1998 v70 Power Windows will not work

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 07 Sep 2010, 16:58

Out of the blue, the power windows quite working. The passenger switch on the main drivers side switch panel appears to have broken, so I am making a leap that the switch blue the relay/fuse so now none of the windows work.

I looked in the manual, and the power window switch is in slot #37, which is not located in either the primary or secondary fuse boxes, but under the dash in a very awkward position. I need to remove the lower dash section to have at the relay/fuses, but that will have to wait till tomorrow.

So it looks like I need to replace the drivers side switches, and a relay. Any suggestions. As involved as the Window switch seems, the relay/fuse seems even more involved.

Any advice is appreciated!

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 07 Sep 2010, 17:20

So I did more research. If the main switchbank goes bad, all four power windows? None of the individual switches at the other windows work either. The whole system seems dead.

I found some pull offs and aftermarkets, I will order tonight.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 07 Sep 2010, 19:14

The power window/sunroof circuit breaker is located in the fuse box.
The box under the hood, nearest the windshield - Indeed, it is Position# 37.
Look for a rectangular metal "can". It's an auto reset circuit breaker.
If the key has been on for very long, I suspect it will be very hot! Be careful.

Since all the windows run through that breaker,
it's kinda like cheap christmas lights:
"One goes out, They ALL Go Out!"

A new Master Switch should make everything happy again!

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 07 Sep 2010, 19:37

Thanks for the reply. My problem is that my fuse box under the hood only goes up to position 36. My manual said to consult a Volvo repair manual for "additional" locations. I did some research which pointed me under the drivers side dash. There are relays there but they are not easily accessible.

I'm not saying you are wrong, but i just can't seem to find it under the hood. I have looked in both the primary fuse box as well as the secondary fuse box,

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 07 Sep 2010, 21:46

OK...So maybe I left out a few details...
It IS in there, but you'll need to pop the top on the FUSE box.

First, make it easy on yourself by going "Big Mouth" with the hood.
These cars have trick hood hinges that will allow you to go Fully Vertical.

Grab this oval hood hinge stop:

: Hood hinge - normal.jpg (122.4 KiB) Viewed 13540 times

And pull it down like this - ( Both sides - left and right hinges ):

: Hood hinge - Go Vertical.jpg (79.87 KiB) Viewed 13540 times

Now you can open the hood ALL the way, making it much easier
to remove the 4 torx screws holding the FUSE box cover and get to the
"hidden" locations for the CB's that protect the Windows/Sunroof and power seats.

At this point, you'll be able to reach the plug-in circuit breaker in "Location 37".

See that metal can next to the 15 amp fuse in # 36?
There ya go!

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 08 Sep 2010, 06:12

Thanks- now I read the CB's can reset themselves. Could it be the CB does not need replaced?

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 08 Sep 2010, 07:39

Ok. I found the CB, removed it, and had went to the autoparts store to get another...I had the old one tested and it tested fine. I went back home removed the master switch from the drivers side door and disconnected it. I used my test light to check the CB socket, no power. I reconnected the master switch and rechecked the socket. Power. I re-checked several times to confirm the result. Looks like when my Master Switch arrives, I'll be back in business. I will keep you posted.

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 13 Sep 2010, 10:39

All- just a follow-up. I ordered a new master window switch from switch doctor ($80). I removed the old switch by prying it out of the interior door with a bladed screwdriver. I removed the connections, put them in the new switch and...tada...we have working windows again.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 13 Sep 2010, 12:32

Let us know how the Swith Doctor part does over time. When my master switch went out I was tempted to buy one but I couldn't find anyone who had used one of their switches and I luckly found a used one that hadn't failed yet for pretty cheap and so far is still going strong. But the master switch is a common failure so it's only a matter of time for most of us so it would be good to have a less expensive but yet reliable option versus the Volvo brand switch.

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 17 Sep 2010, 05:58

Okay, I will. It has a lifetime warrenty, so I will let you all know if I have problems down the road.