98 S70 SAS Removal Valve and everything
98 S70 SAS Removal Valve and everything
I have a 98 s70 t5 and I want to remove the sas system- pump, valve, everything. I see there are ways to solder a diode to the ECU, but there are 2 different postings for which pins to solder the diode to. I want to do it right the first time with no cel. Which pins do I solder the diode to? Is it B38-A32 as listed on this site, or on Volvospeed A32-A37? The mod on Volvo speed is a later posting and describes one of the pins being for the SAS solenoid. New to the Volvo scene but I have already soldered my ABS module with success and enjoy working on the T5.
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
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^^^Exactly. You want the pins for a '98 Motronic 4.4 ECU; the 850's (Motronic 4.3) I believe have slightly different pin configurations. Whichever guy there has an S/V70 and not an 850 - that is the post you want to follow.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Thanks for the replies. I checked vs again and went on to page 2, a guy said he tried a32 to b38 or whatever it is and the cel came on for him. Every one is directing him to solder the diode A32 to A37. I am trying it and will keep everyone posted. I would love to delete all the sas garbage and order a new turbo air filter cover! Any body have one?
Removal went perfectly. I removed pump, hoses, capped off vacuum lines, removed sas valve from exhaust and capped off exhaust tube. I left the solenoid plugged in but capped off vacuum lines. No cel!! Anyone need a working sas pump from a 98 s70?!
- misha
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- Year and Model: '97 850 2.5 20v
- Location: Serbia
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Just let the ecu to complete it's driving cycle and to notice that sas system is missing....it will come back,trust me.
It may pass a few days or a week untill the ecu throw the cel about bad sas pump(or missing one).
It may pass a few days or a week untill the ecu throw the cel about bad sas pump(or missing one).
'97 850 2.5 20v / fully equipped / Motronic 4.4 from the factory / upgraded with S,V,C,XC70 instrument cluster / polar white wagon
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
History of Volvos in the family:
'71 144 S
'73 144 De Luxe
'78 244 DL
'78 244 DL
'79 244 GLE
'85 340 GLS
Just completed the SAS removal on a 97 NA850. Did the diode solder inside the ECU, A32 to A37 for my application. Removed the pump and all large tubing to the airbox and the solenoid valve. The relay that is attached to the airpump bracket clips nicely onto a lip of the body panel just under the battery. Removed the valve and plumbing from the exhaust manifold. Couldn't find a 16x1.5 that was short enough to not project into the exhaust stream. I took a 7/16x14 bolt and tapped it to fit inside the existing fitting that goes from the exhaust bung to the SAS valve plumbing, coated it with copper antisieze and used a copper washer to seal under the bolt. No leaks and I could hook up the plumbing in the future if I ever had to. If you want a really clean look, go for an airbox top that was from an EGR system, they had no opening for the hose from the airpump. It also gets rid of the vacuum lines and connectors that go to the that pesky flapper valve on the bottom of the airbox if you have done that modification. The solenoids are still there with the vacuum lines removed that went to the vacuum tree. Unless someone knew that engine intimately they would never know any components were removed. The look is a lot cleaner, no PO410 code in 300+ miles so far, and passed a smog check to boot. By far one of the easiest modifications I've done for the return for not having to buy new SAS components and getting a much cleaner look under the hood. As I said this was done on a NA so if anyone runs into problems with that configuration let me know.
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vjaneczko
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- Year and Model: 2006 S60R
- Location: San Antonio, TX
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Soldering the diode in place will "show" the system that the SAS is working properly. If done correctly, there will never be an issue.misha wrote:Just let the ecu to complete it's driving cycle and to notice that sas system is missing....it will come back,trust me.
It may pass a few days or a week untill the ecu throw the cel about bad sas pump(or missing one).
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
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scumcity14
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 14 January 2011
- Year and Model: s70 t5m 1998
- Location: Cleveland
Wrong. The ECU is fooled into thinking the system is operating. If you follow the directions and it is done properly it will not throw a code. I have a few thousand miles and its fine. Just remember if you do this unplug the white line and cap the vac tree and either leave everything else in place or remove everything except the solenoid on the fanshroud (leave its electrical connector plugged in) do not leave the check valve open..remove it and plug the downpipe..Also on a 98 (motronic 4.4) it is A32 to A37..that kid on VS made a mistake and there were many posts flaming him for it.misha wrote:Just let the ecu to complete it's driving cycle and to notice that sas system is missing....it will come back,trust me.
It may pass a few days or a week untill the ecu throw the cel about bad sas pump(or missing one).
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