new 850 wagon owner, and member to the board

newportnatenj · Post by **newportnatenj** » 04 Jul 2010, 18:06

Hi all, New member and new volvo owner. Located in Nj
My name is Nate, im the proud owner of a 94 850 wagon, 143k Automatic, stock for now, non turbo :[

Came to this site for the repair database and to get some tips on where to begin, so since I created a s/n I thought it was time to get in the mix. I havent the slightest clue how to determine what trim my model is, or where mine was made. Im interested in finding out how though.

I do plan on investing some money into the car, putting a decent stance on it, and some small performance stuff. I have an idea of where I want the car to go, and how Id like it to look, but am looking for input on where to begin. I take criticism well and good advice is greatly appreciated.

I have a small problem with the car, and that will be my first tackle before I start on the mods. My odometer and speedometer do not work. Ive read into how to fix the odometer, but the speedometer im still unsure of.
So if anyone has any suggestions on that, please let me know.

Looking forward to becoming a contributing member of the board and hope to return help as much as people help me! thanks!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Jul 2010, 15:24

Welcome to MVS,

Your problem with the speedometer is not typical. The odometer gears break on all of them but the speedometer usually continues to work even after the odometer fails. If you had a '96 or later model the ABS module failing will cause both the speedometer and odometer to quit but on the '95 and earlier models the ABS module is quite robust and it doesn't really bother the speedometer anyway even if it goes bad.

You have a built in OBD-I system on the car on the A and B sockets behind the windshield washer fluid filler cap under the hood. Read the codes from ports A-1, A-2, and A-6 and post them back. You very well may have a bad vehicle speed sensor or a wiring problem from the sensor.

...Lee

newportnatenj · Post by **newportnatenj** » 05 Jul 2010, 20:32

great, thanks for the information. Hopefully that is the issue, as from looking into the parts its a cheap fix. Im not looking for a full run down on how to do it, but would changing these sensors be a difficult task? Or with the right information will it be fairly simple? Im going to check the codes I read against a code list, im hoping that I read it correctly.

Im trying to start planning for suspension, I dont know a ton about suspension, Im almost positive that I dont have the self leveling rear. What are the pros/cons of using lowering springs instead of coilovers? I know theres a price difference, But depending on the difference and pros/cons, if its easier and a wiser decision to go with the coilovers I'll fork over the extra cash

***quick edit, forget to ask.. Is it going to be a pain in the A** to make my N/A, a turbo?

newportnatenj · Post by **newportnatenj** » 05 Jul 2010, 21:10

Hmm.. Reading around, On some other car boards as well, it seems as though coilovers although making the car lower and being adjustable, might not be the way to go for performance and handling. Im not looking to super low, an inch would be perfect and would bring my stance to where Id like it.

At the suggestion of a few friends, I think i'll go with Eibach springs, but am having a difficult time finding information on what my best choice for shocks will be.

Post by **JRL** » 05 Jul 2010, 21:13

H&R springs, much better than Eibach
Konis sports, pricey but give the nicest ride
Go to www.shox.com for the best deals, they sell all combos

Post by **matthew1** » 06 Jul 2010, 09:41

Welcome, Nate. See my reply to your post about the cold air intake.

Transforming an N/A car into a turbo is not a good cost/benefit exercise because turbos can be bought for just a few thousand dollars. If that number was much higher, the turbo transformation equation would begin to look better.

Ok, with that out of the way, and since you said you take criticism well, here goes: sell the N/A and buy a turbo.

I can tell who likes speed and who likes to just get groceries. You like speed, and you're forever going to be wanting more power. If the Volvo turbos were unreliable or weak I'd pause before recommending selling/buying. But the 850/S70/V70 in turbo trim is the ideal cheap-to-buy car to make speed, in my humble opinion, and that's not because I own one. It's good looking, safe, easy to work on, etc., but most of all powerful. And you've got good tech support -- us

.

With a Stage 0, chip, exhaust, high flow intake and manual boost controller these things can really move. Or just do a Stage 0 and intake like I've done and it'll still be fast. Point is, they've got lots of headroom for power mods.

