Trying to buy Volvo, more questions

syrdon · Post by **syrdon** » 17 May 2010, 22:54

Determined to buy a Volvo wagon, received some helpful responses on here to a couple of questions the other day, and hoping for help on a few more. Looking at a 1996 850 turbo wagon, that is being offered for a good price, but noticed a couple of things that are concerning. Appreciate any input on the following:

1. The passenger side door makes a "cracking" or "popping" noise when opened or closed. The seller said that he's had it looked at and was told a weld has broken on the hinge and was given an estimate of about $300 Canadian for repair. I searched on this forum and saw a common 850 issue with the "door check strap", but not sure if this is the same issue? I got the impression the door check strap is in the actual door, and this issue seems to be in the body of the car.

2. Seller said that he had the coolant overflow reservoir replaced about three weeks ago because he noticed a crack. Should I be concerned that there may have been coolant loss/overheating?

3. The steering felt pretty loose and unresponsive. I don't have any experience driving Volvo wagons, but it wasn't something I noticed on the other two that I test drove. I will be getting the car inspected by BCAA (British Columbia equivalent of AAA) and they check all the steering and suspension components, so I'm assuming (?) that the inspection will tell me if there's a problem with the steering?

Thanks for reading, appreciate input on any or all of the above. I've only been a forum member for a couple of days, but it's been very helpful already.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 17 May 2010, 23:05

The first issue is the door check. It needs to be replaced. Its unlikely it overheated but you can do a compression test to check the condition of the head gasket. If the numbers are below 180 then there is a leak somewhere. Along these lines, find out what grade gas has been used. Regular will end up causing burned exhaust valves on a turbo which will also cause low compression and poor running. Finally, the loose steering is probably a result of worn steering components. At about 100K all of the steering/suspension stuff is in need of replacement. For the steering, worn tie rods are probably at fault.

Take a look at this for the door check -> https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=24976

syrdon · Post by **syrdon** » 17 May 2010, 23:18

Appreciate the response. I guess I hadn't considered this, but do the turbos require premium fuel?

syrdon · Post by **syrdon** » 17 May 2010, 23:30

Should have done a search first, found lots on the fuel issue, no reply needed on that question.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 18 May 2010, 01:52

lol Any other questions?

Post by **Matty Moo** » 18 May 2010, 07:41

That cracking noise at the door is the point where the door check mounts to the car. One of the spot welds gave out. I know that noise very well. It's irritating.

There's a writeup on this site on how to fix it. I did it on my other 850, took less than an hour and wasn't that difficult.

syrdon · Post by **syrdon** » 18 May 2010, 18:38

Thanks again for the responses, they've been helpful in the buying process. Hoping to have a deal sorted out in the next couple of days.

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 18 May 2010, 18:44

I hated that popping sound on my 850 but being it was the passenger side door, i did not fix it.

As for the T5 needing premium, Supportively, you can run regular but I never would. I have alway only ran 93.

The coolant tank cracking will happen over time. I had it happen on my ex-GF's Ford Taurus. If you are really worried, just do a compression test.

Lastly, the steering is more then likely worn suspension components. When you have the BCAA look at it, make sure they tell you what is worn so you know what has to be replaced.

syrdon · Post by **syrdon** » 18 May 2010, 21:34

If you don't bother fixing the door, are you running the risk of it becoming a bigger problem?

The BCAA report (I have a sample) is lists the condition of all the various steering and suspension components, so I'm assuming it will give a good idea of where the problems are.

Regarding a compression test, they don't do a compression test but instead do a cylinder balance test, not sure how this compares to a compression test as far as useful information about the condition of the engine?

Regarding the fuel, I think we'd be running it on 89 - since my wife will be using the car most days I can't see her putting in anything higher octane than that. That brings up another question though, difficult to know whether the car has been run on premium or regular up to now (I can ask the current owner, but he's only had the car for about 1.5 years). If the car's been run on regular, would the cylinder balance test give a picture of any potential damage to the engine from long term use of the lower octane?

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 18 May 2010, 22:58

the check strap is very annoying over time and it will be worth fixing.

I always use 93 octane in my car. i feel that it does make a difference and the difference in fuel costs over an entire year is about 250$ and if you total up the slightly improved gas mileage and the potential money saved in A- Engine parts failing b/c of regular gas, and B- Keeping the original turbo intact. well then your really ahead of the game.

I feel like a 96 is pushing it though, depending on the amount of miles i hope that its a decent price.