Swapping a T5 Engine Out

850 Turbo1 · Post by **850 Turbo1** » 24 Apr 2010, 20:26

Hi Folks,

As some of you many know I have lost compression(0 PSI) in one of my cylinders ( #2 ) . The solution I have opted for is to just replace my engine(150,000 miles) with a lower mileage engine(88,000 miles) .

This job is going to surely cost me a fortune so I would like to make sure it is done in the best way possible.

I would like to replace all the stuff that I should while I have both pieces out of the car.

Should I replace the rear main seal while the engine and transmission is out?
Should I replace any gaskets or other parts while while the engine and transmission is out?
Any mounts?
Any suspension components?
Any steering components?

I would like to kill as many birds with one stone as possible.

Thank you all so much! I will try to document this job as much as possible!!!

Post by **JDS60R** » 24 Apr 2010, 20:59

Your call on this one but with no pressure its usually only a valve.

Swap it all while out. Do all the seals, the timing belt and pump . If you don't know the motor then its great to replace the sum o rings while its out.

After that check the cv shafts, innner and outer tie rods and replace the cv shaft seals at the trans.

Did you ever do a leak down test ? what did it show?

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 Apr 2010, 23:55

Absolutely. All seals should be changed, along with any hoses you can get your hands on.

Any mounts that look busted up. CV joints/axles are more of a "your call" at this point; they're not TOO hard to change later.

I'd agree with the sump O-rings. Easier to do while you've got the engine out - I know mine need to be changed at some point.

eVolv · Post by **eVolv** » 25 Apr 2010, 01:33

Do it all while its out, its much easier then when its in.

850 Turbo1 · Post by **850 Turbo1** » 25 Apr 2010, 12:53

JDS60R wrote:Your call on this one but with no pressure its usually only a valve.

Swap it all while out. Do all the seals, the timing belt and pump . If you don't know the motor then its great to replace the sum o rings while its out.

After that check the cv shafts, innner and outer tie rods and replace the cv shaft seals at the trans.

Did you ever do a leak down test ? what did it show?

Hey John,
How are you?

I am also quite sure that this is only a valve but I think it may be better long term to just replace the whole engine with a lesser mileage one. I paid just under 400 dollars for this engine (less than 88,000 miles....at-least that's what the junk yard manager told me.) It apparently came from an accidental(side accident) 96 850 Vin 57 .

What came as an added bonus was the 15G turbo (the one that belongs to the engine) and a free delivery. I believe they either forgot or got lazy about removing the turbo.

I got the engine from a yard Called #9 Auto Wreckers ( www.number9auto.com ) I've been given a 120 day return guarantee .

When you you say replace all the seals...do they have a more specific name ...just so that I may buy the right seals?

I never did a leak down test, unfortunately I don't have the equipment.

Thanks !

850 Turbo1 · Post by **850 Turbo1** » 25 Apr 2010, 12:58

jablackburn wrote:Absolutely. All seals should be changed, along with any hoses you can get your hands on.

Any mounts that look busted up. CV joints/axles are more of a "your call" at this point; they're not TOO hard to change later.

I'd agree with the sump O-rings. Easier to do while you've got the engine out - I know mine need to be changed at some point.

Hello Justin,
When you say all the hoses I can get my hands on...I would look towards getting them all...but do you know if FCP has them and do they have specific names?

Thanks!

850 Turbo1 · Post by **850 Turbo1** » 25 Apr 2010, 13:45

I've uploaded some compressed pictures of my new engine. Lots of hoses and wires seem to be cut should I transplant the good ones from my old engine to the new one?

Oh and one thing...the flywheel I've been told needs to be replaced ...it is slightly bent and doesn't turn no matter what...is that an easy replacement...can I just use the one on my old engine?

Post by **jblackburn** » 25 Apr 2010, 13:48

Upper & lower radiator hoses, heater hoses & o-rings, transmission and oil cooler lines (if they look crummy - they're expensive things), and coolant lines to/from the turbo.

If you have trouble finding any let me know, and I'll try to help you find them. I believe FCP has most of them. Also, stay away from URO hoses if at all possible, I wasn't impressed with the radiator hose I got from them and ended up buying one from the dealer instead. They're squishy and un-reinforced and don't seem like they'll hold up well in the long run, especially for something as essential as a radiator hose.

I saw in that last picture the hose is cut/falling off the side of the engine. Now would be a GREAT time to order the whole PCV kit and put in new hoses there as well.

Most of the wires have plugs on them lower down - you can just take the cut ones off and take the harnesses from your old engine.

The flywheel from your old engine should be fine, as long as it's not eaten up by a bad starter or something. You can have it resurfaced if it looks bad.

850 Turbo1 · Post by **850 Turbo1** » 25 Apr 2010, 13:56

These are all photos I've taken of the 'new engine'

Post by **JDS60R** » 27 Apr 2010, 22:58

Hook up a battery and turn it over (after you put oil in) . Check the compression before you get started with replacing seals etc. We find that about one out of twenty used motors has an issue the salvage seller was unaware of. A quick check here can really save you some time. We had one with a cracked main . If you have a bent flywheel I would pull the pan and repalce the orings at the oil pickup while I was checking the crank etc. (Assuming the flywheel bent in the accident)

Its great to hear you got it for such a good price. $400 to the door is great

When you pull the flywheel you will need new bolts and might as well do the rear main seal while you are there.
I would pull the intake and do the flame trap (and intake seal) unless it looked completely free of sludge in the motor.

If it is at all sludgy do the cam seals as well. Better to have them in then have to do them all later.

When doing the t belt and water pump you might as well do the cam seals ( both ends)

Congrats on the free turbo ( I love that part when buying salvage motors). The bolts are so rusty they don't want the bother.