The farther you get into mods on your N/A the louder that little guy in your head is going to nag you.

newportnatenj · Post by **newportnatenj** » 07 Jul 2010, 16:30

haha Im already been looking around for a wagon with the turbo trim. What year did they do the R models? and do the R models come turbo only or is there a N/A option to them?

Lee.. I ran the codes in my car, I ran all of them besides A-5, and thats because its gone lol there is no connection in 5. I purchased the car that way.
A-1 II-III-II
A-2 I-II-I
A-3 II-I-III
A-6 I-I-I
A-7 I-II-II

And this is trying to diagnose my speedometer problem

Post by **Hoov** » 07 Jul 2010, 19:45

Welcome to MVS newportnatenj!
As you already know you have found the most friendly, knowledgeable & mellow "fix it" site on the net. I love this place & the folks who participate!!
After a couple "fixes" that work for you, throw twenty bucks to Matt if you can afford too because he deserves it. LOL ... & you will also get a way cool heading w/avatar on all your posts! Hehehehe ... Well?? ... It is damnit!

You just recieved some of the best advice that money didn't buy.

Matt just told you to not waste your money w/an N/A trying to make it what it is not & can never be. He's right! Buy the Turbo on the cheap (Assuming you are willing to wrench) & have some major fun!!! Leave your N/A stock for everyday running around or sell it. (Also if you didn't already know the N/A engines do not have the bottom end strength to handle a turbo)

Ozark Lee is always right on the money & I too am awaiting his response to your codes!

JRL could be a Moderator for MVS in a heartbeat were he so inclined but I really appreciate his solid advice & the fact he always supplies website info within his posts! ... "Click" ... Tadaaa!

Good luck to you,

Hoov

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 Jul 2010, 20:10

Welcome to the site!

Here's a translation of your codes:
A1 - 232 - speedometer signal missing.
The speedometer sensor on your model is on top of the transmission bellhousing itself. It sounds like you need a new one. The odometer won't work either if the speedo signal is missing. Fix this, then see if the odometer works before digging into the dashboard.
A2 - 121 - MAF signal
Is your car running badly? You can remove the MAF sensor and clean it with some spray that you pick up at an auto parts store. Don't touch it, let it dry, and reconnect it. Some people's cars have problems with the connectors, in which case you can fasten a plastic zip-tie around it to hold it snug to the sensor.
A3 - 213 - Left front wheel signal
-Try cleaning the ABS sensor (remove the wheel) and look right behind the hub. There will be a sensor with two wires coming out of it, with a single bolt holding it down. Remove the sensor and clean it off, and clean the gear down in the wheel it talks to.
A6 - good
A7 - 122 - Temp sensor interval too long
No idea, but I'd guess the ECT (coolant temp) sensor is fluky. This happens to all of them at some point or another when the thermostat gets stuck open. It can also cause it to run like crap, and will throw a check engine light. The housing for the thermostat is right by the power steering reservoir, and can be somewhat of a PITA to open. Get some PB Blaster and a Torx socket, and try to get the screws out without stripping them. Then replace the thermostat and ECT sensor at the same time.

Here's where all of these codes are for future reference.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo- ... ble-codes/

If it were up to me, keep the NA. Turbos are good fun and all every now and then when you put your foot down, but they're annoying to work on. And leak fluids anywhere and everywhere they can.

I am used to owning underpowered 4-cylinder cars, though, really not having a lot of power wouldn't be a huge issue for me as long as the car works and gets decent gas mileage.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 07 Jul 2010, 21:37

The vehicle speed sensor is normally not a problem but the connector or the wiring can cause you grief. Inspect those before shelling out hard earned for a new sensor. If that all looks OK then I suspect the sensor itself is bad - it would certainly explain your problem. The VSS is located on the inboard side of the transmission housing just above the axle. You will need to get to it from underneath the car.

As for the rest of the codes just clear them and see what comes back. These cars are like elephants, they never forget an error code until you clear it so they may have been from a previous problem.

...Lee