a ripoff +40% on parts and half the time I think they are just guessing.

...Lee

2bad · Post by **2bad** » 03 Dec 2009, 21:42

Thanks, Lee.

Maybe a new head is the way to go. I do use KC Autosport and have no complaint with them at all. When they fix a Volvo it's FIXED! Their expertise is worth their rate, but, unfortunately, my car is not. I am very confident of their diagnosis - I paid $93 for it. But they can't estimate cost better than to say the book pays 14 hours and the machine shop decides how much to do once they see the head - and the total could easily be $2100 or more - which ain't in the cards OR my wallet. Somebody else told me machine shop charge could be up to $700 so that all seems to fit.

I don't really expect heads to go past 200K without problems and that's where I have had problems on two other Volvos. Why do people keep telling me Volvo motors/heads should last 500 thousand miles? Don't get me wrong, Volvo is what I buy. I just don't understand where this 500K mile talk comes from. Doesn't sound reasonable to me for any car. Stuff wears out, y'know?

wjhandy850 · Post by **wjhandy850** » 04 Dec 2009, 06:34

You may be better off finding a used engine, at that point. I had my head replaced @ 2 months ago with a rebuilt head. I have been fighting the increased head pressure since. Make sure that PCV is very clean. The LP turbo adds to the issue with its near constant boost. Older bottom end with new top end is the problem that you may face.

scigarzz · Post by **scigarzz** » 04 Dec 2009, 07:38

you can do this job
when i bought my 98 s70, it smoked like a chimmney, and after plenty of research i found out it was the turbo seals. i never owned a volvo before or a turbo charged engine, so i took plenty of pictures from ALL angles and took it apart. when i get into an engine that i am not famillar with, i grab a big cardboard box, when i take off some bolts, i stick them into the box and with a sharpie mark on the box what the bolts are for.
i did not have a manual, and got this job done in about a week. including the shipping time from florida to utah for the turbo rebuild. just take plenty of pic's cause u never know how long before u get it back together
you CAN do this !!

2bad · Post by **2bad** » 04 Dec 2009, 19:25

What is "increased head pressure"? Do you mean compression? And, if so, what would have caused it to increase if the head was serviced correctly?

wjhandy850 · Post by **wjhandy850** » 04 Dec 2009, 21:51

This was explained to me as to the fact that the valves wear as do the cylinder walls over time in a somewhat predictable way. The new valves seal to original spec but the bottom end will have to deal with the added compression which shows up in the form of crankcase pressure. The PCV system can become overwhelmed if the pressure builds up. It really depends on how well off the cylinders are. The PVC system will have to be ready to deal with it...very clean. This has been my experience.