SeaFoam b-4 oil Change?

teamcrossworks · Post by **teamcrossworks** » 12 Jul 2011, 20:35

Has anyone tried using SeaFoam oil additive before an oil change?

I've read good and bad things but the claim is: it helps clean gunk off the internals before an oil change.

With 92,000 + I was thinking it might be a good idea.

Post by **JRL** » 12 Jul 2011, 20:39

Seafoam in general works well with Volvos

Post by **JDS60R** » 12 Jul 2011, 21:37

I have not had any problems with it hurting anything. It does clean out some of the contaminants but not as much as a high quality engine oil flush. I put it in and let the car run 20 minutes and then flush it as I do not like running a motor under load with thinned oil.

After a flush I always change the oil and filter. I also suggest a second oil change in about 1000 miles to help remove any flush that was stuck in a corner of the engine that did not drain as well as any residual sludge/contaminants that let go shortly after the new oil went in.

Post by **tjts1** » 13 Jul 2011, 09:15

DO NOT USE SEAFOAM!

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13217

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Jul 2011, 09:40

I've used it 3x and my car hasn't blown up yet.

What JD said - I do some in the oil and intake and then change the oil 100 miles/a few days afterwards. The last time I used it, my car didn't even smoke that much afterwards, but I think it does a good job of cleaning the carbon and built-up crud out of the cylinders and oil passages.

Post by **tjts1** » 13 Jul 2011, 15:53

jblackburn wrote:I've used it 3x and my car hasn't blown up yet.

I smoked pot 3X without ruining my life. It doesn't mean other people should do the same. Are you going to pay for his engine if he screws it up?

If you really feel the need to remove carbon from your combustion chamber use water in the same method as seafoam. It does the exact same thing and its much cheaper.

dbm123 · Post by **dbm123** » 13 Jul 2011, 16:01

Seafoam has worked great for me... Just follow the instructions...

Post by **jblackburn** » 13 Jul 2011, 16:20

^this. The only thing id change is don't suck it in to the point where the engine stalls as it says on the can. Let it keep running and just suck in a tiny bit at a time and let it get back to a smooth idle again before repeating.

Gm top engine cleaner is another product that works well.

Maybe you should try the pot again. Might help you chill out a bit today. Personally I'd never put WATER that doesn't burn or compress in my cylinders.

Post by **tjts1** » 13 Jul 2011, 16:47

jblackburn wrote: Maybe you should try the pot again. Might help you chill out a bit today. Personally I'd never put WATER that doesn't burn or compress in my cylinders.

Plenty of forced induction engines use water for internal cooling and knock suppression on a regular basis. I don't think anybody is doing that with Seafoam yet. Why would you even consider pouring this snake oil down into your combustion chamber at the risk of damaging the engine?

Post by **JDS60R** » 15 Jul 2011, 21:42

With water and Seafoam having the same inability to compress both could hydrolock and damage an engine quickly. SeaFoam and water have both been used successfully to remove carbon. Water is less of a top end lubricant than Seafoam. SeaFoam is a lubricant with a mild detergent. SeaFoam's lubricating capability gives it merit over water. On the other hand, the latent heat of evaporating water is extremely strong. Both will work if applied properly.

Because the directions are lacking on the Seafoam bottle many users do harm their engine by applying it too fast. What they should tell you is that by using it properly in your gasoline you will get very similar results and can avoid hydrolock all together. There are no directions with water and many people have hyrolocked a motor while trying to clean the combustion chambers with water. Using water solely is not the ideal liquid for long term use in controlling knock where a proper intercooler can not be fitted. Most of the injection systems will use a chemical mix of water and methanol.

For top end combustion cleaning I use a different product and I do introduce it through the injector/fuel system so the injector gets cleaned as well as the valves and combustion chamber. I do soak piston tops with seafoam when changing plugs.

According to the manufacturer - no snakes were harmed in the making of SeaFoam or water. (Joke)