Seafoam in intake - 2001 C70

Fendar · Post by **Fendar** » 12 Jun 2010, 19:45

Can someone tell me which hose to use to suck up the seafoam on a 2001 C70? A pic would be great!

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 Jun 2010, 19:50

Which motor? Some have vacuum trees

The norm is the brake booster vacuum line. Be careful to put it in very slowly.

Fendar · Post by **Fendar** » 12 Jun 2010, 21:11

It's the 2.3 hpt. I looked for trees, didn't see any. Not exactly sure which is brake booster line. And im not about to guess!!

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 Jun 2010, 22:22

Behind the brake master cylinder is a black metal canister. It has a vacuum line running from it to the driver side of the intake manifold. Use that line . It may be easier to disconnect at the manifold but you will need a new clamp.

The brake booster is part number 1.
Part 2 is how the vacuum line connects.

If this is your first time doing this you may want to consider Deep creep. It is seafoam in an areosol can. By applying it this way you have much less of a chance of hydrolocking your motor.

I find the intake and valves to be in pretty good shape on any Volvo that ran good gas.
I prefer to pull the spark plugs and pour the seafoam into the chamber (enough to go over the rings) then let it sit. Then put a rag across all cylinders and turn over the motor a few times. Then install the plugs and run it. It assures no hydrolock and gives great results in cleaning the combustion chamber and releasing stuck valves.
The seafoam in the gas will take care of any valve deposits.

Post by **matthew1** » 12 Jun 2010, 23:04

Do you have a vacuum tree like the photo in my How to Use Seafoam tutorial?

Fendar · Post by **Fendar** » 13 Jun 2010, 11:30

Thanks jds. I just replace the sparkplugs friday, I wish I had that info sooner!

Post by **JDS60R** » 13 Jun 2010, 11:53

Just my opinion and a short story:

Its worth it to pull the plugs again. I get the Wow factor from my customers as this way releases the rings and cleans up the chamber. They say it feels more powerfull afterword than when they did it. Solves most compression issues (ring related) that I run into.

Most of the time a true engine oil flush was needed and I do that as well. Seafoam works in the crankcase but isn't strong enough in my book. I use a quality engine flush from Amsoil and idle the car for 20 minutes I do my seafoam treatment and replace the plugs if needed. I check for any vacuum leaks after all that and replace neglected filters (gas, air) with quality ones. Then replace the engine and trans oil with quality synthetics.

This gets everything working properly again. If the car is low on compression after 1 month ( almost never is) we use a can of Restore 6 cylinder. I know it falls into the catagory of snake oil but I can't tell you how many Saabs and Volvo's we have seen the compression climb up to "reasonable" after the application and 350 to 500 miles.

One of the best examples I have for Restore is my moving truck that I drove from MA to Indiana (also pulled my car). When I got it -it had 190K miles on a HD 350 chevy motor. It was speed limited to 72mph. It could get the speed on a flat road or downhill road but any incline and it would go to 65 then 60 then 55 then 50. I can tell you I counted a lot of fingers and horn honks that day.

I stopped into KMart and bought a Restore 8 cylinder can ( $8 back then in 2000) and 4 quarts of oil. It was 1 quart low already. Well I got to watch the change over the next 350 miles . There was nothing until about 275 miles and then it kept building strength until 350 miles. After that, on mild inclines it held 72 mph and on steep ones it held 70 (good enough for me) . Never ended up needing all the oil.

Anyway - get your engine clean and your rings free for a month before using it. Then add 1 can per year at an oil change. They say every oil change but I see no difference in compression numbers when you use it that often. Use of quality sythetics on a clean motor will avoid the wear and sludge issues most are fighting.

Fendar · Post by **Fendar** » 13 Jun 2010, 17:17

How much seafoam do I pour in each cylinder? You said enough to cover the rings, but I have no clue how much that is! Does this do the same thing that putting it into the intake would do? Sorry I'm quite the novice mechanic. I'll try this out nxt weekend when I do the back brakes. Just did the front ones, so ez thx to this site.

Post by **JDS60R** » 13 Jun 2010, 17:49

You can look in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and see when the fluid is above the piston. once the piston is under seafoam you know it will soak the rings. It doesn't take much.

Then make sure to spin the motor a few times with a rag on top to catch the seafoam that blows out.

If this is your first time doing something this mechanical then you should just pour half the bottle in the gas and do the same at the next tank of gas.

The spark plugs have to be taken out while the engine is cold and then put back in with a torque wrench ( to the proper torque)and antisieze.

If you can easily do the plugs the seafoam should be an easy one.

Fendar · Post by **Fendar** » 13 Jun 2010, 18:38

Yeah I just did the plugs and used antisieze and dielectric grease and torqued them properly. I have basic repair knowledge, hopefully I'll learn some more here.