TIming Belt change Q's for first timer.

Tractoman · Post by **Tractoman** » 14 Jan 2010, 10:39

I have read and searched and still have a couple questions. First are there any special tools needed? I have a serp belt tool, torque wrenches, torques bits (star shaped) and metric sockets, wrenches etc. Also, any need for air tools? I normally take the wheel off with air, but is it helpful for any other stuff in this process? I am ready to do a waterpump if necessary, but think I should do it while I am in there regardless. How long do they last and should I use RTV on the gasket? When refilling the coolant, it just goes back into the reservoir and makes its way to the rad? It is the second T belt for this car at 140k. Any other tips? I am prepared to replace the tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, waterpump, serp belt tensioner pulley and the serp belt idler pulley.
Thanks

Post by **firekiller75** » 14 Jan 2010, 11:09

Only special tool is a suggested one: the cam lock tool. It's fairly inexpensive through IPD but worth its weight in gold for peace of mind!

Did both of mine without use of the air compressor.

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 14 Jan 2010, 12:00

+1

No need for any air tools. I second the cam looking tool. It is not need per say, but it is worth it for piece of mind.

Post by **wheelsup** » 14 Jan 2010, 13:34

I actually don't think you need the cam locking tool. If you move the cams just put the cover back on and re-align them.

I too did it without the use of air tools, although they would've made it faster.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Jan 2010, 13:42

I have replaced the water pumps on all of mine. One of them, while not leaking, was tearing itself up internally at the 140k interval. Another one of them was just fine at 140k but I changed it anyway and the third one had started to leak at the 210k interval. The factory gasket is dry but I use a thin coat of RTV on the replacements, mainly to hold the gasket in place.

Refilling the coolant is done by filling it through the overflow tank. You will likely need to top it off again the first couple of times you drive the car.

...Lee

Tractoman · Post by **Tractoman** » 14 Jan 2010, 13:46

Thanks Lee for your write-up. It has given me the balls to do this myself. I am going to atleast zip tie the cam gears together to keep them from getting too crazy on me.

Post by **misha** » 14 Jan 2010, 17:00

firekiller75 wrote:Only special tool is a suggested one: the cam lock tool.

What about the tool(i don't know how you call it)...it's purpose is for proper tightening of the bolts?It measures tightening volume.

Is it required or not?

Post by **phils94850** » 14 Jan 2010, 17:46

misha

i just did two timing belt jobs in the past week, you dont need the locking tool. Before you take the belt off just use something to make marks so you know where everything is when you line it all back up.

The tool is just too make sure the cam gears dont move while your removing and installing the timing belt.

search timing belt and youll find a ton of info and everyone on here is willing to help

Post by **misha** » 14 Jan 2010, 18:02

I'm not talking about cam locking tool.

I was talking about the tool for proper bolts tightening,but i don't know how it's called.

In Serbia we're calling it Kilo-key or Nm-key.

The tool is for measuring tightening force.

Post by **Pauloil** » 14 Jan 2010, 18:58

probably not room for a torque wrench in this work
most of these bolts would be tightened by feel. kind of like you do plugs, the steering pump mounting bolts, etc.