Hi
I am installing a 2000 2.9 s80 motor in my sons 1999 s80. (long story)
I have the old engine out and before I put the other engine in (since it is very accessible)
I want to install
1. new water pump
2. new tensioner
3. new timing belt
4. new idler pulley
Problem I am having is finding the crankshaft mark for TDC. I have a vadis cd which shows your where to look but still am unable to find the mark.
I have found The camshaft marks easily but want to make sure I am not 180 degrees out.
I do understand that when I change it all out to rotate the engine clockwise until the camshaft marks are straight up and then go another 1/4 turn with the crankshaft and then rotate it back counter clockwise and align the marks up agian.
Any other issues I need to be concerned with the variable valve timing?
I also am aware of setting the tensioner according to the temperature.
Also on the front right of the engine (below the starter) I know there is an access hole to put a tool in to hold it at TDC .
I don't have the tool but can someone explain how that work. I might fabricate one if I know what it does.
(I also installed new rear main seal,transmission axle seals and torque converter to transmission seal)
1999 s80 motor swap
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bobsnow100
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boosted5cyl
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Its not set to TDC in the traditional sense, to pedantic. There is a mark thats just off TDC that you will set it to however. Its really hard to see without the serpentine pulley being pulled off.
You are right on the money with the plug by the starter to get the crank into position. Drop a 6" long 3/8" ratchet extension in the hole, turn the motor by hand counterclockwise until you hit the stop and you are ready to rock with the rest of the job.
Theres a lot of posts on VVT, but they seems to make it complex. I tried to simplify it in this thread, hopefully I was successful: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=35478
You are right on the money with the plug by the starter to get the crank into position. Drop a 6" long 3/8" ratchet extension in the hole, turn the motor by hand counterclockwise until you hit the stop and you are ready to rock with the rest of the job.
Theres a lot of posts on VVT, but they seems to make it complex. I tried to simplify it in this thread, hopefully I was successful: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 11&t=35478
boosted5cyl wrote: The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, code are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.
Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:
Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far
Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).
If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.
Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.
** Have a beer. **
Last edited by boosted5cyl on 10 Jan 2011, 09:29, edited 1 time in total.
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
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bobsnow100
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Thank You,
Much simpler to understand.
I will try the 6" 3/8 extension in that hole.
Much simpler to understand.
I will try the 6" 3/8 extension in that hole.
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boosted5cyl
- Posts: 1100
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- Year and Model: '98 V70 T5, '99 S80
- Location: St. Paul, MN
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NP, yeah It'll work fine. I used it only last week. Have fun now...bobsnow100 wrote:Thank You,
Much simpler to understand.
I will try the 6" 3/8 extension in that hole.
Oh yeah dont forget to do the thermostat too if you haven't already.
If you want, go the whole hog and clean out the PCV system, not as much of an issue with the N/A's admittedly.
Oil pan orings might be a good idea too while its out. Cheap parts and saves you a messy job down the road.
'04 XC90 2.5T AWD (Angus) 134K.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
'99 S80 T6 (Medusa) 214k. On borrowed time LOL
'98 V70 T5 (Vivienne). RIP @ 228K. Spun rod bearings.
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