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1989 760 Turbo Wagon kind-of dead! help!

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jenniferjane
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 January 2010
Year and Model: '89 wagon
Location: Albuquerque

1989 760 Turbo Wagon kind-of dead! help!

Post by jenniferjane »

Hey there,

I have a 1989 760 Turbo Wagon and it mysteriously broke down on me earlier last week. I’m hoping for save a bit of money figuring out what’s wrong.

Before it died the radio turned on an off a few times, then I was stopped at a stoplight and it basically chugged a few times, and turned off. When I turned the key to idle (half-way) all of the dashboard lights go on, the headlights and the windows work (radio is still being weird) but when I tried to turn it all the way everything either goes off or dims, and nothing works- there’s no clicking, nothing. Dead.

A day later I went out to see if it would turn on and it did, for about 10 seconds then chug chug chug- dead. Same thing with the idle key, and same no-sound-nothing when turned all the way on. I left it in idle and checked the headlights and they didn’t appear to dim.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? My Volvo guy isn’t cheap, and I’m hoping this is an easy/cheap fix! I am able to take photos and post them on here if it helps anyone.

Thanks!

lummert
Posts: 1381
Joined: 29 January 2008
Year and Model: 760 1988
Location: Portland Indiana, USA
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Post by lummert »

i don't know if this matches you cars symptoms, but, for about two months I tried to figure out what was causing my aftermarket stereo to turn itself off and then back on. I finally figured that the radio would turn off when taking off from a stop and the turn back on at the next stop.

Finally one day my battery was dead and I need a jump start to get started. I hooked up a digital meter and found that my alternator output at idle was 16.25 volts. At highway speed the alternator output was over 18.35 volts. I replaced the alternator and battery and now the radio works fine. Car works fine also.

this is on my 1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Intercooler Wagon.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

jenniferjane, welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

lummert has given you one possibility which is easily checked if you have a digital voltmeter or a multimeter or know someone who has, and will let you borrow it. Better still don't borrow it, let him/her come and use it and stand out in the cold. :)

First check is the battery voltage with the engine switched off. Easy to do by simultaneously touching the red lead to the + post on the battery and the black lead to the - post.

A reading of 12.66 volts indicates a fully charged battery; 12.45 volts is 75% charged, 12.24 volts is 50% charged, and 12.06 volts is 25% charged. Under 12 volts the battery is dead.

If this is satisfactory, and you can get the engine to start, test the battery with the engine idling. You should get a reading around 14 volts.

The next thing is the electrical portion of the ignition switch. They do wear out and yours is probably the original. One of the ways to find if it is a worn switch is to turn the key to the start position and jiggle it around whilst holding it in the start position. This usually results in the switch making a contact and the engine starting. If it dies as soon as you let go of the key you most likely have a dodgy switch.

The electric portion of the switch can be bought separately and we can give the instructions for fitting it.

Now a personal question - how many keys do you have on the key ring with your car keys?

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

jenniferjane
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 January 2010
Year and Model: '89 wagon
Location: Albuquerque

Post by jenniferjane »

Thanks Bill!

So, I have perhaps located one of those battery testers, and in the meantime I did the key test. When it's in the start position and I wiggle the keys it made a clicking noise, didnt turn over, and when I let go it went back to idle. I'm not sure if that helps any?

As for how many keys I have- three house keys and then the car key, plus one big gawdy boot key chain... that does put a tad bit of weight on it, however it's only been on my key chain for maybe three months.

Thanks again,

Jennifer

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billofdurham
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Post by billofdurham »

As for how many keys I have- three house keys and then the car key, plus one big gawdy boot key chain... that does put a tad bit of weight on it, however it's only been on my key chain for maybe three months.
That's not many but you did know what I was after. The weight can play havoc with the ignition lock.
When it's in the start position and I wiggle the keys it made a clicking noise, didnt turn over, and when I let go it went back to idle.
Where was the clicking noise coming from, the ignition lock or the starter?

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

mikealder
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Location: Blackpool
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Post by mikealder »

Check the starter cable (the big thick positive wire) from the battery that goes direct to the starter motor, it can rub through the insulation on the chassis rail and short the car electrics out.

First sign of this issue is normally the radio playing up followed by an engine miss fire and total power loss, if the cable manages to weld itself to the chassis next is a fire - I would check the cable over as I have had this happen on both 740's I owned and they were both 1989 models - Mike

jenniferjane
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 January 2010
Year and Model: '89 wagon
Location: Albuquerque

Post by jenniferjane »

The clicking was coming from the engine, I believe, not from inside the car.

And Mike- The day before the car died entirely the radio started flicking on and off (not while going over bumps or corners either) and died in full before the car itself did. Interesting. Tomorrow when it's light out I'll check this cable- what would I have to do to fix if this is the problem?

mikealder
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Post by mikealder »

jenniferjane wrote:what would I have to do to fix if this is the problem?
A new starter cable and add plenty of PVC tape to the area where its close to the chassis, I clipped mine up to ensure it cannot rub on the chassis after it let go - Mike

jenniferjane
Posts: 5
Joined: 2 January 2010
Year and Model: '89 wagon
Location: Albuquerque

Post by jenniferjane »

Ok, so an update on what has since happened since I last posted:

The battery was entirely dead, we charged it overnight and the car turned over just fine. We tested the alternator and according to the machine the guy used its broken.

So I'm hoping to fix this as cheaply as possible. I've heard about shops that'll fix the broken alternator instead of charging $300 for a new one. Anyone have any insight to this? Would someone on this forum magically be in Albuquerque and know where I could have this done that's trustworthy? I've heard there's a lot of not-so-legitimate car shops here. Thanks!

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RobTheModd
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Post by RobTheModd »

Shop around.
Try VolvoSpeed.com

Just post in the wanted what your looking for, and you dont want to spend to much. Usually you'll get a pm within a few hours.

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