S80 headlamp assembly lens replacement

[Jake of Sigourney]

2001 S80 sustained broken glass lens of headlamp assembly and bought just the replacement glass via Internet delivered to home for $65. Changing glass is straightforward and requires only a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench, 10 and 12 mm sockets, straight blade screwdriver, electric drill and bits. Two hours or so should be sufficient for this job.

To gain access to the headlight assembly mounting screws, one needs to loosen the integrated bumper/fascia assembly by pulling its front four mounting bolts, the top row of plastic disc fasteners and only the lower front four wheel well shroud pop rivets. You do not need to remove the pop rivets from the other wheel well as the bumper is flexible. The bumper assembly must slide forward about 4 inches, and drop it down a couple inches to expose the light mounting screws. The bumper and integrated fascia slides straight forward on a track located just in the front of the wheel well. The shroud pop rivet heads will need to be sacrificed and replaced, or as I did, substituted by some sheet metal screws. Upon reassembly, I replaced each pop rivet head with two #6 screws, but initially drilled out 1/16 in. pilot holes (to assure proper future alignment) before removing the rivet heads. Each pair of screws was placed straddling the rivet (about 1/2 inch separation) and slightly outward. Then drill out the rivet heads with 1/4 in. drill bit, but OK to leave the shanks of the rivets in place, to act as future alignment pins. Free the lower shroud and peer inside by illuminating from below with a flashlight or work light. You will see the track attachment holding the fascia assembly.

Next, remove the four front bumper mounting bolts with a 12 mm socket. Two are hidden beneath the approximately 2x4 inch black plastic covers. Pry upward in the slot with a straight screwdriver, thus releasing the hidden retaining tab, then pull the plate out exposing the bolt head. The other bolts are beneath the medial pointed end of the bumper guard. While protecting the paint with a credit card, etc. pry the pointed tip outward with a screwdriver, exposing the hidden bolt head. Lastly, remove the row of assembly plastic disc fasteners located above the radiator. Simply push in each pin, and then pry the whole assembly upwards to release all of them. Later, reuse these fasteners by "resetting" the pins in the fully up position. Now remove the turn signal housing by gently prying it straight forward, again protecting paint with a credit card. It is held by tabs that are easily broken and get brittle with age. Separate the electrical connector by pushing down on the "V' wire, releasing the plug, taking care not to pull on the wires, themselves.

You now are ready to pull the bumper forward off the track fixture. It may stick in the track, and you can either carefully drive it forward at the wheel well (while protecting the paint with a towel, etc.) or "lever" it forward via access through the side position light hole (pop this out with screwdriver and with paint protection with credit card). You will find a square hole located in sheet metal inside and near the front of the rectangular position light cutout. Using a socket wrench handle as a lever, and while protecting paint, the whole bumper assembly is easily nudged forward off the track and then falls down.
Now attack the light assembly, itself, by removing its 10mm mounting screws. The lower most medial screw is the least accessible, and you will need to push the bumper down, etc. to provide exposure. Protect the paint while you loosen and later tighten this screw.You might also shove a rag or towel below the screw to catch it as it falls out. Slide the light assembly forward, remembering how it fits back in. If you later forget, the mirror configuration is intact on the opposite side for reference.

Take the light assembly to your kitchen or basement sink to clean and for glass replacement. First, remove the hood weather seal held by tabs, then the metal retainer clips holding the glass lens. Clean the rubber seal for reuse unless damaged. Carefully clean out any dirt present on the mirror surface, but rubbing too vigorously may also strip off this fragile metal coating, I pulled the lamps, then rinsed the assembly under my sink faucet, then gently dried. A hair dryer would also work nicely as you don't want to leave any moisture beneath the glass. As you all probably know, make sure that the lamp glass is not touched by bare fingers, cleaning products, etc. as they will soon fail. If you do accidentally touch the glass, then polish thoroughly with a very clean soft rag or laundered tee shirt, etc. Attach the new lens and assure that it is properly seated in the rubber seal and held by all the clips.

Reassemble in reverse but only after first plugging in cables, and assuring that all the lights work. The bumper must properly engage the track before bolted in, and you can assure this by peering in the space between the light assembly and the bumper, and also by peering in from the wheel well while holding back the shroud and placing a light below. Once visually satisfied, then grab the fascia and pull outward to prove it is solidly held. Temporarily hold the bumper in place by replacing a pin fastener or dropping a Phillips screwdriver into one of the top holes. Now replace the four front mounting bolts, and cover plates, etc. Insert the top row of pin fasteners and lock in place. Lastly, screw in the wheel well shroud screws or use new pop rivets, etc. If you are a bit OCD, then put a dab of black paint on the screw heads. Replace the turn signal housing, and if you damaged any tabs, then put a dab of silicone based adhesive on the back inside of the housing to hold it in place, yet easily freed when you need to change a bulb, etc.