Stalling Problem.....

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 29 May 2011, 05:49

I purchased a 90 240DL wagon not too long ago. Took it for about a 4 mile test drive. The engine sounded pretty smooth and the acceleration was good. That was enough for me to buy the car. I figured it could use all the basic tune up items and a good check over. Now that I had my dream wagon and was driving it home from the dealers with a smile on my face it decided to stall on me. It was tow truck time. I did the following ......
New rotor cap / rotor / plugs / wires / oil changs with filter / fuel filter / air filter......
test drive time... drove about 20 mins and it stalled again. Had to wait about 5 min for it to restart. Took a few more test drives the next few days with the same results.
Replaced the crank speed sensor.. I had noticed the wire looked pretty bad.
Test drive!! Drove around for about two hours with no problems.... life was good. Next day it stalled again. I had checked the fuel pump relay and it was hot. I just so happened to have a new one on hand and my car came back to life. I had dreams of new tires... brake job... and those new tail lights, but then it stalled again.
Replaced the oxygen sensor..... test drive time...... runs for about five mins then stalls
Cleaned MAF sensor...... stalled
Found disconnected ground wire... reconnected..... stalled again
I am getting a code for the injectors.... but I don't want to go that route yet..
I plan on tracing down all the ground wires and cleaning them and also check the intank fuel pump...
Any other thoughts out there??? thanks

Post by **jimmy57** » 29 May 2011, 08:41

What is the code you are getting?
When it stalls and will not start do you hear the fuel pump run a couple of seconds when the key is first turned to on pos II?
240 fuseboxes with fuse end corrosion and fuses with cracks where the conductor is crimped around end of ceramic body have stalled a ton of 240's.

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 29 May 2011, 10:27

I forgot to list that I have replaced all the fuses with new... and that I have cleaned the connections on the fuse holders. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the II position. I think the pump I hear is the one by the filter. I still need to listen with the fuel cap off while someone else turns the key to the II postion for the in tank fuel pump.

Post by **jimmy57** » 29 May 2011, 10:49

unless it is really low on fuel the in-tank pump wouldn't stop it.
If the in-tank pump is not running or the hose is cracked open between it and the pipe you usually have a much louder growling main pump instead of a nice hum.
The other relay for fuel system that supplies power to injectors, MAF, IAC, etc. could be the one killing it.
On the 90 models I think it is next to fuel pump relay. Also, relay being hot is not a determinant of whether it is working or not.
Cracked solder joints in relays occur on the connection of the relay load circuit and do not affect the relay coil puling down the contact arm in most cases.

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 29 May 2011, 11:02

I checked for the other fuel pump relay and I could not find one next to the fuel pump relay which is on the front passengers side under felt cover. The only other one I could find was under the steering wheel and I think its an a/c relay. I also get codes 232 / 113 . Also my gas is at about 1/4 ... when it ran fine for that few hours it was about 3/4 full. That's why I was suspecting the hose on the internal fuel pump.
thanks for the input

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 02 Jun 2011, 17:54

I've decided to replace both fuel pumps and have them on order through IPD. I also got the handy dandy bung wrench. Don't give up the ship!!!

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 07 Jun 2011, 12:00

Replaced in-tank fuel pump and the main fuel pump. No leaks... it runs... and only one code from the OBD 232 (with out check engine light on). So far so good.....

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 14 Jun 2011, 14:33

Problems again.... I had taken the car for a short trip and on the way back it started to lose power. Check codes and it showed 231 232 221 and 113. I thought changing out the fuel pumps might of did the trick but it didn't ..... Hum..????

russellengineering · Post by **russellengineering** » 14 Jun 2011, 22:44

Hi Broke Wagon,

I was reading your codes and going through the copy of the 940 code tables I had printed out from the top of the forum.

MAF keeps coming up on all those codes. When your engine starts acting rought, does it run better if the MAF is unplugged?

Intake leak pops up also in all the codes. I was checking your maintenance list and did not see any mention of cleaning the throttle body and putting on a new gasket. That could be a good idea no matter what else is wrong. I think you said you had checked all the vacuum lines as well right?

Just some ideas late at night. Good luck!

Dave

broke wagon · Post by **broke wagon** » 15 Jun 2011, 06:58

Hi Dave,
I did clean the throttle body and adjust the throttle position sensor, but I used the old gasket. I'll have to replace the gasket with a new one. The vacuum lines look good as well.
I have not tried to unplug the MAF when it's running rough. If I do unplug the MAF and it runs better is that an indication that the MAF needs to be replaced? When I got the car the air filter was missing and the MAF was really dirty. I was thinking of replacing it next.
Thanks for the input.