1994 850 Wagon Won't Start

jnelston · Post by **jnelston** » 04 Dec 2010, 10:34

My '94 Volvo 850 Wagon won't start. I drove it to a concert a few weeks ago it ran fine on the 3 hr trip down there. I turned it off for a few hrs prior to the concert. Started fine while driving to the concert. Started after and drove back to the hotel. Turned it off at about midnight and the next morning at about 10 and it wouldn't start. It would turn over and try to start just didn't catch. I tried it multiple times over the next few hours. Didn't have a choice but to leave it there for 3 days due to work. Went down to pick it up and wouldn't start still. Used a tow dolly to bring it to my house. Now not only will it not start but it is losing power. I changed the spark plugs a few weeks prior to my trip, changed the oil about 2000 miles before problems started, changed alternator about 2 months ago. I changed the spark plug wires this morning but still didn't have enough power to start. Used a electronic starter to help jump it but didn't work. Starter begins to engage but that is all. Power cuts off just after starter begins to engage.

Would this be a bad starter or should I check other avenues of repairs?

Hope someone can help,
Moose

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Dec 2010, 10:49

Welcome to MVS Moose,

Start by charging the battery, it is likely on its knees from the repeated attempts to start the car.

You said you changed the spark plug wires - what kind did you replace them with? These cars hate any spark plug wires except Bougicord brand. That said, it still should at least start if they got put back in the right order. Be advised that the Haynes manual has the wrong positions and more than one of us have been tricked by that error on their part.

Here is a link to the correct plug wire locations on the distributor:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/sparkplugs.php

Beyond that other information will be helpful such as code numbers. On your '94 codes can be read from the underhood diagnostic box.

http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

I'm not sure if you have a turbo or not so check for codes in both port A-2 and A-6.

...Lee

jnelston · Post by **jnelston** » 04 Dec 2010, 11:01

I know I have the 2.4L Enginge (non-turbo). As for taking off the old wires and replacing with the new ones, as I took off the old one I wrote down the location they went to on the distributor. I used Duralast brand wires. The rubber "boot" on the end that plugs into the distributor doesn't cover as much of the red part as the old ones but I felt two distinct clicks as I pushed the connector into the distributor and ignition coil. I do not have a OBD I tester therefore can't get the codes. I tried to have Autozone and Adcanced Auto Parts read the codes for me in the past but both said they don't have the correct tester to read the codes in my system. I used a battery charger I plug into an outlet in my house to charge the battery. It said the battery was fully charged and I confirmed this by disconnecting the charger and using my multimeter to test the voltage in the battery. The charger also had a 55Amp start boost feature that didn't work. I just went out to the car and turned the key. Upon inserting the key I heard the door open bell and the clock on the dash worked. Once I turned the key to the start position nothing electrical worked in the car and absolutely nothing happened as for ignition.

I greatly appreciate the fast response to my post. I have used other forums and waited days with no result. I will most definately continue to use this site and forum for my current and any future needs with my vehicle.

Moose

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Dec 2010, 12:42

I do not have a OBD I tester therefore can't get the codes.

It came with the car.

http://volvospeed.com/CheckEngine.php

Codes will help a bunch.

...Lee

jnelston · Post by **jnelston** » 12 Dec 2010, 09:39

I finally got the time to check the DTCs and here is what I found. I couldn't find a list of fault codes online so any help would be greatly appreciated.

A-1: 1-1-1
A-2: 1-1-1
A-3: 4-4-4
2-1-4
2-1-3
1-4-4
A-6: 3-2-4
3-1-4
A-7: 2-3-1
B-1: No fault codes came up
B-2: 1-2-2
B-3: 1-1-1
B-4: No fault codes came up

I'm not sure what any of them mean and I don't know if any of them coincide with the alternator troubles I had in the past. I replaced the alternator but would that have reset the codes on it's own or did I have to replace them myself?

Moose

SkyVolvo · Post by **SkyVolvo** » 12 Dec 2010, 09:52

Here you go:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo- ... ble-codes/

jnelston · Post by **jnelston** » 12 Dec 2010, 10:18

Thank You. There was one code I didn't happen to find on there It is in the A-7 Port and the code is 2-3-1. I think it might be because my odometer stopped at about 135000 but I don't know.

The faults identified was the ABS rear wheel sensors, brake disks overheating, and no power supply to the valves in hydrolic unit. I don't think the first two would affect it starting but I don't know if the hydrolic valves would affect starting.

I don't know what or where the camshaft position sensor is or what it does or how it would affect starting the car or draining the battery. I'm going to try to research it myself but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I appreciate everyone's help thus far....I'm quite ignorant when it comes to vehicle maintenance.

Moose

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Dec 2010, 10:32

The big one is the A-6 3-1-4 and 3-2-4 code. Those are a camshaft position sensor code and a bad cam position sensor will prevent the car from starting.

The cam sensor is pricey but my bet is that a new one will get you on the road again. The good news is that it is very easy to replace - no more than about 15 minutes.

...Lee

jnelston · Post by **jnelston** » 12 Dec 2010, 11:25

Well I just went out to the car to check if the plugs are getting a spark. I took out the first spark plug and wire. Inserted the plug in the wire and grounded it out to part of the engine. I got a spark and the engine almost started. I reinstalled the plug, wire, and plastic cap over the plugs. For some reason It started for me. I drove it about ten minutes and got back to my house. Turned it off and started it again. I don't know why it suddenly started but it did. Should I replace the camshaft sensor anyway? I am going to Maine from North Carolina on Friday. Could the plug not sparking properly throw out a cam shaft sensor code?

Journeyman · Post by **Journeyman** » 12 Dec 2010, 13:10

Judging by the age of the vehicle, the no start condition, and codes, it sounds like you need a camshaft position sensor. In my opinion, even if for some reason replacement of the sensor didn't solve this problem, you would at least be addressing an issue that is almost certain to get you at some point anyway.