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92 240: intermittent Rear Wheel Noise

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
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ol chervil
Posts: 3
Joined: 15 May 2010
Year and Model: 1992 240
Location: California

92 240: intermittent Rear Wheel Noise

Post by ol chervil »

Hello,
This is my first post and I am really looking forward to the expert advise on the site. I am getting ready for a big move in a few months and getting the wagon ship-shape. She just passed 200k and I am a little concerned about a few items, but specifically I have an intermittent issue which has been driving me nuts for about a year.

My issue is that on occasion, a grinding noise will come from the driver side wheel well or rear differential. When it is happening, the noise frequency is directly proportional to the speed of the car, it sounds like it is happening once per revolution. It also tends to happen when the car is just getting moving, sometimes the sound is aweful and gets loud, but after about 1/2 mile - it will go away completely.

I thought that the wheel bearing may be low in grease and grinding until the grease which is in there gets warm enough and more viscous. Another thought is that the parking brake gets stuck on or something simular. The noise doesnt really sound like a normal braking noise though.

I don't normally drive it on the freeway - but have a big move to Portland coming up. I have taken the car to my local Volvo mechanic, but they have not experienced the problem and noticed anything out of sorts when they drive it. I cant afford to have her transported.

I also was curious wants the deal with timing belts on these cars - how frequently are they changed and can you drive on the engine until failure?

THANK YOU!

Sincerely,
Mike

donnie_diamond
Posts: 32
Joined: 21 February 2010
Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
Location: Hawaii

Post by donnie_diamond »

Sticking parking break is an issue, which is usually why i just avoid using if i dont know the history of car. If you buy a 240 that previous owner hasnt pulled that thing for 15 years, you're likely to get a problem. It is usually followed by that familiar brake smell though. Repacking wheel bearings (my bet where your problem lies) with grease and changing differential fluid would be two easy cheap first options for me. Second i would check all suspension bushings. Sometimes worn or even missing bushings can sound like you're dragging a 50 gallon drum under your car while turning slow or going slow. Usually noticeable during turns or that reverse to drive or drive to reverse like you do pulling out of a parking spot.
The timing belts are not really a difficult thing to replace. For first timers, its about a three hour ordeal in learning what to remove or loosen. You are better off investing in a $50 tool to hold crank pulley too, WELL worth it. Belts are only $20, and i keep a spare in toolbox. Once you do it first time, second you can do in 45 minutes, with some luck. Technically i dont think throwing a belt does damage. Years ago i threw one after mistakenly forgetting to tighten tensioner pulley, and threw the belt at idle. Put same belt on, line up marks on belt and no problem. I'm pretty sure on all 240 motor variations the valves cannot be hit by a piston. My tech tip; take the ten minutes and pull the radiator when replacing belt. You dont have to, but its soooo much easier and gives you lots of room. It also give you the excuse to clean it, replace fluid, and know you're good. I actually go ahead and replace water pump, thermostat and all other belts when i do it. I do every 40,000 miles (about half of what recommended). I actually have a list that also includes plugs, wires, pvc valve, air filter, fuel injector o-rings and front crank seal that i do at same time. In all i get done in less than 4 hours, and it costs less that $250 and give me that really good feeling!
On the plus, get that baby to Portland and you can have the Volvophiles at ipd take care of her...

Hope this helps, good luck and keep us updated!
Donnie

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

ol chervil, welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

I agree the parking brake is a possible source of the noise and it isn't too difficult to check. Bearing noise usually doesn't go away completely when the bearing warms up. Differential fluid change isn't a service item but it is easy to check the level and top up if necessary.

Timing belt changes are every 50,000 miles for the 240. The engine is classed as non-interference so no damage should occur to valves and pistons. However, it can be inconvenient if you are in the middle of a journey when it snaps.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

zloetakoe
Posts: 2
Joined: 18 May 2010
Year and Model: 245, '88
Location: phila

Post by zloetakoe »

I've had the same issue. It happens when I am turning left and I get a rubbing noise at the same rpm as the tires are turning. It is especially prominent when I'm going down a hill, and braking to turn left. But other times happens on a nice slow turn going 25 around a bend. Wheel bearing going out causing something to be out of line and rub?

I get another noise just as I start from a stop. It sounds like a PONG or like someone hit a big empty oil drum (one time). Also seems to happen at low speeds when turning sharply. Kind of like what you described bill.

Anyway, I love the site, very useful.

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billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

zloetakoe, welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.

One of the most difficult things to diagnose on the forum is "a noise". It is difficult for you to put into words that really describe it and it is difficult for us to tell you what it is because we can't hear it.

To check the bearing you need to jack up the car on the side you suspect is going out, having chocked the front wheel on the opposite side as you will be working with the handbrake off and gear shift in N. Grasp the tyre at the top and the bottom, and attempt to move it with a push/pull action. There should be very little or no movement at all. If there is movement the bearing is suspect.

PONG :o - a graphic description. This could be brake related. If you have used the handbrake whist stopped it could be slow to release, coming off with a bang as the wheel rotates. It could also be a sticky calliper which is holding the pads against the disc until there is forward movement.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

rgk
Posts: 257
Joined: 16 March 2009
Year and Model: Gray 88 245
Location: Yellowstone
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by rgk »

zloetakoe,

My girl has that PONG sound you described whenever turning left on her 88 245. Took the car to a mechanic before our cross-country (midwest to west coast and back) tour, and he found that it was a broken stabilizer bar. He showed it to us and indeed the stabilizer bar was indeed broken in two. He said that having a broken one won't cause any major problems, so we never fixed it. It's around the shocks and struts, where the frame meets the wheel. That's the best that I can describe it.
rgk -- was dickdeadly

donnie_diamond
Posts: 32
Joined: 21 February 2010
Year and Model: 240- 1989, 1991
Location: Hawaii

Post by donnie_diamond »

@zlo- check the spring seats. A once only clunk can be the spring shifting in its seat when moving in opposite direction or start from stop 1st time.

zloetakoe
Posts: 2
Joined: 18 May 2010
Year and Model: 245, '88
Location: phila

Post by zloetakoe »

Thanks for the suggestions. I've been listening for that "pong" noise a lot to pinpoint when it happens the most and based on the spring seats description I think that might be the most plausible cause. Then noise happens most when first starting (as I'm releasing the clutch and the car is just starting to move forward, especially prominent while starting on a hill) and also when I'm hitting second gear if I let the clutch out fast while quickly accelerating. When I'm taking my time and shifting very slowly, the noise doesn't occur.

Thanks again, I'll report what I find. Not too worried as I just drive the car non-stop from Philadelphia to Idaho and basically had the car running the entire 37 hour trip. It got incredible gas mileage and didn't have a single hiccup. What a beauty!!!!

ol chervil
Posts: 3
Joined: 15 May 2010
Year and Model: 1992 240
Location: California

Post by ol chervil »

So - I've taken some advise from Billofdurham and am working to replace my rear differential fluid on my 92 240 wagon.

I've taken apart the case and drained the fluid. I went to the dealer to purchase a gasket and they sold me the wrong thing! When I took apart the rear differential, there was trace amounts of red wax-like substance around the differential, the dealership sold me a paper gasket. Worst part is that I don't know what I'm going to do if I can't get her back together.

So my question is what is this red substance and do I need this instead of a gasket? How is it installed?

In advance, many thanks for your help, you guys are awesome!

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