XVTer's 1998 V70 XC Build

XVTer · Post by **XVTer** » 28 Jun 2010, 07:45

Hello,

I just picked up a 1998 V70 XC to use as a winter beater/commuter. It's got 201,000 miles and no records came with it. I got a heck of a deal and couldn't pass it up. I have been looking for an AWD wagon for a couple months or so and didn't really want a Subaru. My '06 Xterra has been modified past being a daily driver - I get around 15-16mpg with it. My first car was an '86 740GLE and it sorta made me fall in love with Volvo.

So far, I've drove the car for about 3 hours (home from where I bought it) with a mix of city, highway, and mountain driving. I am pretty pleased so far with the way the car drives and the fuel economy seems to be pretty decent. Not having any service records was a bit of a concern for me but for the price, if I drive it for a year and it dies, I won't be that bummed. During the test drive, I noted a little noise from the left (driver) side front wheel - my first thought was a front wheel bearing but after further inspection, the CV shaft is starting to let go; there is movement on the inner joint. Another thing I noted is the driver's main switch panel needs some attention. The windows on the passenger side don't go up with the main switch, but they work with their respective door switches. I was pleased to see that the seat heaters still work and the sunroof doesn't leak - both things that bothered me about my old 740.

My plan going forward is to:
Change Engine Oil/Filter
Flush Radiator/New Coolant
Flush Auto Transmission
Replace Angle Gear Oil
Replace Rear Diff Oil
Replace Front CV axle
Replace Power Steering Fluid

My question is, besides what's listed above, what should I look to replace? Should I just go ahead and do the timing belt? I have heard a lot of people talk about removing the driveshaft - would it be smart to remove it during the summer months to reduce wear? Looking under the car, the driveshaft has definitely been replaced before. There isn't any movement on the support bearing and the shaft looks pretty good as compared to the rest of the undercarriage (some surface rust from VT winters)

Well, sorry for the long novel - I have read a lot of the threads in this forum and am excited to get to work.

Post by **JRL** » 28 Jun 2010, 07:59

XVTer wrote:Hello,

My plan going forward is to:
Change Engine Oil/Filter

GOOD IDEA
Flush Radiator/New Coolant

CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT AND SENSOR AT THIS TIME
Flush Auto Transmission

IF IT'S SHIFTING OK I WOULD NOT AT THESE MILES
JUST DRAIN AND FILL NOW AND AT THE NEXT OIL CHANGE
Replace Angle Gear Oil

YES
Replace Rear Diff Oil

YES
Replace Front CV axle

OF COURSE
Replace Power Steering Fluid

WHY NOT

.

Window master switches always fail at some point as do seat switches.
If you don't need AWD by all means remove the propshaft for the winter, It will run smoother, more quietly and return a bit better gas mileage (and save the rest of the AWD parts)

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Jun 2010, 08:04

Yes, do the timing belt, and probably water pump at the same time. It's due at 210K, but I'd go ahead and do it anyway just to be safe. I don't like stretching things to the maximum amount of time/mileage possible, esp. something as critical as a timing belt.

The window switch contacts can be cleaned up with some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. If that doesn't work for you, you can find new master switch panels on Ebay for pretty cheap.

Check on the PCV system as well, pull out the oil dipstick with the car idling & a warm engine and look for smoke through the opening/oil on top of the engine under the spark plug cover.

I'm glad to see you have done your research on the AWD system of these Volvos - if taken care of, it will work just fine.

nightc1 · Post by **nightc1** » 28 Jun 2010, 08:24

I'd take it over to AdvanceAuto parts or another auto parts store that'll read your codes for yah. Just to be sure there's nothing that's giving error but not enough error to set off the Check Engine light.

Other than that the above suggestions...

Engine Air Filter
&
Cabin Air Filter

Might as well check em both and replace if needed.

Also it wouldn't hurt at all to go ahead and clean the throttle body as well as the Idle Control Valve... and either use an electronic part cleaner (like CRC) or a baggie and 90+% Rubbing Alcohol on the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF Sensor). Just be sure not to touch the wire with anything. You should find instructions here or a quick google on cleaning the MAF Sensor as well as the Idle Control Valve (Sometimes called Idle Air Control Valve). But all of this will aid in prolonging the parts life as well as possibly improving gas mileage and preventing some issues down the road.

...

Since you don't have any records for the car... you may want to pull the radio (but don't disconnect) and see if the code for it is written on there. If not... take the car to the nearest volvo dealer and have them look up the code for you. They should be able to do this with the VIN unless the stereo was swapped. Once you have the number, you could disconnect the battery and let the car sit a half hour so the computer clears it's memory and then it will relearn the fuel mixture stuff and possibly improve your gas mileage as well.

...

Beyond that...

I'd get a can of Seafoam and do a Seafoam Treatment (1/3 can in the gas tank, 1/3 in the oil, and 1/3 sucked in through a vac line) a week before changing the oil. There are guides out there for how to do it and you'll find many people that sware by it. Just do a little research.

I'm sure more could be tacked on... but that's a pretty decent load right there (including the previously mentioned items).

XVTer · Post by **XVTer** » 28 Jun 2010, 09:37

Thanks for the replies!

I hooked up my Scangauge II and that doesn't pull up any codes. The Service light is on, so I am contemplating getting one of the other devices that can turn off the light. It should save me a couple trips to the dealer and should more than pay for itself.

Good call on the seafoam. I did that on my last beater ('96 Ranger) and it made a world of difference.

With this long weekend, I intend to tear into it a litte bit. It needs a thorough cleaning and some paint touch-ups as well.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Jun 2010, 09:41

Just learn to ignore the service light...I used to use it as an indicator of when to not go kicking the turbo until that light goes off in the mornings. I have since just removed the bulb when I went in to change out my dash bulbs.

nightc1 · Post by **nightc1** » 28 Jun 2010, 12:54

The service light can be reset...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2008/1 ... -c70-xc70/

I'm not sure if you'd fall into the pit of V70-1998 or the easy street of the XC70?

But the XC70 technique (copy and pasted) is:

1. Press and hold odometer reset button
2. Turn ignition switch to Run
3. After SRL flashes, release odometer reset button
4. Confirm by turning your Volvo off, then on again

Post by **JRL** » 28 Jun 2010, 13:07

97s and 98s they need a draper tool or the Volvo tool to clear the light.

nightc1 · Post by **nightc1** » 29 Jun 2010, 07:56

If this is true that the XC70's from 98' require the tool, then the guide should be updated to reflect that as they only appear on the easy street method. Same for the 98' S70's since they are listed for only up through 97 as needing the tool.

Post by **JRL** » 29 Jun 2010, 08:00

ALL 98s need the tool to reset the service light