00 T6 Timing Belt Tensioner Broken

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 10 Jan 2010, 20:17

Hello,

A few weeks ago I purchased a 00 S80 T6 with 200,000km. The car was not in running condition due to the tensioner letting go. I started working on it today and would like to first do a compression test before taking the head off.

I checked the timing and according to the tiny mark on the crankshaft pulley(took me forever to see it) I concluded that the cam gears are 90 degrees too far clockwise. My plan is to replace the tensioner and reline up the timing. From there do a compression test.

I will eventually replace the wp/timing belt/idler when I know everything that is wrong with it (bent valves etc..)

Can you tell me if there is any other marks on the crank area other than the tiny raised 4-5mm line on the timing belt crank pulley? I put an arrow on how its located (on the cam pic) so just pretend thats the crank pulley.

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 23 Jan 2010, 13:19

Hey Guys,

Today I got the new tensioner on and wanted to see compression.

I remember when I checked it before (broken tensioner) that I was getting tight spots when I spun the crank with a wrench...

So now I set the timing, bottom mark lined up and two cam marks lined up, and I am not getting any tight spots when I turn the crank pulley with a wrench..

The first time I set it with the exhaust cam turned so the mark is pointing upwards ( I spun it counter clockwise until it lines up.

The it clockwise until I felt a hard stop (hard stop means cam is starting to turn)second time I advanced the exhaust cam until the spring was fully tensioned (by advancing

With either method I am not getting tight spots even with the plugs in the engine.

Can you guys let me know the proper way the exhaust cam is to be set?

The manual says to spin crank clockwise until lines up , then 180 degrees more clockwise , and then turn it back counter clockwise until the lines all line up.

I am just not sure the proper way of the spring in the exhaust cam.... I dont have the cam holder tool, so my dad spins the crank while I slip on the belt onto the cam (it works) and I get it all lined up...

This is an indication that either the timing is still way off.. I don't really see how it can be, or the valves are all messed. I just don't understand why it was so much harder to turn before I took the timing belt off with the old tensioner..

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 Jan 2010, 13:52

The following thread has directions on camshaft alignment. Hopefully they apply to your car.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 10&t=26251

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 23 Jan 2010, 15:45

Tomorrow I will remove those covers where the "special tool" attaches. If the two cams are parallel so the tool would fit inside, it means my valves are messed up. I am about 99% sure they are at this point..

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 24 Jan 2010, 19:24

Today I took off the cam sensor (exhaust cam) and cover on intake cam. The slots in the cams were lined up so that told me my timing was ok, and had an issue with valves..

I then started taking the engine apart. I knew the cam cover would be a pain so my only goal was to get it off today... It took about 3 hours but it came out without any damage.. Lots of tapping all around...

Anyways here are some pics..

I was thinking to take the intake off with the head. Next time I need to work on getting the exhaust manifold bolts. The materials used on these cars are so much better than jap cars. Every bolt comes off without trouble, unlike rusted Honda's and Toyota's...

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 24 Jan 2010, 19:29

If you blow compressed air into the spark plug holes does it come out the intake or exhaust manifolds?

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 25 Jan 2010, 07:32

hmm I didn't try that .. good idea though. Im just going to take the head off and re-do everything.. There were other "minor" problems I noticed yesterday. One o-ring for the spark plug (between cam cover and head) was leaking oil into spark plug hole. One fuel injector is seeping out a bit.. So I want to clean everything up, reseal it and how its done right.. I hope haha..

In alldatadiy they say to remove the right side axle (I am guessing to have easier access to the exhaust manifold bolts. I really hope I don't have to do that. I can see all of them on the passenger side manifold, The drivers is going to be tougher... Any tips for that?

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 29 Jan 2010, 11:33

Hello Guys,

Alright, got the head off.. Every intake valve is bent haha. It looks kinda funny..

Anyways.. Biggest problem right now is the broken head bolt. I read a few cases of this happening. I thought the thread goes until the top of the block, however it does not and is sunk over an inch below the block. Any tips on taking this out? I was thinking center punch, drill very small hole and try easy out?? I think this is the only way (that I know how)..

Here are some pics..

Post by **JDS60R** » 29 Jan 2010, 13:12

Your idea is sound but try this first.

Spray penetrant oil on the broken stud and give it time to work. Strike the bolt (looks like you will need a punch as it is recessed into the block) with a hammer several times. Hit it hard - I use a 3lb hammer with a strong puch or old 3/8 extention with a flat end. Smetimes this breaks the bond and allows the penetrant to get in deeper. I smack it several times every 15 minutes (giving penetrant a chance in between).

If it releases the tension sometimes you cn just turn it out with a screwdriver touching the part thats left.

Good luck and please let us know how you succeed.

00_Coupe · Post by **00_Coupe** » 31 Jan 2010, 11:45

Hello,

I did some more work today. Took the intercooler out because I didn't like the layer of grease on the hoses. Im going to soak it in varsol/gasoline to clean it out.

Still haven't gotten the head bolt out, need to get some better tools.

Can you guys tell me common leak points of the power steering pump? The pump is covered in oil as you can see in the pic, and its coming down on the alternator..I don't really know where its leaking..

Who sais there not enough room to work on this engine. Look at all the room, you can climb in the engine bay..