Locating Flame Trap Box/Breather system
Locating Flame Trap Box/Breather system
I am looking to find a picture or sopmething showing where this part is on a 2002 S60. I had the dealer tell me that I need to replace it but can not afford the labor cost so I have a buddy that is going to help me get it done. Thanks for anything you can do to help.
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
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This is not something that "your buddy will help with" if he's not a mechanic
Most of it is halfway inside the engine. You need to remove the intake manifold. This is not a job to tackle unless you're a fairly competant mechanic as it has to be done correctly.
Not a hunt and peck deal here
Retail the parts (plural) alone range from $175 (aftermarket) to nearly $300 (OEM Volvo parts)
Most of it is halfway inside the engine. You need to remove the intake manifold. This is not a job to tackle unless you're a fairly competant mechanic as it has to be done correctly.
Not a hunt and peck deal here
Retail the parts (plural) alone range from $175 (aftermarket) to nearly $300 (OEM Volvo parts)
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
yeah...i understand my buddy is a mechanic and a pretty good one he just has never heard of a flame trap box like the dealer told me... I found out it is part of the breather system so we are looking to replace it ourselves. Thanks for anything you can do to help.
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DGM
- Posts: 459
- Joined: 23 December 2010
- Year and Model: V70 2.4i 2005
- Location: Quebec, Canada
- Been thanked: 3 times
Basically you have to remove the turbo air pipe, ETM and the complete air intake manifold. It is easier said than done but within the reach of a good mechanic with documentation
.
Find here a DIY of the forum on this issue covering older models which are similar.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487
Find also a generic view of parts involved under the intake manifold.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... gory_id/63
Since you are there make sure you clean up the piping and the banjo bolt itself.
See page 7 of the following document.
This will restore system draw.
Find here a DIY of the forum on this issue covering older models which are similar.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487
Find also a generic view of parts involved under the intake manifold.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... gory_id/63
Since you are there make sure you clean up the piping and the banjo bolt itself.
See page 7 of the following document.
This will restore system draw.
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
That's not for a P2
You're missing the ling, complicated pipe, the one that costs over $100
To the OP;
This is a flat rate 5 hour job.
For an expert Volvo mechanic it takes about 2.
There are other things to look for when doin this.
One pipe goes into theoil pan, if blocked you need to clean it.
Sometimes it's so bad it doesn't budge, then you have to knock it into the oil pan.
If that happens you need to run karosene through it and immediately change the oil.
Hopefully it's still soft and you can pull the sludge with a needle nose pliars
You're missing the ling, complicated pipe, the one that costs over $100
To the OP;
This is a flat rate 5 hour job.
For an expert Volvo mechanic it takes about 2.
There are other things to look for when doin this.
One pipe goes into theoil pan, if blocked you need to clean it.
Sometimes it's so bad it doesn't budge, then you have to knock it into the oil pan.
If that happens you need to run karosene through it and immediately change the oil.
Hopefully it's still soft and you can pull the sludge with a needle nose pliars
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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DGM
- Posts: 459
- Joined: 23 December 2010
- Year and Model: V70 2.4i 2005
- Location: Quebec, Canada
- Been thanked: 3 times
The exploded view of the breather box provided is to show its location as per OP request. It is a generic view.
The part JRL refers to is the odd shape pipe in the following picture. It is generally cleaned up in the process of replacing the breather box on these models.
There is replacement kits available if you want to change it all. The following is an example.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4989/2e8 ... 2002-turbo
I gave you reference to the excellent DYI for older models. It is giving you an idea of the work involved and what to look for generally.
However after more research I came up with this interesting write up on PCV cleaning. This one is applicable to the model year you have even though it is for a V70 turbo. Middle of the page under PCV.
Read it carefully you have there what you need to plan and execute the job.
http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/engine.htm
Good work
,
The part JRL refers to is the odd shape pipe in the following picture. It is generally cleaned up in the process of replacing the breather box on these models.
There is replacement kits available if you want to change it all. The following is an example.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4989/2e8 ... 2002-turbo
I gave you reference to the excellent DYI for older models. It is giving you an idea of the work involved and what to look for generally.
However after more research I came up with this interesting write up on PCV cleaning. This one is applicable to the model year you have even though it is for a V70 turbo. Middle of the page under PCV.
Read it carefully you have there what you need to plan and execute the job.
http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/engine.htm
Good work
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 1 December 2014
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
- Been thanked: 207 times
The Flame Trap or Breather box is the main component of Volvo's PCV system. It is basically a plastic canister with some internal baffling. Its purpose is to remove the vaporized oil that is in the crankcase and send it back to the oil pan rather than into the air. It is located under the intake manifold on the lower passenger side of the engine. Right under the coolant/thermostat port. It has two connections that go into the block and some hoses on the top. It is not a difficult job, but look over the various write ups others have provided and maybe watch some videos so you know what you are getting into. If I recall the main tool you will use is a 10mm socket, a 17mm box wrench and a torx screw remover. Removing the fuel components is the most problematic piece of the process, but sometimes everything come off easy.
Just read the various write ups and you will learn the special tricks and problems. If your car is not a turbo it will be easier.
Here is a recent post by a forum member which shows the gunk that needs to be cleared from the block. Your case could be better or worse.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=86173
I like to use a pick and vacuum to keep the crud from getting pushed back. If you have build up you need to clean it out or the new parts will do nothing as the blockage is still in the block. I usually use carb cleaner and gas to flush the last pieces out of the block and pan and follow up with more gas to wash any chunks into the oil pan. It is flammable so be smart. Collect it with your used oil and send it to recycling.
If you and your mechanic friend familiarize yourself with the suggestions others provided you will have no issues. Once the intake is removed everything will be right there and straight forward.
For parts, check the site sponsors and look for their kits. They contain most of the parts you need. Purchase new Oetiker clamps before hand as you will not find them easily locally.
Just read the various write ups and you will learn the special tricks and problems. If your car is not a turbo it will be easier.
Here is a recent post by a forum member which shows the gunk that needs to be cleared from the block. Your case could be better or worse.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=86173
I like to use a pick and vacuum to keep the crud from getting pushed back. If you have build up you need to clean it out or the new parts will do nothing as the blockage is still in the block. I usually use carb cleaner and gas to flush the last pieces out of the block and pan and follow up with more gas to wash any chunks into the oil pan. It is flammable so be smart. Collect it with your used oil and send it to recycling.
If you and your mechanic friend familiarize yourself with the suggestions others provided you will have no issues. Once the intake is removed everything will be right there and straight forward.
For parts, check the site sponsors and look for their kits. They contain most of the parts you need. Purchase new Oetiker clamps before hand as you will not find them easily locally.
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